Chatelaine
from the Antique Jewelry University
A chatelaine or châtelaine (from French: "lady of the castle") in its original form is a belt hook, worn by the lady of the castle, from which the keys of the castle were suspended. Later this evolved and several chains with accessoires were suspended from it and worn by women as well as by men.
It is a form of jewelry that has it's origin in practical use. Women used to hang household tools from their belts to have them handy at all times. Lady's clothing wasn't designed with pockets to keep such objects in. This custom gave birth to the evolution of a functional jewelry piece that is the predecessor of the modern days lady's handbag. It only lost it's popularity when women started to work away from their homes around the start of the 20th century. The prolonged usefulness of the item has caused it to appear in a lot of different styles, following fashion throughout the times. From as early as the early Middle Ages plain rings with chains have been used. They evolved into extremely detailed masterpieces like the mid 18th century one displayed on the right.
Chatelaines were popular from the 17th to the early 20th century. The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine that reported on the fashions in 1874 held that chatelains were worn at balls, having hooks suspended from them to hold fans. A spate of chatelains on the 1878 Exhibition reflected their acceptance in formal wear. An extensive range of gold and silver, steel and electroplate fittings and appendages came on the market. Purses, memorandum books, scent bottles, vinaigrettes, and sewing implements were suspended from them. Mass manufactured ones became available, indicating the widespread use and popularity. The beginning of the 20th century marked the end of the chatelaine although modern day sewers still like to use them for practical reasons.
The Art Journal reported the following in 1883:
| ” | the long and inconvenient châtelaine, with it's noisy toys, has shrunk to the dimensions of a watch-chain and swivel, worn at the lady's waist so as to show outside her dress | ” |
Chatelaines weren't reserved for women. Men wore them as well. Early examples contained things like a watch, seal, small pocket knife and a writing instrument. From ca 1800 on they got simpler.
A ladies chatelaine would typically carry important keys (tea caddy...), a pencil with a small ivory sheet to write on and scissors or sewing kits.