French Jewelry Maker's Marks

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Aucoc Jewelry Maker's Mark

Aucoc

Aucoc 1.svg

Aucoc
France
Paris
e.1821

Specialties

Founders

  • Aucoc, Casimir e.1821 La Maison Aucoc
  • Louis s.1854
  • Louis Aucoc Fils e.1877

1821

  • La Maison Aucoc founded by Casimir Aucoc.
  • Specialty - Silversmithing

1854

  • Louis succeeded Casimir

1876

1877

  • Louis Took over the firm of Lobjois.
  • Active in the societies, committees and juries.

c.1899

  • Created floral Art Nouveau jewels.
  • Chased gold.
  • Gold and enamel.
  • Enamels with precious stones.
  • Carved horn.

c.1900

  • André Aucoc took over the firm and returned the emphasis to silversmithing.

1932

  • Death of Louis Aucoc.


Auger Jewelry Maker's Mark

Alphonse Auger

Auger.svg

Alphonse Auger
France
Paris
e.1862

Specialties

  • Began his career as a gem-setter.

1862

  • Alphonse Auger forms his first company La Maison Auger

1864-1870

  • Worked for major retailers along with Gabriel Falguières.

1895

  • Son, George, enters the firm.

1900

  • George takes over the firm.

Style

  • Art Nouveau
  • Created fine jewels and presentation objects.


Bapst & Falize Jewelry Maker's Mark

Bapst & Falize

BAPST & FALIZE.svg

Bapst & Falize
France
Paris
1880-1892

Specialties

  • Combined Bapst's French royal jewelry tradition & Falize's Grand Prize & Legion of Honor at the 1878 Paris Exhibition

Partnership

  • Germain Bapst (fl.1875-1895)
  • Lucien Falize (1838-1897)


Bapst, Maison Jewelry Maker's Mark

Maison Bapst

Need Mark.jpg

Maison Bapst
France
Paris
e.1752

Specialties

1752

  • Georges-Michel Bapst (1718-1770) Succeeded his Father-in-Law, Georges-Frédéric Stras, as Orfevre-joaillier du Roi.

1761-1770

  • Georges-Michael fils apprenticed to Pierre-André Jacquemin, a royal jeweler.

1771

  • Georges-Michael fils, succeeded George-Michael.

1797

  • Jacques Bapst married into the Menière family (owners of Boehmer and Bassange, former jewelers to Marie Antoinette.)
  • Eventually, Constant and Charles-Frédéric (Jacques sons) joined the company Remodelling the Napoleonic regaila for Louis XVIII.
  • Made coroation regaila for Charles X.
  • Charles-Frédéric's nephew, Alfred joined the firm and became the workshop director (a position he held for 50 years).

1867

  • Exhibited redesigned crown jewels created for Empress Eugéne at the 1867 Exposition.

1871

  • Jules and Paul (Charles-Frédéric's sons) and Alfred take over the business.

1880



Barbedienne Jewelry Maker's Mark

Barbedienne

BARBEDIENNE1.svg

Barbedienne
France
Paris
1838-1953

Specialties

  • Foundry and Metalworkers


BARBEDIENNE2.svg

Becker, Edmond-Henri Jewelry Maker's Mark

Edmond-Henri Becker

BECKER Edmond Henri.svg

Edmond-Henri Becker
France
Paris
b.1871

Specialties

  • Sculptor, Woodcarver, Medallist & Jeweler

Designed for

  • Boucheron
  • Much of his work for Boucheron was produced by Ferdinand Verger and chased by Paul Richard.
  • Many Art Nouveau jewelers favored his designs.
  • Participated in the Paris Salons and was praised in the art journals of the day.


Belperron, Suzanne Jewelry Maker's Mark

Belperron

Not-Signed-Need-Mark.jpg

Belperron
France
Paris
(1900 - 1983)

Specialties

  • TESTING
  • Carved Rock Crystal, Chalcedony & Agate
  • Swirled motifs
  • Jeweler to the stars & Duke & Duchess of Windsor
  • Jewelry Typically not Signed. Sometimes with Manufacturer's Mark for Groëné et Darde.

1925

  • Boivin

1933

  • Maison Herz

Post World War II

  • Herz-Belperron

1974

  • Suzanne Belperron Retired

1999

  • Archives and Designs purchased by Ward Landrigan.



Boivin, René Jewelry Maker's Mark

René Boivin

Boivin.svg

René Boivin
France
Paris
e. c.1890

Specialties

  • Use of Uncommon combinations of materials: i.e. wood and pearls
  • Bold use of colored gemstones
  • Large bold striking designs


Boivin 1.svg

Borrel, Alfred Jewelry Maker's Mark

Alfred Borrel

BORREL Alfred.svg

Alfred Borrel
France
b.1836

Specialties

  • Sculptor
  • Medallist

Member

  • Darmstadt Artists' Colony c.1899


Bottée, Louis Alexandre Jewelry Maker's Mark

Louis Alexandre Bottée

BOTTEE Louis Alexandre.svg

Louis Alexandre Bottée
France
Paris
1852-1941

Specialties

  • Sculptor
  • Medallist 1890-1900
  • Studied at the Paris Ecole des Beaux Arts.

Designer jewelry plaques and medals.


Boucheron Jewelry Maker's Mark

Boucheron

Boucheron Jewelry Maker's Mark.jpg

Boucheron
France
Paris
e.1858 - current

Specialties

  • Worked in both joaillerie and bijouterie.
  • Hired local artists to render designs.
  • Art Nouveau Designs
  • Dress Clips

1830

  • Frédéric Boucheron (1830-1902) born in Paris.

1858

  • Established his first boutique in the Galerie de Valois

1866

  • Workshop established.
  • Lacy gold metalwork.
  • Faultless Craftsmanship.

Innovative use of unusual materials

1866-1928

  • FB Maker's Mark in Lozenge depicted below.

1867

  • Exhibited at the World Exhibitions. Awarded a gold medal for jewelry in 1867 at the Universal Exhibition, Paris.

1878

  • First Prize at the Universal Exhibition, Paris.

1887

  • Boucheron is the only French jeweler to participate in the acution of the French Crown diamonds.

1889

  • Universal Exhibition, Paris marked the introduction of the point d'interrogation necklace.

1893

  • First jeweler to move to Place Vendôme.

1900

  • Gold medal at the Universal Exhibition, Paris.
  • Noted as one of the forerunners of Art Nouveau.

1902

  • Death of Frédéric Boucheron.
  • Succeeded by Louis, his son.

1909

  • Louis goes to India for the first of many influential trips.

1921

  • Creates Queen Mother Elizabeth's favorite diadem.

1930

  • Boucheron is named Curator and Guardian of the Imperial Treasure of Persia.

c.1930s-40s

Designers

  • Jules Debut - 1858 to 1879
  • Octave Loeuillard - 1865 to 1875
  • Louis Rault - 1868 to 1875
  • Paul Legrand - 1863 to 1892
  • Auguste Bugniot - 1890 to ?
  • Lucien Hirtz - 1893 to 1925
  • Edmond-Henri Becker, sculptor & woodcarver.


BOUCHERON Maison2.svg

Boulenger, Maison Jewelry Maker's Mark

Maison Boulenger

BOULENGER Maison.svg

Maison Boulenger
France
Paris
fl.1920-40

Specialties

  • Silversmiths
  • M. Bodereau, Silversmith

1920s-30s

  • Manufactured modern silver.


Boutet de Monvel, Charles Jewelry Maker's Mark

Charles Boutet de Monvel

Need Mark.jpg

Charles Boutet de Monvel
France
Paris
b.1855

Specialties

1874

  • Studied medal engraving at the Ecole des Beaux Artes & later medal engraving with Ponscarme.
  • He had a more English Arts & Crafts or Jugendstil aesthetic than other French designers.

1898

  • Began making jewelry with organic motifs, rendered with an "imaginative use of materials."
    • Marine plants
    • Dragonflies
    • Pea Pods
    • Spiders & lizards
    • Shells & Seahorses.
  • Exhibited regularly at the Paris Salons.



Bracquemond, Félix Jewelry Maker's Mark

Félix Bracquemond

BRACQUEMOND Felix.svg

Félix Bracquemond
France
1833-1914

Specialties

Designer


Brandt, Edgar Jewelry Maker's Mark

Edgar Brandt

BRANDT Edgar.svg

Edgar Brandt
France
Paris
1880-1960

Specialties

  • Metalworker
  • Jeweler

1908

  • Exhibited jewels at the Musée Galliera.

Motifs


Bricteux, Antoine Jewelry Maker's Mark

Antoine Bricteux

BRICTEUX Antoine.svg

Antoine Bricteux
France
Paris
fl.c.1900

Specialties

  • Manufacturing Jeweler
  • Produced Art Nouveau jewels c.1900.

1866

  • Registration mark for Antoine Bricteux fils, bijoutier.
  • Valid until 1927.

Worked with


Callot, Jacques Jewelry Maker's Mark

Jacques Callot

CALLOT Jacques.svg

Jacques Callot
France
fl.c.1900

Specialties

  • Sculptor
  • Medallist


Carabin, François Rupert Jewelry Maker's Mark

François Rupert Carabin

CARABIN Francois Rupert.svg

François Rupert Carabin
France
1862-1932

Specialties

  • Sculptor
  • Medallist

Designer

  • Jewelry
  • Metalwork
  • Sculpted bone jewelry.

1884

  • Founder: Société des Artistes Independants with Georges Seurat, Paul Signac & Albert Dubois-Pillet.


Cardeilhac, Maison Jewelry Maker's Mark

Maison Cardeilhac

CARDDEILHAC Maison1.svg

Maison Cardeilhac
France
Paris
e.1802-1951

Specialties

  • Goldsmiths
  • Silversmiths

Designers

  • Lucien Bonvallet (1861-1919)

1817

  • Mark registered in Paris.

1927

  • Sons Jacques & Pierre took over the firm.

1944

  • Pierre's death.

1951


CARDDEILHAC Maison2.svg

CARDDEILHAC Maison3.svg

Cartier Jewelry Maker's Mark

Cartier

CARTIER1.svg

Cartier
France
Paris
e.1847

Specialties

  • Famous Jeweler

1847

  • Founded by Louis François Cartier.

1852

1856

  • Princess Mathilde became a customer.

1872

  • Son, Alfred, joined the firm.

1873

  • Egyptian Revival pushed Cartier to the pinnacle of the world of jewelry.

1902

  • London branch established.

1904

  • Royal Warrant: King Edward VII, England.
  • Royal Warrant: King Alfonso XIII, Spain.
  • Queen Alexandra of England wears the Resille necklace.

1905

  • Royal Warrant: King Carlos I of Portugal.

1906

  • Production in the Art Deco style began.

1908

  • Royal Warrant: King Paramindr Maha Chulalongkorn, Siam

1909

  • New York branch opens
  • Royal Warrant: King George I, Greece

1910

1913

  • First Mystery Clock

1914

  • Royal Warrant: Duke Philippe d'Orleans

1917

  • Two strands of natural pearls traded for mansion at 653 Fifth Avenue.

1921

  • Royal Warrant: King Edward VIII.

1924

  • Trinity Ring and Bracelet.

1933

  • Jeanne Toussaint The Panther became Director of Fine Jewelry.

1936

  • Royal Warrant: Prince Louis II, Monaco.

1942

  • Caged Bird Jewel

1944

  • Freed Bird Jewel
  • Panther Brooch ordered by the Duchess of Windsor.

1969

1970

  • Love bracelet.

1997

  • 150th anniversary.


CARTIER2.svg CARTIER3.svg CARTIER4.svg Cartier Makers Mark.jpg Cartier Mark 1.jpg

Cartier Makers Mark 2.jpg

Cazin, J.M. Michel Jewelry Maker's Mark

J.M. Michel Cazin

CAZIN JM Michael.svg

J.M. Michel Cazin
France
1869-1917

Specialties

  • Sculptor
  • Medallist


Chanel Jewelry Maker's Mark

Chanel

Chanel.svg

Chanel
France
Paris
e.1910

Specialties

1921

  • Chanel No.5 became the first couture perfume

1927-1933

  • Verdura collaborates with Chanel on jewelry design

1930

  • Maltese Cross design

1932

1939-1945

  • Closed during the Occupation

1971

  • Death of Coco Chanel


Chaplain, Jules Clément Jewelry Maker's Mark

Jules Clément Chaplain

CHAPLAIN Jules Clement.svg

Jules Clément Chaplain
France
1839-1909

Specialties

  • Sculptor
  • Medallist


Chapu, Henri Michael Antoine Jewelry Maker's Mark

Henri Michael Antoine Chapu

CHAPU Henri Michel A.svg

Henri Michael Antoine Chapu
France
1833-1891

Specialties

  • Sculptor
  • Medallist


Charpentier, Alexandre Jewelry Maker's Mark

Alexandre Charpentier

CHARPENTIER Alexandre1.svg

Alexandre Charpentier
France
1856-1909

Specialties

  • Medallist
  • Designer for Fontain Freres Vaillant.
  • Cartier used his design skills.


CHARPENTIER Alexandre2.svg

Chaumet Jewelry Maker's Mark

Chaumet

Chaumet 1.svg

Chaumet
France
Paris
e. 1793

Specialties

  • Exceptional craftsmanship
  • Tiaras

1780

  • Etienne Nitot Opens for business on rue St. Honoré.

1800

  • Orders from Joséphine Beauharnais.

1804

  • Crown for Napoleon.
  • Princess Joséphine.
  • Hydrangea parure.
  • Cameo & intaglio parure.
  • Pearl parure.

1809

  • François Regnault Nitot takes over the firm after the death of Etienne Nitot.

1810

  • Napoleon commissions a ruby parure for his bride, Marie Louise.

1815

  • François retires and turns the firm over to Jean Baptiste Fossin, his workshop director.

1832

  • Fossin & Fils named "Crown Jewellers" of France.

1837

  • Awarded Legion d'Honneur.

1834-1840

  • Jean Valentin worked for Fossin.
  • Royal Warrant: Queen Victoria - to Morel.
  • Morel's daughter married Joseph Chaumet.

1862

  • Fossin turns the company over to Prosper Morel.
  • Fossin organizes the bijouterie et joaillerie française for the London World Exhibition.

1874

  • Joseph Chaumet partners with Morel.
  • Chaumet marries Morel's daughter and takes over the firm in 1885.

1900

  • Gold Medal at the Paris World Exhibition.
  • Russian Imperial Order.
  • Became known as the Master of Tiaras.

1910

  • Opens in New York.

1928

  • 150th anniversary.

1972

1987

  • End of Chaumet family involvement in the firm.


Chaumet.svg

Cheuret, Albert Jewelry Maker's Mark

Albert Cheuret

CHEURET Albert.svg

Albert Cheuret
France
fl.1900-1930

Specialties

  • Metalwork designer


Christian Dior Jewelry Maker's Mark

Christian Dior

Dior.svg

Christian Dior
France
Paris
e. December 16, 1946

Specialties

1950s:

  • Couture "New Look"

1950

  • Added other luxury goods including jewelry


Christolfe, Orfèvrerie Jewelry Maker's Mark

Orfèvrerie Christolfe

CHRISTOFLE Orfevrerie1.svg

Orfèvrerie Christolfe
France
Paris
e. 1830

Specialties

  • Goldsmiths
  • Silversmiths
  • First silver plate manufacturer in France.
  • Supplied jewelry houses internationally.

1845

  • Expansion included tableware

1930

  • Commission for jewelry from Marchak

Partnership

  • Charles Christofle
  • Joseph Albert Bouilhet

Designers


CHRISTOFLE Orfevrerie2.svg CHRISTOFLE Orfevrerie4.svg

CHRISTOFLE Orfevrerie5.svg

Cocteau, Jean Jewelry Maker's Mark

Jean Cocteau

Cocteau Jean.svg

Jean Cocteau
France
Paris
1889 - 1963

Specialties

  • Avant-Garde Artist


Coudenhove-Kallergis, Anita Jewelry Maker's Mark

Anita Coudenhove-Kallergis

Need Mark.jpg

Anita Coudenhove-Kallergis
France
Paris
(1898 - ?)

Specialties

  • Sculptor & Craftswoman
  • Studied at the Kunstgewerbeschule, Vienna
  • Began making jewelry c.1932 in Paris.
  • Lived and worked in Vienna, Sydney, Paris and Athens



Coudray, Marie Alexandre Jewelry Maker's Mark

Marie Alexandre Coudray

COUDRAY Marie Alexandre.svg

Marie Alexandre Coudray
France
Paris
b.1864

Specialties

  • Sculptor
  • Medallist
  • Studied at the Ecole des Beaux Arts under Ponscarme.

c.1890s

  • Created medal jewels.
  • Grand Prix de Rome. 1893 for a bas-relief of Orpheus at the gates of Hell
  • Silver Medal a the Paris Universal Exhibition, 1900


Damman, Paul-Marcel Jewelry Maker's Mark

Paul-Marcel Damman

DAMMANN Paul Marcel.svg

Paul-Marcel Damman
France
1885-1939

Specialties

  • Medallist


Debain, A. Jewelry Maker's Mark

A. Debain

DEBAIN A.svg

A. Debain
France
1911-1929

Specialties

  • Manufacturing Silversmiths.
  • Commissioned by La Maison Moderne.


Descomps, Emanuel-Jules Joe Jewelry Maker's Mark

Emanuel-Jules Joe Descomps

DESCOMPS Emanuel Jules Joe.svg

Emanuel-Jules Joe Descomps
France
1872-1978

Specialties

  • Goldsmith
  • Sculptor, Medallist & Engraver
  • Enamelist
  • Jewelry Featuring Engraving & Enamels
  • Trained with Falguières


Desprès, Jean Jewelry Maker's Mark

Jean Desprès

DESPRES Jean1.svg

Jean Desprès
France
Paris
1889-1980

Specialties

  • Trained in Avallon and Paris.
  • Participated in the important exhibitions following World War I.
  • Art Deco Artiste-Bijoutier
  • Bijoux Glaces Mirrored Jewelry
  • Bijoux Moteurs Motor Jewels

1930

  • Chevalier de la Legion d'Honneur


DESPRES Jean2.svg

Dinh Van Jewelry Maker's Mark

Dinh Van

Dinh Van.svg

Dinh Van
France
Paris
e.1976

Specialties

1960s

  • Employed by Cartier
  • Bold Geometric Cut-Out Designs


Dropsy, Jean-Bapiste-Emile Jewelry Maker's Mark

Jean-Bapiste-Emile Dropsy

DROPSY Jean Baptiste Emile.svg

Jean-Bapiste-Emile Dropsy
France
Paris
1858-1923

Specialties

  • Medallist
  • Religious medals, plaques and brooches
  • Worked for the firm of L. Chalin and others.
  • Won a third class medal at the 1898 Paris Salon.


Dunand, Jean Jewelry Maker's Mark

Jean Dunand

DUNAND Jean.svg

Jean Dunand
France
1877-1942

Specialties

  • Studied in Geneva at Ecol des Arts Industriels.
  • Japanese Lacquerwork, Art Deco Wide Gold Bangles.
  • Tapastry Effect with Silver, Lacquer, and Stone.

1897

  • Went to Paris to work for Jean Dampt.

1912

  • Studied lacquer work with Sougawara.


Dupuis, Jean-Baptiste Daniel Jewelry Maker's Mark

Jean-Baptiste Daniel Dupuis

DUPUIS Jean Baptiste Daniel.svg

Jean-Baptiste Daniel Dupuis
France
1849-99

Specialties

Medallist


Dusausoy Jewelry Maker's Mark

Dusausoy

Need Mark.jpg

Dusausoy
France
Paris
e.1840- c.1970

Specialties

  • Versatility was their Hallmark - many Combinations Possible for Each Piece of Jewelry.



Duvalet, Maurice Jewelry Maker's Mark

Maurice Duvalet

Need Mark.jpg

Maurice Duvalet
France

Specialties

  • French born designer. Worked in conjunction with Van Cleef & Arpels.
  • Ballerina brooches.



Dériot Jewelry Maker's Mark

Dériot

DERIOT.svg

Dériot
France
fl.1900-20

Specialties

  • Manufacturing Silversmiths


Epinay De Briort, Prosper, Comte d' Jewelry Maker's Mark

Comte Prosper d'Epinay De Briort

EPINAY DE BRIORT Prosper Comte d.svg

Comte Prosper d'Epinay De Briort
France
Paris
(1836-1914)

Specialties

  • Medallist
  • Sculptor and jeweler.
  • Especially figurative jewelry, translating sculpture in to medals.
  • Engraver
  • Studied in Paris and Rome (Mauritius)


Espezel Jewelry Maker's Mark

Espezel

Need Mark.jpg

Espezel
France
Paris

Specialties

  • Manufacturing Jeweler Contracting with many of the most Prominent Twentieth Century Jewelers



Falize Jewelry Maker's Mark

Alexis Falize

Falize Aine Fils.svg

Alexis Falize
France
Paris
e.1838

Specialties

  • Alexis helped develop Cloisonné techniques for jewelry.
  • Created Japanese motif enamel medallions, pendants, etc.
  • Renaissance Revival Jewelery
  • Lucien Worked in Basse-Taille, reviving the technique.
  • André - Falize Frères - produced Art Nouveau jewelry.

Alexis Falize 1833-35

  • Trained at Mellerio Frères

1838

  • Takes over Aristide Joureau-Robin's workshop.

1839

  • Birth of Lucien Falize.

1841

  • Registers master mark.
  • Never exhibits under his own name.

1848

  • Begins to create designs for Boucheron and others.

1856

  • Lucien joins the firm.

1862

  • Lucien is influenced by the International Exhibition in London and the Japanese items on exhibit there.
  • Developed a style of cloisonné which he exhibited at the Paris Exhibition.

1876

  • Alexis Falize retires.

1878

  • Legion d'Honneur and Grand Prix at the Exposition Universelle

c.1880-1892

1894

  • Lucien's son André joins the firm.

1897

  • Lucien Falize dies.
  • Lucein Falize's Sons form Falize Frères with André at the helm.

1898

  • Alexis Falize Dies.

1900

  • Falize Frères win Grand Prix at the Exhibition

1904

  • Serbian Crown Jewels


Feuillâtre, Eugène Jewelry Maker's Mark

Eugène Feuillâtre

FEUILLLATRE Eugene1.svg

Eugène Feuillâtre
France
Paris
(1870 - 1916)

Specialties

  • Famous for his Enamel Work
  • Studied under Louis Houillon
  • Worked closely with Etienne Tourette

1890

1893

  • Experimented with enamel on silver and platinum.

1897

1899

  • Became a member of the Société des Artistes Français.

1900

  • Exhibited a the the Paris International Exhibition.


FEUILLLATRE Eugene2.svg

Fjerdingstad, Carl Christian Jewelry Maker's Mark

Carl Christian Fjerdingstad

FJERDINGSTAD Carl Christian.svg

Carl Christian Fjerdingstad
France
Paris
1891-1968

Specialties

  • Born in Norway.

1921


Fjerdingstad.svg

Follot, Paul Jewelry Maker's Mark

Paul Follot

FOLLOT Paul.svg

Paul Follot
France
Paris
1877-1941

Specialties

  • Designer for Julius Meier-Graefe's La Maison Moderne until it closed.

1904

  • Exhibited independently.

1920s Designer for


Fonsèque et Olive Jewelry Maker's Mark

Fonsèque et Olive

FONSEQUE & OLIVE.svg

Fonsèque et Olive
France
Paris
e. 1885

Specialties

  • Olive trained at the Ecole des Arts Décoratifs.

1873

  • Vienna Exhibition
  • Lead to designing for Falize.

1885

  • Partnered with Fonsèque.
  • Unusual brooches designed as coffee beans and grapes.
  • Early supporters of medal jewels.
  • Successful producers of Art Nouveau designs.

1886

  • Commissioned Vernier to create 'Diane'.
  • Worked with Jules Chéret to translate his popular posters into medal jewels.


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