Arts and crafts jewelry
from the Antique Jewelry University
The Arts & Crafts Movement (1890-1914) had its roots in the designs and philosophy of British designer William Morris. Morris had a deep loathing for mechanism and an overwhelming social conscience. He rejected the opulence associated with industrialism in favor of the simplicity of good craftsmanship and design. The original intent of the Arts and Crafts Movement was to provide the common man with hand-made items of exceptional design. Ironically, the rising cost of labor in Britain made those designs incredibly expensive and out of reach for all but the upper class.
Morris was connected with the Pre-Raphaelite School of fine art. The Pre-Raphaelite painters like Rosetti and Mallais had a major influence on Arts and Crafts Jewelry. They would often commission jewelry pieces to be made and feature them prominently in their paintings.
The design of Arts and Crafts Jewelry was of primary importance. The designs were taken from nature and were often abstract or symbolic.
The intrinsic value of the metal and gemstones was really of secondary importance. In Arts and Crafts jewelry, cabochon cuts, usually bezel-set, were preferred over faceted stones and silver was the preferred over gold. Humble materials, like brass and copper, were valued and used to create jewelry. Enamel was popular with Art and Crafts Jewelry, but in simpler, less flowing lines than seen in Art Nouveau jewels.
Trade treaties were signed in 1859 with the Japanese and large quantities of Japanese goods flooded into Europe. In 1862, a large collection of Japanese prints and fabrics were shown in the Great International Exhibition in London. The bulk of these Japanese items were purchased by a company who hired Arthur Lasenby Liberty to manage their Oriental Department. Eventually, Arthur Liberty purchased their entire inventory of Japanese imports and opened his own shop on Regent Street in London, called simply "Liberty". Liberty was destined to become the most important showcase for both Arts and Crafts Jewelry and Art Nouveau Jewelry and objects d'art in Britain.
One of the leading jewelry craftsman of the time was Charles Robert Ashbee. The Arts and Crafts Brooch on the right was designed by him and is a classic example of Arts and Crafts Jewelry Design! His work can be identified by his hallmarking, which reads: CRA GOH Ltd. He founded the Guild of Handicrafts in 1888.
Motifs that were typical of Arts and Crafts jewelry are winged scarabs, thistles, celtic designs, ivy, peacocks, and jewels that were inspired by Renaissance and Etruscan themes.
Stones common to Arts and Crafts Jewelry are lapis, turquoise, moonstone, carnelian, blister pearls, amethyst, peridot, malachite, opal and ivory.
As mentioned earlier, the high prices associated with Arts and Crafts Jewelry and other applied arts of this genre, resulted in the period having a relatively short life. This exclusivity makes them incredibly collectible and desirable today!