French Jewelry Maker’s Marks

Aucoc
Paris
France
e.1821
Aucoc on AJU

Specialties

Founders

  • Aucoc, Casimir e.1821 La Maison Aucoc
  • Louis s.1854
  • Louis Aucoc Fils e.1877

1821

  • La Maison Aucoc founded by Casimir Aucoc.
  • Specialty – Silversmithing

1854

  • Louis succeeded Casimir

1876

1877

  • Louis Took over the firm of Lobjois.
  • Active in the societies, committees and juries.

c.1899

  • Created floral Art Nouveau jewels.
  • Chased gold.
  • Gold and enamel.
  • Enamels with precious stones.
  • Carved horn.

c.1900

  • André Aucoc took over the firm and returned the emphasis to silversmithing.

1932

  • Death of Louis Aucoc.
Auger, Alphonse
Paris
France
e.1862

Specialties

  • Began his career as a gem-setter.

1862

  • Alphonse Auger forms his first company La Maison Auger

1864-1870

  • Worked for major retailers along with Gabriel Falguières.

1895

  • Son, George, enters the firm.

1900

  • George takes over the firm.

Style

  • Art Nouveau
  • Created fine jewels and presentation objects.

 

Bapst and Falize
Paris
France
1880-1892

Specialties

  • Combined Bapst’s French royal jewelry tradition & Falize’s Grand Prize & Legion of Honor at the 1878 Paris Exhibition

Partnership

  • Germain Bapst (fl.1875-1895)
  • Lucien Falize (1838-1897)
Bapst, Maison
Paris
France
e.1752

Specialties

1752

  • Georges-Michel Bapst (1718-1770) Succeeded his Father-in-Law, Georges-FrédéricStras, as Orfevre-joaillier du Roi.

1761-1770

  • Georges-Michael fils apprenticed to Pierre-André Jacquemin, a royal jeweler.

1771

  • Georges-Michael fils, succeeded George-Michael.

1797

  • Jacques Bapst married into the Menière family (owners of Boehmer and Bassange, former jewelers to Marie Antoinette.)
  • Eventually, Constant and Charles-Frédéric (Jacques sons) joined the company Remodelling the Napoleonic regaila for Louis XVIII.
  • Made coroation regaila for Charles X.
  • Charles-Frédéric’s nephew, Alfred joined the firm and became the workshop director (a position he held for 50 years).

1867

  • Exhibited redesigned crown jewels created for Empress Eugéne at the 1867 Exposition.

1871

  • Jules and Paul (Charles-Frédéric’s sons) and Alfred take over the business.

1880

 

Becker, Edmond-Henri
Paris
France
b.1871

Specialties

  • Sculptor, Woodcarver, Medallist & Jeweler

Designed for

  • Boucheron
  • Much of his work for Boucheron was produced by Ferdinand Verger and chased by Paul Richard.
  • Many Art Nouveau jewelers favored his designs.
  • Participated in the Paris Salons and was praised in the art journals of the day.
Belperron, Suzanne
Paris
France
(1900 - 1983)
Belperron
Belperron

Specialties

  • Carved Rock Crystal, Chalcedony & Agate
  • Swirled motifs
  • Jeweler to the stars & Duke & Duchess of Windsor
  • Jewelry Typically not Signed. Sometimes with Manufacturer’s Mark for Groëné et Darde.

1925

  • Boivin

1933

  • Maison Herz

Post World War II

  • Herz-Belperron

1974

  • Suzanne Belperron Retired

1999

  • Archives and Designs purchased by Ward Landrigan.

2007

  • Archives of Belperron’s work, rediscovered in 2007 by Olivier Baroin, allow authentication of her work by comparison to the meticulous records, models and drawings contained within.

 

Boivin, René
Paris
France
e. c.1890
Boivin

René Boivin

Specialties

  • Use of Uncommon combinations of materials: i.e. wood and pearls
  • Bold use of colored gemstones
  • Large bold striking designs
Borrel, Alfred
France
b.1836

Alfred Borrel

Specialties

  • Sculptor
  • Medallist

Member

  • Darmstadt Artists’ Colony c.1899
Bottée, Louis Alexandre
Paris
France
1852-1941

Louis Alexandre Bottée

Specialties

  • Sculptor
  • Medallist 1890-1900
  • Studied at the Paris Ecole des Beaux Arts.

Designer jewelry plaques and medals.

Boucheron
Paris
France
e.1858 - current
Boucheron
Boucheron

Boucheron

Specialties

  • Worked in both joaillerie and bijouterie.
  • Hired local artists to render designs.
  • Art Nouveau Designs
  • Dress Clips

1830

  • Frédéric Boucheron (1830-1902) born in Paris.

1858

  • Established his first boutique in the Galerie de Valois

1866

  • Workshop established.
  • Lacy gold metalwork.
  • Faultless Craftsmanship.

Innovative use of unusual materials

1866-1928

  • FB Maker’s Mark in Lozenge depicted below.

1867

  • Exhibited at the World Exhibitions. Awarded a gold medal for jewelry in 1867 at the Universal Exhibition, Paris.

1878

  • First Prize at the Universal Exhibition, Paris.

1887

  • Boucheron is the only French jeweler to participate in the acution of the French Crown diamonds.

1889

  • Universal Exhibition, Paris marked the introduction of the point d’interrogationnecklace.

1893

  • First jeweler to move to Place Vendôme.

1900

  • Gold medal at the Universal Exhibition, Paris.
  • Noted as one of the forerunners of Art Nouveau.

1902

  • Death of Frédéric Boucheron.
  • Succeeded by Louis, his son.

1909

  • Louis goes to India for the first of many influential trips.

1921

  • Creates Queen Mother Elizabeth’s favorite diadem.

1930

  • Boucheron is named Curator and Guardian of the Imperial Treasure of Persia.

c.1930s-40s

Designers

  • Jules Debut – 1858 to 1879
  • Octave Loeuillard – 1865 to 1875
  • Louis Rault – 1868 to 1875
  • Paul Legrand – 1863 to 1892
  • Auguste Bugniot – 1890 to ?
  • Lucien Hirtz – 1893 to 1925
  • Edmond-Henri Becker, sculptor & woodcarver.