Georgian Châtelaine.

A châtelaine or chatelaine (from French: "lady of the castle") in its original form is a belt hook, worn by the lady of the castle, from which the keys of the castle were suspended. Later this evolved and several chains with accessoires were suspended from it and worn by women as well as by men.

It is a form of jewelry that has it's origin in practical use. Women used to hang household tools from their belts to have them handy at all times. Lady's clothing wasn't designed with pockets to keep such objects in. This custom gave birth to the evolution of a functional jewelry piece that is the predecessor of the modern day lady's handbag. It only lost it's popularity when women started to work away from their homes around the start of the 20th century. The prolonged usefulness of the item has caused it to appear in a lot of different styles, following fashion throughout the times. From as early as the early Middle Ages plain rings with chains have been used. They evolved into extremely detailed masterpieces like the mid 18th century one displayed on the right.

French Art Nouveau Silver Châtelaine.

Châtelaines were popular from the 17th to the early 20th century. The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine that reported on the fashions in 1874 held that châtelaines were worn at balls, having hooks suspended from them to hold fans. A spate of châtelaines in the 1878 Exhibition reflected their acceptance in formal wear. An extensive range of gold and silver, steel and electroplate fittings and appendages came on the market. Purses, étui memorandum books, pomanders, vinaigrettes, sewing implements and other nécessaire were suspended from them. Mass manufactured châtelaines became available, indicating the widespread use and popularity. The beginning of the 20th century marked the end of the chatelaine although modern day seamstresses still like to use them for practical reasons.

The Art Journal reported the following in 1883:

”

...the long and inconvenient châtelaine, with it's noisy toys, has shrunk to the dimensions of a watch-chain and swivel, worn at the lady's waist so as to show outside her dress...

”

Typical Rococo Étui with Nécessaire c.1750.

The Nécessaire.

Along with the Étui, Pomanders are a Common Sight on Châtelaines.

The wide belts of those times were excellent to receive large châtelaine hooks and several designs are known to have been manufactured in the period 1870-1886. The general trend towards the 1900's became that of smaller ones. Removable brooches that could be worn separately, decorating the tops of the chatelaines, became fashionable. Endless stamped châtelaines, many from German manufacturers, were available in the shops.

Châtelaines weren't reserved for women. Men wore them as well. Early examples suspended items like a watch, seal, small pocket knife and a writing instrument. From c. 1800 onward they were simplified.

A ladies châtelaine would typically carry important keys, a pencil with a small ivory sheet to write on and scissors or sewing kits.

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Accessoire
Nécessaire
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Étui