American Jewelry Maker's Marks

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A

Aletto Bros

Aletto Bros.svg

Aletto Bros
USA
Naples, New York
19 cen. e.1964

Specialties

  • Contemporary interpretations of historic jewels.
  • Masterful use of Invisible Setting

c.1900

  • Special Jewel for the Exposition Universalle to commemorate the inauguration of the Eiffel Tower.


Alling & Co.

Alling & Co Maker's Mark.jpg

Alling & Co.
USA
Newark NJ
c.1837

Specialties

  • Manufacturing Jewelers
  • Alling, Hall & Dodd.
  • Isaac A. & J. C. Alling, c. 1884.
  • Isaac A. Alling & Company c. 1881.
  • Alling & Company c. 1896.

Manufactured gold jewelry for:


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Alvin Corporation

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Alvin Corporation
USA
e.1886

Specialties

  • Manufacturers

1928


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The Art Silver Shop

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The Art Silver Shop
USA
Chicago, IL
e.1912-34

Specialties

Started as the Chicago Art Silver Shop c.1912-1917.

Founders

  • Edmund Boker
  • Ernest Gould
  • Boker also worked at Lebolt.

Became the Art Silver Shop c.1918-1934.

  • Art Metal Studios 1934 -?
  • Focus changed to wholesale jewelry.


Art Silver Shop The1.svg

Averbeck & Averbeck

MJ Averbeck Discontinued1.svg

Averbeck & Averbeck
USA
Maiden Lane, New York
1912-34

Specialties

  • Jewelers
  • Floral Brooches & Buckle.
  • Silver, Gilt & German Silver.

1900

  • Manufacturer of Art Nouveau fashion jewelry.
  • Noted for their silver "Gibson Girl" and "Flor-a-Dora" brooches.

c.1904

  • M.J. Averbeck
  • Specializing in gold rings.


M J Averbeck Discontinued2.svg M J Averbeck On Cards.svg

B

Bailey, Banks & Biddle

Bailey Banks and Biddle1.png

Bailey, Banks & Biddle
USA
Philadelphia PA
e. 1832

Specialties

Founders
Bailey, Banks & Biddle
Joseph T. Bailey c.1832 Bailey & Co.
Partners Joseph T. Bailey II, George W. Banks & Samuel Biddle c.1878

  • Manufacturing jewelers.
  • Diamond dealers.
  • Jewelers to prominent Americans.
  • America's oldest jeweler.
  • Civil War swords.
  • Mortuary Medal for Abraham Lincoln.
  • Medal of Honor.
  • Purple Heart, Silver & Bronze Stars.
  • Floral jewelry with semi-precious colored stones.


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Bailey & Co.

Bailey & Co.svg

Bailey & Co.
USA
Philadelphia PA
e.1832

Specialties

  • Bailey & Co. was the first American firm to use the higher British standard of .925 silver instead of the lower .900.


Jabez Baldwin

Baldwin Jabez.svg

Jabez Baldwin
USA
e.1813

Specialties

  • Gold and Silversmith

1813

  • Acquired John McFarlane’s business

1822

  • John J. Low apprenticed with Baldwin and became partner

1822-1840

  • Many partnerships


Ball, Black & Company

Ball Black & Co1.svg

Ball, Black & Company
USA
New York
e.1839

Specialties

  • One of the firms involved in the “Diamond Wedding”
  • Specializing in rare gems.


Ball Black & Co3.svg Ballblack.jpg


Beattie & Sons

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Beattie & Sons
c.1884
Cleveland
• Jewelry until 1906
• Dealt exclusively with fine Jewels.
Founder
&bull Hugh W. Beattie
• Canadian Jewelry & Watchmaker.
1884
• Moved to Cleveland.
1890
• Purchased Baxter & Craig and moved downtown.
1906
• Having eliminated jewelry stock, became exclusively gemstone dealers.
1916
• Son Milton's window displays, creating pictures using only tiny gems, won world acclaim until his death in 1998.
1917
• Brother George opened a jewelry firm.
1926
• H.W. Beattie's firm Firm incorporated with 3 sons.
1959
• Death of George Beattie.
• Beattie & Sons acquired his business and added it to their own.


Belais

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Belais
USA
e. c.1900

Specialties

  • First to use White Gold in Jewelry in the United States

1917

  • Patented a white gold formula


John O. Bellis

Bellis John.svg

John O. Bellis
USA
d.1943

Specialties

  • Silversmith



James Bennett

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
James Bennett
c.1768
New York
• Ladies shoe buckles, earrings, hair pins and egrets, seals, necklaces, combs, lockets, buttons and mourning rings with hairwork.


Bippart & Co.

Bippart Griscom & Osbory.svg

Bippart & Co.
USA
Newark
e.1880

Specialties


Bippart-&-griscom.jpg

Black, Starr & Frost

Black Starr & Frost.svg

Black, Starr & Frost
USA
e.1801

Specialties

Cortlandt W. Starr - (1833-1888)

Prestigious jewelers

  • Cortlandt Starr - distinguished during the Civil War - turned jewelry maker.
  • Small versions of European style diamond jewelry items, bows, flowers, leaves, etc.

1801

  • Marquand & Paulding, Savannah Georgia.

1810

  • Establishment in New York as Marquand and Co.

1939

  • Ball, Thomkins and Black.

1851

1876

  • B, S & F moved to 251 Fifth Ave NY.
  • Cortland Starr & Aaron Frost became partners Black, Starr & Frost.

1920

  • Black, Starr & Gorham.

1929 - 1966

  • Merged with Gorham.


Black Starr & Frost Makers Mark.jpg Blackstarmark.jpg

Porter George Blanchard

Blanchard Porter.svg

Porter George Blanchard
USA
1886-1973

Specialties

  • Silversmith


Frank S. Boyden Company

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Frank S. Boyden Company
USA
Madison, WI
1861-1943

Specialties

  • Joined with Fred C. Minuth to form Boyden-Minuth in 1918.


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Boyden-Minuth Company

Boyden Minuth Co1.svg

Boyden-Minuth Company
USA
Chicago, IL
c.1918-?

Specialties

  • Frank Boyden & Fred Minuth

c.1920s

  • Made gold and platinum jewelry with gemstones.

1918-1950s

  • Noted for it's Silver Trophies.


Boyden Minuth Co3.svgPedro Boregaard Jewelry Maker's Mark


Boston Arts and Crafts Society

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Boston Arts and Crafts Society
e.1897

Boston
Members
Elizabeth Copeland
• Margaret Rogers
• Margaret Vant
• Frank Gardiner Hale
• Josephine Hartwell Shaw
• Edward Everett Oakes
• Gilbert Oakes
Arts and Crafts Institute with a focus on jewelry making


James Boyer

Daniel Boyer 1.svg

James Boyer
USA
Boston MA
1700-1741

Specialties

  • Jeweler and stone setter.


Daniel Boyer 2.svg Daniel Boyer 3.svg

Edward H. Breese

Edward Breese.svg

Edward H. Breese
USA
Chicago, IL
e.c.1921-1940

Specialties

  • English born worked in Chicago.
  • Kalo style jewelry & metalwork.


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Charles Oliver Bruff

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Charles Oliver Bruff
USA
Maiden Lane, New York
e.c.1763

Specialties

  • Employed an English jeweler skilled in diamond and enamel work. They produced enameled lockets and hair plaited lockets.
  • Began to do lapidary work. This practice was frowned upon by Great Britain as they wanted the colonies to import products from them, not produce any of their own. This was the beginning of a national interest in manufacturing in the colonies.
  • Their lapidary produced seals with heraldic, arms, crests, figures, etc. to sell to customers as well as to other jewelers.
  • During the Revolution they made swords and other military items.


C

William Cario

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
William Cario
(1712-1769)
e. 1735
Boston
• Goldsmith and Jeweler


Caldwell & Bennett

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Caldwell & Bennett
e.1830s
J. E. Caldwell and James M. Bennett
Philadelphia
1868
• Renamed J.E. Caldwell
• Chosen by Godey’s Lady’s Book to create the jewelry sold to subscribers through the magazine.


J.E. Caldwell Co.

JE Caldwell & Co.svg

J.E. Caldwell Co.
USA
Chestnut Street, Philadelphia
e.1839

Specialties


JECaldwell Maker's Mark.jpg Jec1.jpg Jec2.jpg

Campbell Metcalf Silver Co.

Campbell Metcalf Silver Co1.svg

Campbell Metcalf Silver Co.
USA
e.1892

Specialties

  • Silversmith
  • Manufacturers

Designer

  • Ernest W. Campbell


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Carence Crafters

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Carence Crafters
USA
Chicago, IL

Specialties

  • Mostly work in copper, brass or silver wash, styled after designs depicted in craft manuals.
  • Specialized in acid etched designs.
  • Whimsical themes including fruits & vegetables.


Carter, Gough & Co.

Carter Howe & CO.svg

Carter, Gough & Co.
USA
Newark
e.1841

Specialties

  • One of the largest jewelry producing factories in the world.

1850s

  • The first to use a steam engine to produce jewelry.


Cartergough.jpg

Cartier

CARTIER1.svg

Cartier
France
Paris
e.1847

Specialties

1847

  • Founded by Louis François Cartier.

1852

1856

  • Princess Mathilde became a customer.

1872

  • Son, Alfred, joined the firm.

1873

  • Egyptian Revival pushed Cartier to the pinnacle of the world of jewelry.

1902

  • London branch established.

1904

  • Royal Warrant: King Edward VII, England.
  • Royal Warrant: King Alfonso XIII, Spain.
  • Queen Alexandra of England wears the Resille necklace.

1905

  • Royal Warrant: King Carlos I of Portugal.

1906

  • Production in the Art Deco style began.

1908

  • Royal Warrant: King Paramindr Maha Chulalongkorn, Siam

1909

  • New York branch opens
  • Royal Warrant: King George I, Greece

1910

1913

  • First Mystery Clock

1914

  • Royal Warrant: Duke Philippe d'Orleans

1917

  • Two strands of natural pearls traded for mansion at 653 Fifth Avenue.

1921

  • Royal Warrant: King Edward VIII.

1924

  • Trinity Ring and Bracelet.

1933

  • Jeanne Toussaint The Panther became Director of Fine Jewelry.

1936

  • Royal Warrant: Prince Louis II, Monaco.

1942

  • Caged Bird Jewel

1944

  • Freed Bird Jewel
  • Panther Brooch ordered by the Duchess of Windsor.

1969

1970

  • Love bracelet.

1997

  • 150th anniversary.


CARTIER2.svg CARTIER3.svg CARTIER4.svg Cartier Makers Mark.jpg Cartier Maker's Mark 1.jpg Cartier Makers Mark 2.jpg

The Cellini Shop

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The Cellini Shop
USA
Chicago, IL
e.1914

Specialties

  • Founded by Ernest Gerlach.
  • Produced tableware styled like Kalo

1916-1919

  • Mulholland Bros. produced their flatware.

Jewerly designed by

  • Wilhelmina Coultas
  • Mabel Favinger

Executed by

  • William W. Conrad

1969


Cellini Craft Co.

Cellini Shop1.svg

Cellini Craft Co.
USA
Chicago, IL
e.1934

Specialties

  • Founded by Walter Gerlach & Hans Gregg
  • Created jewelry and tableware, noted for their use of an aluminum alloy "Argental."
  • Jewelry and silverware.

1957

  • Cellini Craft purchased by Julius Randahl.
  • Cellini Craft and Cellini Shop were separated.

1965

  • Patterns and rights to "Argental" were sold to Reed & Barton.


Charlton & Co.

Charlton & Co Makers Mark.jpg

Charlton & Co.
USA
New York
1909

Specialties

Currently

  • Grant A. Peacock, New York


Chicago Silver Co.

Chicago Silver Co.svg

Chicago Silver Co.
USA
Chicago, IL
e.1923-1945

Specialties

  • Silversmith
  • Manufacturer

Designer/Founder

  • Knut L. Gusafson

1945 -1964

  • Renamed Gustafson Craft.


Cipullo

Cipullo.svg

Cipullo
Italy
Rome

Specialties

  • New York workshop

Assistant Designer

  • David Webb

Designer for

  • Tiffany & Co.
  • Cartier

1969

  • Designed Love Bracelet.
  • Design Themes: Nails, Dollar Signs, Knots and Rope.



Donald Claflin

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Donald Claflin
( - 1979)
New York
Designer for
Webb
Tiffany & Co.
• Design Themes: fantasy, children's characters, fairy tales, strawberrys
Bulgari


Julius Cohen

Cohen Julius.svg

Julius Cohen
USA
New York
e.1956

Specialties

Trained by

  • Oscar Heyman & Bros.
  • Well Designed and Executed Fine Jewelry
  • Renowned for Serving Customers at Home


Cohen Julius 1.svg Cohen Julius 2.svg


Joseph Cooke

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Joseph Cooke
c. 1784
Philadelphia
• Set up a production company for the manufacture of miniatures and hairwork.


Elizabeth Copeland

Elizabeth Copeland.svg

Elizabeth Copeland
USA
1866-1957

Specialties



James Craig

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
James Craig
e.1746
Williamsburg
• George Washington was a customer, purchasing garnet earrings and mourning rings.
• Craig was pro-American, manufacturing during the time that the colonies were gearing up to separate from England.


Margaret Craver

Margaret Craver.svg

Margaret Craver
USA
b.1907

Specialties

  • Silversmith


Crosby & Morse

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Crosby & Morse
USA
Boston
c.1860

Specialties

  • Crosby was a manufacturing jewelry who also imported globally.
  • Morse was a noted gem cutter.
  • This partnership afforded their customers a wider variety of gem materials than any other store in the area.
  • Carried Byzantine mosaics and Etruscan revival jewelry.


Angela Cummings

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Angela Cummings
USA
New York
1944 -

Specialties

Designer

1984

  • Launched Angela Cummings Inc.


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D

Nehemiah Dodge

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Nehemiah Dodge
USA
Providence
1794

Specialties

  • Dodge - "Father of the Jewelry Industry in Rhode Island" (Proddow & Healy, p.12)
  • Goldsmith
  • Jeweler
  • Watch maker.
  • Dodge also manufactured a less expensive line of jewelry using plated gold.
  • Nehmiah’s uncle, Seril Dodge, is believed to have invented a process for soldering thin sheets of gold over copper using silver solder.


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Harold Lukens Doolittle

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Harold Lukens Doolittle
USA
1883-1974

Specialties

  • Craftsman
  • Brasswork


George Dorwig

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George Dorwig
USA
Baltimore
c.1773

Specialties


Dorwig George2.svg


Jeremiah Dummer

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Dummer, Jeremiah.svg
Jeremiah Dummer
(1645-1718)
Boston
• First American trained goldsmith.
• Specialized in mourning rings or "funeral rings" given out to mourners at a funeral.
1693
• Made the first mourning ring in America.


Dunay

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Dunay.svg
Henry Dunay
(1935 - )
e.1956
New York
• Specialty Pavé-Set Jewelry


Charles Dutens

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Charles Dutens
e.1753
Philadelphia
• Rings of every kind, earrings, seals, buckles, chains and diamond and topaz brooches.


E

Ralph Esmerian

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Esmerian
e.1890
Paris
New York
• Historically: Pioneering Colored Stone Cutting


F

Fessenden & Co.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty

Fessenden & Co..svg

Stamped Mark
Fessenden & Co.
1858-1922
American
• Silversmith
• Manufacturer


Flato

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Flato.svg
Flato Maker's Mark.jpg
Flato
(1900 - 1999)
New York
Beverly Hills
Mexico City
1920s
• New York
• Designers included Adolph Kleaty, George Headley and Fulco di Verdura
• Whimsical Jewelry "Say it in Jewelry"
1937
• Beverly Hills Location Serving Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich and others
1970
• Mexico City


Fletcher & Gardiner

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Fletcher & Gardiner.svg


Fandg1.jpg
Fletcher & Gardiner
e.1808
Boston
Philadelphia
• Manufactured miniature settings, watch chains, tortoiseshell combs, hairwork, seals and keys.
• Known for their high quality presentation pieces.
• Imported a full line of jewelry and silver goods from Europe.

A. Fogliati

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
A. Fogliati


Chicago, IL
USA
• Metalsmith & Instructor, Hull House.
• Worked in metal and enamel and was a "Master Craftsman" at Hull House.


Forest Craft Guild

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty

Forest Craft Guild.svg

Forest Craft Guild
(1879-)
e.1905
Grand Rapids, MI
USA
• Forest Emerson Mann, Founder.
• Taught Arts & Crafts classes in Dayton OH.
• Founded the Miami Pottery.
1902
• Jewelry Studio, Grand Rapids, MI.
1905
• Founded Forest Craft Guild.
Style
• Hammered
• Etched
• Applied Patina (usually verdigris)
Repousse
Materials
Gemstones (Opal, Coral, Pearls, Amber, Mother-of-Pearl, etc.
• Venetian Enamel
• German "Silver" & Sterling Silver
• Overall a rougher, more primitive style than most other Arts & Crafts designs.
• Possible exchange of designs and metalwork with Stickley Brothers.

Louis E. Fougeray

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Fougeray Maker's Mark.jpg
Louis E. Fougeray
(1892 -1955)
e.1933
730 Fifth Avenue
New York, NY
• Gem expert.
• Began his career at Marcus & Co. working his way from errand boy to Vice President.


Fred

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Fred.svg
Fred
e.1936
Paris
Beverly Hills
Houston
New York
Geneva
Tokyo
Hong Kong
Cannes
Monte Carlo
Seoul
Pearls and Colored Gemstones
• Celebrity Clients


Carvin French

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Carvin French
e.1954
New York
• Manufacturing for the Finest Jewelers
Verdura
• Donald Claflin
• R. Esmerian, Inc.
Yard
• French Trained Jewelers
• Master enamelists
Lapidary
Carved Gems for
• Donald Claflin
Angela Cummings


Clemens Friedell

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty

Friedell, Clemens1.svg
Friedell, Clemens2.svg

Chased & Stamped Signature
Clemens Friedell
1872-1963
American
• Silversmith
• Metalworker

G

Mary Gage

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty

Mary Gage Lillian Pines1.svg

Mary Gage
(1898-1993)

New York, NY
USA
• Silversmith
• As part of an eclectic lifestyle, Mary Gage made silver jewelry with a Chinese influence.
Themes
• Applied Lilly Pads
• Balls
• Leaves
• Turquoise & opaque gems


Galt Bros.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Galt Bros1.svg
Galt Bros2.svg
Galt Bros3.svg
Galt Bros.
c. 1800
Washington DC
• Pistols, swords, silverware, jewelry and medals.


Frances MacBeth Glessner

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Frances Glessner.svg
Frances MacBeth Glessner
1847-1922)
c.1904-1915

Chicago, IL
USA
• Silversmith
• Student of Madeline Wynne
• Student of A. Fogliati of Hull House.
• A wealthy socialite who studied metalwork as a hobby.
• Made bowls, ink stands, jars, hat pins and necklaces.


Charles Goodyear

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Charles Goodyear
e.1839
• Discovered the process for vulcanizing rubber. This led to the ability to create two part molds for the jewelry industry.


Gorham Manufacturing

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty

Jgorham.jpg
Gorham Manufacturing1.svg
Gorham Manufacturing2.svg
Gorham Manufacturing3.svg
Gorham Manufacturing4.svg
Gorham Manufacturing5.svg

Stamped Mark
Jabez Gorham
e.1806
J. Gorham & Son
e.1841
Gorham Manufacturing
e.1831
Providence RI
USA
Jabez Gorham (1792-1869)
• Apprentice to Nehemiah Dodge
• Clock and watch maker
• Goldsmith
• Jeweler
• Gold beads, earrings, pins, rings and “French” filigree.
• Gorham chain
• 1st to wholesale jewelry in America
J. Gorham & Son
• Manufactured household items in silver.
Gorham Manufacturing Company
• Manufacturers
Designers
• William Christmas Codman
• Ernest W. Campbell
E. Magnussen
c.1865
• Using steam power they revolutionized silver production in America.
• Mass produced silverware.
c.1890
• Attempted to follow the English craft revival movement.
• Special design group was established.
• Lead by English silversmith William Codman.
• Produced jewelry and silverwork in the crafts tradition.
Martelé
• Silver & Jewelry in the Art Nouveau style by Gorham.


Greenleaf & Crosby

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Greenleaf & Crosby1.svg
Greenleaf & Crosby2.svg
Greenleaf & Crosby
e.1867
Jacksonville
• Florida souvenirs and jewelry.
1887
• St. Augustine - Alacazar.
1895
• Palm Beach – Royal Poinciana Hotel.
1900
• Miami – Breakers & Royal Hotel.


John Paul Grimke

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
John Paul Grimke
e.1741
Charleston
• A diamond importer as well as a jeweler.
• One of the first American jewelers to offer "diamond work".


Gump's

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Gumps Maker's Mark 1.jpg
Gump’s
e.1861
San Francisco
• Evolved from selling decorative objects to the newly rich in SF to exotic items from the East including jade jewelry.

Gustafson Craft

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Gustafson Craft
e.1945-1964

Chicago, IL
USA
• Formerly Chicago Silver Co.
• Gustafson's designs had a Scandinavian influence (he trained in Stockholm.)
• Gustafson sold his dies to Spaulding & Co. who still produce his silver lines.


H

Frank G. Hale

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Hale, Frank G..svg
Frank Gardner Hale
(1876-1945)
Chicago
1906
Guild of Handicraft with C.R. Ashbee
London
• Worked with Frederick Partridge
1907
• Boston: Society of Arts and Crafts


Hammerman

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Hammerman Bros..svg
Hammerman
e. 1946
New York
• High quality well manufactured jewelry

Matthias W. Hanck

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Hanck, Matthias W.svg
Matthias W. Hanck
c.1907-1950s

Chicago, IL
USA
• Native of Chicago.
• Apprentice under R.M. Johnson (manufacturing jewelers.)
• Studied at the Art Institute and the Lewis Institute.
1907
• Worked with Clara Welles in Chicago at Kalo.
1910
• Founded The Julmat with Julius O. Randahl, Julmat lasted only 1 year.
• Simple hammered shapes.
• Hanck broke off to make jewelry.
1915
• Opened a jewelry shop in Park Ridge.
• Made Jewelry for private commissions & the T.C. Shop.
1920-1950s
• Operated from a home workshop.


Heintz Art Metal Shop

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty

Heintz Art Metal.svg

Heintz Art Metal Shop
Otto Heintz
e.1902

Buffalo, NY
USA
1902
• Opened the Art Crafts Shop.
• Made copper items with enamel decoration.
1906
• Renamed Heintz Art Metal Shop.
• Switched to bronze with sterling silver overlay and chemical patinas.
• Bowls, vases, candlesticks, etc. & jewelry.
1918
• Otto Heintz Died.
• Fred Smith, employee opened his own shop, Smith Metal Arts Co.
1930
• Closed.


E. & Co. Hinsdale

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Taylor & Hinsdale.svg
Epaphras Hinsdale

E. Hinsdale & Co.

Taylor & Hinsdale
1801
Newark
• The first production shop specifically set up to manufacture jewelry in America.
• Hinsdale supplied jewelers in Newark, Norwich, Hartford, New York, Philadelphia, Alexandria and Augusta.
• Produced gold brooches, bracelets, earrings, necklaces, chains and other goods at a price so reasonable others were able to re-sell at a profit.


Christopher Hughes and Company

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Hughes, Christopher.svg
Christopher Hughes and Company
c.1773
Baltimore
• The shop was located at the corner of Market and Gay Streets and specialized in rose and knot buckles, Macaroni shoe buckles and rings set with gemstones.
• As was common during that time, they also sold paste and marcasite jewelry.

Hull-House Shops

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Hull house shops.svg

Hull House Shops
e.1889-2012
Chicago, IL
USA
• Settlement house for recent European immigrants.
• Porvided social and educational opportunities for working class people.
Founders
• Jane Addams
• Ellen Gates Starr
Hull House Shops
• George Twose, manager
Chicago Arts & Crafts Society
Labor Museum
• Residents practiced old-country crafts.

I

International Silver Co.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
International Silver Co.1.svg

International Silver Co.2.svg
International Silver Co.3.svg

International Silver Co.
e. 1898
American
• Silversmith
• Manufacturer
• The company is a conglomeration of 16 separate companies, and the purchase of many more.

J

Louis Jaccard

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Jaccard, Louis.svg
Louis Jaccard
e.1829
St. Louis
Watches and sentimental jewelry.


James Jacks

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
James Jacks
1797-1800
Philadelphia
Gold enameled necklaces and earrings, diamond bracelets, watch chains, lockets and rings.


Robert R. Jarvie

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty

Jarvie, Robert R1..svg
Jarvie, Robert R2.svg

Cast Signature
Robert R. Jarvie
1865-1940
American
• Silversmith
• Self taught Metalworker
• Advertised himself in House Beautiful as the "Candlestick Maker."
1904
• Opened the Jarvie Shop and changed his avocation to his vocation.
c.1905-1910
• Added gold and silver to his line.
1912
• Commissioned to create trophies by the Union Stock Yard Co.
• Moved to the Old English Cottage building at the Chicago stockyards.
Assistants
John Petterson
Knut Gustafson
1920
• Closed shop and went to work for C.D. Peacock.


Jones, Ball & Poor

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty

Jones, Ball & Poor.svg
Jones, Ball & Poor 1.svg

Jonesball.jpg
Jones, Ball & Poor
e.1849
Boston
• Most advanced jewelry store in the United States.
• Separate retail and wholesale entrances.
• Vault provided for use by customers to store their goods.
• Workshop below street level.
1852
• Benjamin Shreve joined
1869
• Charles H. Crump joined and Shreve, Crump & Low was formed.

K

Kalo Shops

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty

Kalo Shops1.svg

Kalo Maker's Mark.jpg
Stamped Mark
Kalo Shops
c.1900-70
Chicago
• Workshops for Jewelry & Silverware
• Founded by Clara P. Barack
• Simple silver jewelry with natural motifs & visible hammer marks.
• Created jewelry and copper trays, desk accessories, etc. for there shop on Michigan Ave.
• Early designs were angular, later they were know for rounding edges for strength.
• Later added a full line of silver table items.
1914
• Workshop moved from the Welle's home to the shop at 32 N. Michigan Ave.
Later
• Purchased a building on Ontario Street for the shop and the workshop.
1936
• Moved to 222 S. Michigan Ave.
Designers
• Clara P. B. Welles
• George S. Wells
Apprentices
Julius Randahl
• Matthias Hanck
• Emery Todd
• Esther Meacham


Alexander Kerr

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Alexander Kerr
e.1737
Williamsburg
• A goldsmith by trade, Kerr sold jewelry and other household goods by lottery.


William B. Kerr & Co.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty

Kerr, William B. & Co..svg

Stamped Mark
William B. Kerr & Co.
1855-1906
Newark, NJ
Rhode Island (Gorham)
USA
Goldsmith
• Silversmith
• Manufacturer
• Jeweler
• Mass produced Art Nouveau styled jewelry.
• Eventually sold to Gorham.


Arthur King

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
King, Arthur.svg
Arthur King
c.1960s-70s
New York
Miami
Paris
Havana
London
• Goldsmith
Lost Wax Casting
• Naturalistic forms
Baroque pearls, gemstones and colored diamonds


Karl E. Kipp

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty

Kipp, Karl1.svg
Kipp, Karl2.svg

Stamped Initials
Karl E. Kipp
1882-1954
E. Aurora, NY
USA
• Silversmith
• Metalwork
Designer for
Roycroft Copper Shop
• Tookay Shop
1908-1912
• Joined the Roycroft Institute as a metalwork foreman.
• Kipp designed the metalwork that was then executed by a craftsperson.
1912
• Opens the Tookay Shop.
1915-1929
• Rejoins the Copper Shop.
1954
• Karl Kipp Dies.


Samuel Kirk & Son Co.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty

Kirk, Samuel L. 1.svg
Kirk, Samuel L. 2.svg

Kirk mark.jpg
Samuel Kirk
Samuel Kirk & Son Co.
e.1815
Market Street Baltimore
• Silversmith


Krementz & Co.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Krementz.jpg
Krementz & Co.
e.1866
Newark
• Inventors of the one-piece collar button, bean-and-post cuff button and bodkin clutch vest buttons and other gentleman’s jewelry.
• Became the preeminent collar button producer worldwide.
• Developed a technique for fusing gold onto base metal

L

Larter & Sons

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Larter, Elcox & Co. Old Mark.svg
Larter, Elcox & Co. Present Mark.svg
Larter.jpg
Larter & Sons
e.1865
Newark
•Specialized in gentleman’s jewelry.
1890s
• Patented a spring link for their sleeve link buttons.
1890
• Patented a spring back stud.


Lebolt & Co.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty

Lebolt1.svg
Lebolt2.svg

Lebolt-sig.jpg

Lebolt1-sig.jpg

Stamped Mark
Lebolt & Co.
J. Myer Lebolt
e.1899-?
Chicago, IL
USA
Founders
• J. Meyer Lebolt
• Nathan Lebolt
• Joseph Lebolt
• Jewelry Retailers
• Silversmiths
• Manufacturers
• Handwrought necklaces, pendants and bracelets.
Pearl and diamond jewelry.
1912
• Installed workrooms to create handwrought items for his retail outlet.
• Developed their own lines of jewelry and tableware.
• Kept approx. 25 workers employed.
• Became the House of Pearls as a volume importer.
• Discontinued metalwork c.WWII as a result of rationing.
Designer
• Edmund Boker

M

Gustav Manz

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Gustav Manz
(1865-1946)
e.1892
New York City
• Master Jewelery - Manufacturing Jeweler for the great jewelry houses.
• Noted for his animal jewelry which he often modeled from live animals.
• Other designs were often from nature: leaves, branches, reeds, flowers, etc.
• Designes from other cultures included Egyptian, Aztec, Japanese & Persian , Classical Greece & Rome.
Manufactured for
Tiffany & Co.
Marcus & Co.
Cartier
Shreve, Crump & Low
Black, Starr & Frost
Marcus & Co.
Gorham
Raymond Yard
1893
• Immigrated to the U.S. after having lived, studied and worked in Stuttgart, Manz, Paris, England and South Africa.
C.1900
• Business associations with the Bachems and Walter McTiegue.
1901 - 1903
• Offices at 41 Maiden Lane
1904
• Created jewels for F. Walter Lawrence for the Louisiana Purchase Exposition.
1922-1934
• 1 & 2 W. 47th St.
1944
• 42 W. 48th St.
2/16/1946
• Death of Gustav Manz.


Marcus & Co.

Marcus & Co Maker's Mark.jpg

Marcus & Co.
USA
Yew York, Palm Beach, London, Paris
e.1892

Specialties

Worked for

Parthered with

1884

  • Partnered with his son William.

1892

  • Marcus & Company.

1920s-30s

1962


Marcus & Co. 1.svg Marcus & Co. 2.svg Marcus & Co.svg


Herman Marcus

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Herman Marcus
1850
Marcus & Co.
New York
• Immigrated from Dresdin
• Worked for Ball, Black & Co. and Tiffany & Co.
• Connoisseur of Cameos.
1864
• Joined Theodore B. Starr
1900 Paris Exposition
Marcus & Co. featured a collection of extremely delicate plique-à-jour flowers in the French style.


Marshall Field & Company

Marshall field3.svg

Marshall Field & Company
USA
Chicago IL
c.1904-c.1950

Specialties

  • Department Store with a metalsmithing shop on the 10th floor - The Craft Shop.
  • Combined machinery and hand craftsmanship to create the contemporary "craft" styles for their customers.
  • Highly specialized workers with each step being completed by a different "specialist."

Produced

  • Tea sets
  • Desk sets
  • Tankards
  • Tableware
  • Brooches
  • Bracelets
  • Hat Pins
  • Fobs.
  • Worked mostly in brass with some silver, gold & platinum.
  • Sold metalworking kits to home hobbyists.
  • As craftsmen retired, it became increasingly difficult to find replacements.


Marshall field1.svg Marshall field2.svg Marshall Field Marks.jpg

John McFarlane

McFarlane John 1.svg

John McFarlane
USA
Boston MA
c.1769

Specialties

  • Watches and novelties
  • According to Proddow & Healy (p.12)...said by some today to be the forerunner of all jewelry establishments in America.


McFarlane John 3.svg


McTeigue & Co.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
McTeigue & Co.
e.1895
New York

• Specialty jewelry manufacturers.
• High Quality with fine designs.
Clients
Tiffany & Co.
J.E. Caldwell.
C.D. Peacock.
Black, Starr & Frost.
Shreve, Crump & Low.
1990
• McTeigue & Co. bought by Tiffany & Co.


Meriden Silver Plate Co.

Meriden Silver Plate CO..svg

Meriden Silver Plate Co.
USA
e.1869

Specialties

  • Manufacturer



Edward Moore

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Edward Moore
1851 - 1891
Director of Tiffany & Co. Silver Workshops
New York
• Award Winning Silver Designs for Tiffany & Co.
Japanesque Jewelry & Archaeological Revival Jewels


N

O

Edward Everett Oakes

Oakes Gilbert et al 1.svg

Edward Everett Oakes
USA
Boston MA
e.1917

Specialties

• Boston Arts & Crafts Society name him Master Craftsman c.1917.

Style

  • Serrated Leaf Motifs
  • Organic forms
  • Flower Blossoms
  • Wirework
  • All elements were handwrought - no casting.
  • Elaborate settings for semi-precious gems.

Maker's Mark with Acorn is for Gilbert Oaks, son of Edward.


Oakes Gilbert et al 2.svg

Old Mission Kopper Kraft

Old Mission Kopper Kraft.svg

Old Mission Kopper Kraft
USA
San Francisco CA
1922-c.1925

Specialties

  • Metalwork


David Orgell

Orgel David.svg

David Orgell
USA
Beverly Hills CA
c. late 1800s

Specialties

1800s

  • Orgell began in England as a purveyor of fine goods to the Royal Family and others.

1940s

  • Opened in Beverly Hills

1958

  • Moved to prestigious Rodeo Drive.

1989

  • David Orgell was purchased by the Soltani Family.

Today

  • Retailer of Fine Jewelry, Timepieces & Objets d’Art created under their own name as the David Orgell Collection.


Oscar Heyman & Bros.

Oscar Heyman Bros Jewelry Makers Mark.jpg

Oscar Heyman & Bros.
USA
New York NY
e.1912

Specialties

  • Handcrafted, signed and numbered jewelry pieces.
  • Unique and esoteric gemstones and phenomenal gems, cut and polished in their own workshop.

1901

  • Apprenticed with their uncle, a workmaster for Fabergé.

1906

  • The family moved to New York.
  • Skilled in platinum work, they were uniquely trained and highly desirable.

1909

  • Oscar went to work for the newly opened Cartier, New York.

1912

  • Oscar Heyman & Brothers was opened at 49 Maiden Lane.
  • Supplied high quality platinum jewelry to the trade.

Jeweler's Jeweler for

1916-1942

1969

Today:

  • Still a family run operation employing many relatives of the original team.



Ostier, Inc.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Ostier, Inc.
c.1938
New York

• Award winning jewelers.
1969
• Closed, Inventory sold by Parke-Bernet Galleries.


Otto de Parisen

De Parisian, Otto 1.svg

Otto de Parisen
USA
New York
c.1763

Specialties

  • German born jeweler known for fabulous gem-set jewelry.


De Parisian, Otto 2.svg

P

Daniel Parker

Parker Daniel.svg

Daniel Parker
USA
Boston
(1726-1785) e.1752

Specialties


C.D. Peacock Jewelry Maker's Mark

Elijah & Charles Peacock

Peacook & Co.svg

Elijah & Charles Peacock
USA
Chicago IL
e.1837

Specialties

Founder: Elijah Peacock e. 1837

  • Charles Peacock (1838-1903)
  • C.D. Peacock
  • Chicago Fine Jewelry Retailer

Historically

1837

  • Lake Street

1871

  • Randolph & Franklin destroyed in Chicago fire
  • West Madison St.
  • Washington St.

Today


Peacock CD 1.svg Peacock CD 2.svg

The Petterson Studio

Petterson Studio1.svg

The Petterson Studio
USA
Chicago IL
c.1912-1949

Specialties

  • Workshops
  • Custom tableware, silverware and religious items.

Founder

  • John Pontus Petterson

1920s

  • Added Scandinavian designs to his style.


Petterson Studio2.svg The Petterson Studios.svg

Jessie M. Preston

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Jessie M. Preston
e.1900
Chicago, IL
USA
• Used pearls, opals, abalone and bits of stone arranged into patterns for her nature inspired (often floral) jewelry designs.
1895
• Concluded studies at the Art Institute.
1900-1980
• Studio in the Fine Arts building.


Q

R

Julius Olaf Randahl

Randahl Julius Olaf1.svg

Julius Olaf Randahl
USA
Chicago IL
1880-1972

Specialties

  • Silversmith

1907-1910

  • Worked for Clara Welles.

1910

  • Created Julmat with Matthias W. Hanck, the association lasted one year.
  • Created Holloware until WWI.
  • Added Modern equipment to partially automate production.
  • Employed 15-20 craftspersons.

1930s

  • Kept the business going by mortgaging his home and cutting workers back to half time.

1950

  • The Randahl Shop
  • Included his sons Julius and E. Scott.
  • Moved the manufacturing to Skokie.

1957

  • Purchased the Cellini Craft workshop to get their experienced employees.

1963

  • Brothers bought a jewelry store.

1965

  • Reed & Barton bought their tools and dies and created a Randahl Division to continue making Randahl designs.


Randahl Julius Olaf2.svg Randahl Julius Olaf3.svg

Reed & Barton

Reed & Barton.svg

Reed & Barton
USA
e.1837

Specialties

  • Manufacturer


Paul Revere

Revere Paul 1.svg

Paul Revere
USA
Boston MA
(1734-1818) e.1760s

Specialties


Revere Paul 6.svg

Frances Richardson

Richardson Frances.svg

Frances Richardson
USA
Philadelphia PA
(1681-1729) e. 1700

Specialties


Joseph Richardson

Richardson Joseph 1.svg

Joseph Richardson
USA
Philadelphia PA New York NY
e.1757

Specialties

Founders:
Joseph Richardson
Daniel Christian Fueter
(1720-1785)
e.1757

  • Struck silver medals for presentation to the Indians during the French and Indian Wars and on other occasions.
  • Gold clasps for fastening necklaces, chatelaine hooks, gold bead necklaces, buckles, and chains were some of the popular items made by Richardson and Fueter.


Richardson Joseph 2.svg Richardson Joseph 3.svg

Riker Bros.

Riker Bros.svg

Riker Bros.
USA
Newark NJ
e.1846

Specialties

Founders:
Riker & Tay
Riker Bros.
e.1846

  • Patented processes for surface ornamentation of jewelry and an improved sash fastener.
  • Manufactured gold fob, chains and fobs.
  • Early manufacturer of Masonic jewelry.
  • Worked in plique-à-jour enamel.


Riker Bros Maker's Mark.jpg Riker.jpg

Rokesley Shop1.svg

USA
Cleveland OH
e.1904-1920

Specialties

Founders: Rokesley Shop

  • Louis Rorimer
  • Carolyn Hadlow
  • Ruth Smedley
  • Mary Blakeslee

The Name

  • Rokesley - was created using letters from the creators names.
  • Arts & Crafts silversmiths/metalsmiths.
  • Specialized in jewelry and small decorative items.
  • Enamel was a common decoration.

1904

  • Founded in Rorimer's studio.
  • Rorimer was not a silversmith, he helped establish the shop.

1912

  • Blakeslee left.

1920

  • Smedley died.


Rokesley Shop2.svg

Roycroft Copper Shop

Roycroft1.svg

Roycroft Copper Shop
USA
Aurora NY
c.1900

Specialties

  • Copper Workshops

Founder c.1893

  • Elbert Hubbard

Designers

  • Walter Jennings
  • Karl Kipp - Roycroft copper shop produced copper jewelry.
  • Dard Hunter
  • Roycroft crafts community develops and features an apprentice system.


Roycroft2.svg Roycroft3.svg

Rubel

Rubel.svg

Rubel
USA
New York London Paris
e.1943

Specialties

  • Began as a Parisian manufacturing firm, Rubel Freres, in association with Van Cleef & Arpels.

1943

  • Discontinued their affiliation with Van Cleef & Arpels and opened under their own name.

Jewelry designs

Designer

  • Maurice Duvalet (shared with VCA.)

1947

  • Closed.


Ruser

Ruser Jewelry Maker's Mark.jpg

Ruser
USA
Beverly Hills CA
e.1947 - 1969

Specialties

  • Freshwater baroque pearl Jewelry.
    • Swans.
    • Hummingbirds.
    • Poodles.
    • Skunks.
    • Cherubs.

1969

  • Closed.


Ruser Maker's Mark.jpg


John Ruskin & Charles Eliot Norton

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
John Ruskin & Charles Eliot Norton
1874
Boston MA
• First organization offering classes and lectures on the crafts.


S

Schlumberger

Schlumberger Jewelry Maker's Mark.jpg

Schlumberger
France
Paris New York
(1907-1987)

Specialties

  • Costume jewelry designer for Elsa Schiaparelli.
  • First designer at Tiffany & Co. to be able to sign his designs.

Designs

Design Elements


Seaman Schepps

Seaman Schepps Jewelry Maker's Mark.jpg

Seaman Schepps
USA
New York Palm Beach Nantucket
e.1934

Specialties

  • Had shops in Los Angeles, San Francisco and New York selling a myriad of goods.
  • Became known as an avant-garde jeweler, "America's Court Jeweler."
  • Chunky pieces with quantities of colored gemstones.
  • Maltese cross brooches, shell earrings chunky bracelets following the styles of other famous jewelers of the day.

Unusual materials

1940s-50s

  • Animal themes.
  • Celebrity & Society Clients including the Duchess of Windsor and President Franklin Delano Roosevelt.

1972

  • Seaman Schepps died.
  • Patricia Schepps Vaill, his daughter continued the tradition.

1992

  • The business was sold to Jay Bauer and Anthony Hopenhajm who continue to produce jewelry in the traditional Schepps style using the original molds and designs.


Seaman Schepps Hallmark.jpg

George W. Shiebler & Co.

Schiebler George W. & CO1.svg

George W. Shiebler & Co.
USA
Brooklyn NY
e.1876-1910

Specialties

  • Purchased Coles & Reynolds spoon makers.
  • Purchase machines, dies and designs from various concerns.

Produced

  • Flatware
  • Holloware,
  • Novelties
  • Souvenir Spoons
  • Jewelry

1907


Schiebler George W. & CO2.svg Schiebler George W. & CO3.svg


Benjamin Shreve

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Benjamin Shreve
(1813-1896)
e.1828
Saco ME
New York
• Sea captain turned jeweler.
1853 - 1869
• Many partnerships
• Small sentimental jewelry.


Shreve & Company

Shreve San Francisco.svg

Shreve & Company
USA
San Francisco
e.1852

Specialties

Founder: George Shreve (1828-1893) e.1852
1852

  • George and nephew Samuel sailed for the California gold rush.
  • Established a jewelry business upon arrival.
  • After Samuel’s death George Shreve went on to develop Shreve & Co. into the finest jewelry establishment in the west.

1906

  • Moved to the new earthquake-proof building at the corner of Post and Grant streets.
  • Silver and decorative items for the home as well as jewelry.


Shreve & Co. Makers Mark.jpg Shreve Hallmark.jpg

Shreve, Crump & Low

Arts and Craftsshop Shreve Crump & Low.svg

Shreve, Crump & Low
USA
Boston MA
e.1796

Specialties

  • Started by John McFarlane opened a silversmith workshop across the street from Paul Revere.

1858

  • William Shreve (1835-1919) joined Shreve & Co.
  • Went east to join the Ninth New York Militia and later the Second United States Sharp Shooters during the Civil War.

1869

  • William Shreve returned to Boston and formed Shreve, Stanwood & Co. which became Shreve, Crump & Low.
  • Consolidation of various firms created the name Shreve, Crump & Low.

1872

  • Store destroyed by fire.

1899

  • Davis Cup tennis trophy commissioned.

1903

  • Created the Cy Young Cup.
  • Still in business today.


Sloan & Co.

Sloan & Co. Maker's Mark.jpg

Sloan & Co.
USA
Newark NJ New York NY
e.1895

Specialties

  • High Quality Jewelry

1857

  • John Alexander Riley established Riley, Douglas & Williamson.

1887

  • Frank T. Sloan joined Carter, Sloan & Co. as an office boy.

1887

  • After working with various partners, the firm was renamed John A. Riley.

1891

  • Frank T. Sloan left Carter, Sloan & Co and, along with Allen A. McDonald, joined the business which became John A. Riley & Sloan Co.

1893

1895

  • Sloan was the remaining partner and renamed the firm Sloan & Co.

1896

  • His father, Augustus K. Sloan, retired from Carter, Sloan & Co. and joined his son at Sloan & Co.
  • Opened a New York office.

1984

  • Last time Sloan & Co. was listed in the Jewelers' Circular/Keystone Brand Name and Trademark Guide.


Peer Smed

Smed Peer2.svg

Peer Smed
USA
Brooklyn NY
1878-1943

Specialties

  • Born in Copenhagen he emigrated to Brooklyn, NY
  • Silversmith
  • Created designs reminiscent of the Jensen style
  • Jewelry designs used floral motifs, lilies were a favorite.
  • Never using gems, the beauty of Smed's jewelry came from chased details, patinas and the metal itself.

Designer

Family

  • Daughter Lona became a regarded silversmith (LPS mark) through 1940s.
  • Son Dan made jewelry with a Hollywood following. Died 1951.
    • Dan had a shop on Canon Dr. in Beverly Hills with clients such as William Randolph Hearst.


Smed Peer1.svg

E.H.H. Smith Silver Co.

Smith E.H.H Silver Co..svg

E.H.H. Smith Silver Co.
USA
c.1904-20

Specialties

  • Silversmith
  • Manufacturer


Spaulding & Co.

Spaulding Co..svg

Spaulding & Co.
USA
Chicago IL
1889

Specialties


William Spratling

Spratlling William3.svg

William Spratling
Mexico
Taxco
fl.1925-45

Specialties

  • Teacher in the Architecture Department at Tulane University.
  • Silversmith
  • Designer

1925

  • Traveled to Mexico to study Spanish Colonial architecture.
  • Made his first visit to Taxco and decided to live there.

1929

  • Moved to Mexico.
  • Invested it in a house in Taxco, near the silver mining region of Mexico.
  • Spratling created a jewelry workshop in Taxco.
  • Silver was not the usual jewelry material in Mexico and workers needed to be trained.
  • Created an apprenticeship system, training many who would later be famous in their own right.
  • Used native materials such as amethyst, turquoise and rosewood in his designs.

1935

  • Moved to a larger shop to accommodate the large number of tourists coming in on the improved roadways.
  • Sold furniture, rugs, wood and tin articles along with his silver jewelry.

1944

  • Went to Alaska at the invitation of the U.S. Department of the Interior.
  • Created 200 designs based on Alaskan motifs.
  • Trained Alaskans in Taxco and sent them back to train others.

1946

  • Spratling y Artisanos had 422 workers.
    • Hundreds of small shops were opened by men trained in Spratling workshops.

1967

  • Spratling died.
  • Alberto Ulrich purchased the estate and continued to produce jewelry under the name "Sucesores de William Spratling S.A."
  • Spratling was known throughout Mexico as the "Father of Mexican Silver."


Spratlling William1.svg Spratling-sig.jpg

Theodore B. Starr

T B Starr Maker's Mark.jpg

Theodore B. Starr
USA
John St. NY
(1837-1907) e.1864

Specialties


Starmarcus.jpg Starr Theodore.svg Starr Theodore 1.svg Starr Theodore 2.svg

Gustav Stickley

Stickley Gustav 1.svg

Gustav Stickley
USA
1858-1942

Specialties

  • Metalwork


Stickley Gustav 2.svg

Arthur J. Stone

Arthur J. Stone.svg

Arthur J. Stone
USA
1901-37

Specialties

  • Silversmith
  • Workshops


T

The T.C. Shop

TC Shop.svg

The T.C. Shop
USA
Chicago, IL
c.1910-1923

Specialties

  • Believed to be founded by Emery W. Todd & Clemencia C. Cosio.
  • Housed in the Fine Arts Building, Chicago.
  • "Hand Wrought Jewelry, Special Wedding Gifts, Etc.


Arthur Thumler

Thumler Arthur.svg

Arthur Thumler
USA
1886-1969

Specialties

  • Silversmith


Tiffany & Co.

Tiffany & Co Maker's Mark.svg

Tiffany & Co.
USA
New York NY
e.1837

Specialties

Founder: Charles Tiffany

  • Tiffany, Young & Ellis
  • Tiffany & John P. Young
  • 259 Broadway NY
  • 550 Broadway NY
  • Manufacturer

Designers:

1837

  • J.L. Ellis joined the firm

1842

  • Importing of gold jewelry from Europe for sale in America.

1847-1854

  • Importers of goods from England, France, Germany, Italy & Switzerland
  • Gold & Diamond jewelry of their own design.

1848

  • John Young in Paris took advantage of the fall of Louis Philippe and purchased the court’s jewelry and enough diamonds to keep the firm going for years to come.
  • Charles Tiffany became known as the king of diamonds.

1850

  • Paris branch opened at Rue de Richelieu

1856

  • Pieces a Hartford Connecticut historic oak tree, felled in a storm, were used by Tiffany to make patriotic carvings for jewelry.

1858

  • Tiffany bought the last, unused 20 miles of the transatlantic cable and created souvenir jewelry.
  • Office and Watch Manufacturing in Geneva, Switzerland.
  • Incorporated as a full -fledged manufacturer.

1862 Civil War

  • During the Civil War they provided Swords, uniform laces, epaulettes, ornaments and medals and badges, caps, rifles and shoes. The profits enabled Tiffany & Co. to return to making jewelry and silverware after the war as a major player.

1867 Paris Exposition

  • Tiffany won first prize for its silverware – the first ever for the United States.

1870

  • Moves to West Union Square at 15th with workshops and retail space.

1872

  • London Branch.

1878 Paris Exposition

  • Tiffany & Co. wins the Grand Prix for silverware, a gold medal for its architectural revival jewelry and 6 other medals.
  • Tiffany premiered its Mixed Metalware in the Japanese style to great acclaim.

1879

  • Tiffany Diamond
    • Tiffany & Co. purchased a 287.42 carat rough yellow diamond from South Africa and had it cut in Paris resulting in the largest flawless yellow diamond to that date.
  • Until 1880 Sole distribution of Patek Philippe & Co. in USA.

1885

  • Paulding Farnham becomes Edward Moore's assistant.

1886

  • Tiffany & Co. develops the six prong setting to hold a diamond – known ever after as the “Tiffany Setting

1887

  • Tiffany & Co. purchases 24 lots of Empress Eugenie’s diamond jewelry from the French government.

1889 Paris Exposition

  • George Kunz assembled a collection of rare minerals and gems for exhibit at the Paris Exposition along with the jewelry made by Tiffany & Co.
  • Tiffany introduces an American collection of jewelry and ornaments inspired by American art and resources such as Tennessee Pearls, Montana Sapphires Arizona Garnets, Colorado Rock Crystal, Mexican Opal.
  • Tiffany & Co.’s enamel orchids displayed at this Exposition inspired a revival of enamel jewelry.

1893 World's Coloumbian Exposition

  • Tiffany exhibited more American influenced pieces with colored stones along with internationally influenced items

1900 Paris Exposition

  • Tiffany exhibited American made jewels with American and historical motifs.


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Louis Comfort Tiffany

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Louis Comfort Tiffany
USA
New York NY

Specialties

  • Son of Charles Louis Tiffany.

1878

  • Louis C. Tiffany & Associated Artists.

1881

  • Patented opalescent window glass.

1885

  • Opened the Tiffany Glass Company.

1894

  • Patented Favrile Glass.

1900

  • Grand Prize at the International Exhibition, Paris.

c.1902

  • Went to work in the design department at Tiffany & Co.
  • First Director of Design for Tiffany & Co.

Motifs

  • Dragonfiles
  • Flowers
  • Vines
  • Mythology

Mediums

  • Enamel
  • Gemstones

1933

  • Death of Louis Comfort Tiffany.


Tiffany Studios

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Tiffany Studios
USA
1879-1936

Specialties

  • Workshop

Director

Designer

  • Julia Munson


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Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin

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Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin
USA
New York Los Angeles Miami Beach Palm Beach Beverly Hills Atlantic City Chicago Paris
c.1929-c.1950s

Specialties

  • Parisian jeweler Mauboussin opened in New York in 1929, merged with Trabert & Hoeffer following the stock market crash.
  • Popular with the Hollywood set who loved their large diamond jewelry and accessories.

1930s

  • Reflections collection of bold yellow gold and colored gemstone jewels


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Udall & Ballou

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Udall & Ballou
USA
New York Palm Beach Newport Paris
e.1888

Specialties

  • Upscale Jewelers & Retailers.


Unger Bros.

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Unger Bros.
USA
1878-1919

Specialties

  • Silversmith
  • Jeweler
  • Manufacturer
  • Started out manufacturing gold jewelry but switched to silverware and silver jewelry.

1910

1916

  • Made toilet articles.


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Dirk Van Erp Copper Shop

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Dirk Van Erp Copper Shop
USA
1908-77

Specialties

  • Metalworker

Designers

  • Dirk Van Erp
  • D'Arcy Gaw


Verdura

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Verdura
USA
New York NY
e.1939

Specialties

1926

  • Fulco moves to Paris.
  • Worked in the textile department of Chanel.
  • Produced costume jewelry for Chanel.

1935

  • Went to Hollywood, then New York and worked with Paul Flato.

1939

  • Opened his own jewelry business.

1972

  • Sold out to Joseph Alfano and retired.

1985

  • Verdura Inc. sold to Ward Landrigan.

Influences

  • Royal Jewels
  • Byzantine art
  • The Maltese cross


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R. Wallace & Sons

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R. Wallace & Sons
USA
1855-1959

Specialties

  • Silversmith
  • Manufacturer


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Wander & Co.

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Wander & Co.
USA
New York
e.1921

Specialties

  • Jewelry featuring rough, precious and semi-precious carved stones.
  • Maintained a branch in Paris during the 1960s & 1970s.


M. Waslikoff & Sons

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M. Waslikoff & Sons
USA
New York
c.1920s

Specialties

  • Diamond and platinum jewelry specialists.
  • Flexible platinum bracelets and earrings.


David Webb, Inc.

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David Webb, Inc.
USA
New York
e.1948

Specialties

  • Famous for his "Jeweled Jungle"

1948

  • David Webb and Nina Silberstein opened David Webb, Inc. in New York.

1950s-1960s

  • Bold flowers and organic forms.

1964

  • Duke of Windsor buys a frog bracelet.

1970s

  • Began producing more subtle designs to go with less flamboyant times.

1975

  • David Webb dies and the Silberstein family continued production of his iconic designs.

2010

  • Sold to Sima Ghadamian, Mark Emanuel and Robert Saidian.
    • Continuing the tradition drawing on previously unproduced designs from the extensive archives and using the original molds.
    • Gem materials and updated functional aspects (earring backs, etc.) distinguish the "old" from the "new."


William Whetcroft

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William Whetcroft
USA
Anapolis MD
c.1766

Specialties

  • Whetcroft established a policy of repairing and maintaining a customer's jewelry free of charge.


Whitehead & Hoag Co.

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Whitehead & Hoag Co.
USA
Newark NJ
e.1879

Specialties

  • Manufactured flags, banners, advertising jewelry, celluloid novelties as well as badges and emblems in gold and sterling silver.


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Whiteside & Blank

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Whiteside & Blank
USA
Newark NJ
1890

Specialties

Founded as: Henry Blank & Co. , 1890
Whiteside & Blank

Manufacturers for


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Frank M. Whiting & Co.

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Frank M. Whiting & Co.
USA
c.1875-1940

Specialties

  • Silversmith
  • Manufacturer


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Whiting Manufacturing Co.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty

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Stamped Mark
Whiting Manufacturing Co.
e.1866
American
• Silversmith
• Jeweler
• Manufacturer
• Bought by Gorham

James H. Winn

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
James H. Winn
(1866-c.1940)
e.1905-1929
Chicago, IL
USA
• Former jewelry manufacturer/businessman.
• Made jewelry with Art Nouveau styling and Arts & Crafts methods.
• Necklaces
• Bracelets
• Watch Fobs
• Taught classes in his workshop in the Fine Arts Building.
• After WWI closed shop and moved to Pasadena, California to paint and sculpt.



Harry Winston

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
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Harry Winston
(1896-1978)
New York
• Created platinum settings for gemstones that were fflexible
• Bought and sold many famous gems and jewelry collections
• Made major gemstone donations to museum collections.


Frank Lloyd Wright

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Frank Lloyd Wright
c.1889
Oak Park, IL
USA
• Architect & Designer
• Geometrically embossed urns, candlesticks, lamps, silverware, etc.


Raymond Yard Inc.

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Raymond Yard Inc.
USA
New York
e.1922

Specialties

1898

  • Messenger at Marcus & Co.
  • Took jewelry making classes at night and trained at Marcus & Co. during the day.

1902

  • Began to string pearls for Marcus & Co.

1906

  • Promoted to Salesman working his way to General Manager

1920s

  • Established his own firm.
  • Created his own distinctive style.

1930s

1940s

1950s

  • Return to platinum.
  • Used some imported French yellow gold mountings for brooches and bracelets.

1958

  • Raymond Yard retired. He turned the firm over to 3 of his employees.

1960s

  • Moved the firm to 580 Fifth Ave.
  • Introduced baguettes set with claws.
  • More French mountings used.
  • Classic Yard styles and new styles made the firm prosperous.

1970s

  • Abstract designs, metal featured.

1989

  • Firm taken over by Robert Gibson Jr. (son of one of the 3 Yard employee successors.)


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Lang Antiques
Lang Antiques