Mauboussin

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Mauboussin Art Deco Diamond Brooch with Colombian Emerald Center, circa 1925.
Photo Courtesy of Christie's.

Mauboussin is a French jewellery firm famous for its Art Deco and Retro jewellery and objects. Though its roots go back to 1827, the firm first gained international acclaim in the 1920’s. Its rise into the ranks of Parisian fine jewellers is attributed to Georges Mauboussin, an enterprising and talented jeweller who entered his uncle’s firm, Noury, as an apprentice in 1877. Soon Mauboussin became a partner and in 1903, he became the sole proprietor.[1] After moving and expanding the firm’s Paris location, Mauboussin began to extend its international presence, setting up boutiques and exhibiting jewellery all over the world. In 1925, the firm won its first great breakthrough: a Grand Prize for jewellery at Paris’s Decorative Arts Exhibition—a coup, given the competition. The firm thereafter moved to 20 Place Vendôme, where its flagship store remains today. In its heyday Mauboussin was known for its chunky floral-motif brooches, pendants, and bracelets, often featuring bright enamels, diamonds, and brightly colored gemstones. The firm’s important gem acquisitions include the 80-carat Nassak diamond, purchased from the Duke of Westminster in the early 1920’s. On October 1st of 1929, the firm opened a branch in New York City. When the stock market crashed less than one month later, it sold the location to the American firm Trabert & Hoeffer. Under the name, Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin, the firm expanded, opening branches in Atlantic City, Los Angeles, Miami, and Palm Beach and provided starlets like Marlene Dietrich and Paulette Godard with eye-popping Art Deco and Retro jewels.[2]

Mauboussin Crystal and Diamond Illusion Ring.
Photo Courtesy of Lang Antiques.
Mauboussin Art Deco Star Sapphire, Diamond and Black Onyx Necklace, circa 1926.
Photo Courtesy of Christie's.
Mauboussin Antique Diamond Fringe Necklace, Convertible to bracelet, Tiara, Brooch and Haircomb, circa 1902.
Photo Courtesy of Christie's.
Mauboussin Multi-Stone Gold Clip Earrings.
Photo courtesy of Lang Antiques.


Mauboussin Jewelry Maker's Mark

Mauboussin

Maubaussin.jpg

Mauboussin
France
Paris
e.1827

Specialties

1827

  • M. Rocher, artisan jeweler, establishes jewelry shop with Jean-Baptiste Noury.

1873-1878

  • Participation in Expositions in Vienna and Paris.
  • Mauboussin is given a medal in Paris, 1878.

1925

  • Exposition des Arts Décoratifs, Paris
  • Grad Prix for the House of Mauboussin.

1928-1931

1940-1950

  • Gaspipe style using minimal gold.
  • Naturalist themes.

1955

  • Opens in Place Vendôme.
  • Mauboussin has retail locations around the world.


Mauboussin Mark.jpg

Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin Jewelry Maker's Mark

Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin

Trabert Hoeffer Mauboussin Mark.jpg

Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin
USA
New York Los Angeles Miami Beach Palm Beach Beverly Hills Atlantic City Chicago Paris
c.1929-c.1950s

Specialties

  • Art Deco and Retro Jewelry.
  • Convertible Jewelry.
  • Magnificent Gemstones.
  • Reflections Line with its "mix-and-match" components.
  • Using the Glamour of the Movie Industry to Promote their Jewelry.

1827

  • Monsieur Rocher
    • Opens a jewelry firm in Paris, eventually this is becomes the House of Mauboussin.

1869

  • Birth of Randolph J. Trabert

1891

  • Birth of William Howard Hoeffer

1915

  • Trabert & Hoeffer meet while working for T. Kirkpatrick & Co.

1924

  • Mauboussin opens a shop on Park Avenue.

1926

  • Trabert & Hoeffer, Inc opened at 522 Fifth Avenue.

1929

  • Mauboussin moves to E. 51st and incorporates in the U.S.
  • In addition, Mauboussin has a Palm Beach address.

1930

  • Death of Randolph Trabert.

1934

  • Trabert & Hoeffer opens a Los Angeles Shop.

1935

  • Hoeffer loans jewelry to the Paramount Pictures production The Gilded Lilly beginning a long tradition of lending jewelry to movies and movie stars.
  • Trabert & Hoeffer moves the New York store to Park Avenue.
  • Mauboussin closes its U.S. locations and liquidates the remaining inventory.

1936

  • Trabert & Hoeffer, Inc.-Mauboussin is announced as a merger, in fact it was more of a marketing ploy giving Mauboussin access to T&H's Hollywood clients and allowed Mauboussin to work out issues with the United States Treasury regarding duties on earlier imports.

1938

  • Gustave Toth designed the Reflection Series.
  • William Ruser moved from NY to LA to manage the Los Angeles shop.

1940

  • THM Opens a shop in Chicago.
  • A patent is obtained covering elements for monogram brooches as part of the Reflection design line.

1941

  • Zodiac line is added to the Reflection series.

1945

  • Hoeffer monopolizes the entire output of emeralds from the Muzo mines, Colombia.

1947

  • William Ruser leaves THM and establishes his iconic Rodeo Drive jewelry business.

1953

  • Mauboussin severs ties with Trabert & Hoeffer.

1954

  • The Los Angeles location of T&H moves to 335 Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills to be closer to their movie star clients.

1955

  • T&H liquidates its inventory at the Park Avenue location (sold in 1950 to Morris Kaplan & Maurice Gordon of Chicago)

1956

  • Hoeffer retires.

1968

  • Death of Hoeffer.

1971

  • Park Avenue store closes (at the end of the 20 year lease established when the building was sold.)

1988

  • Cutlers, Trabert & Hoeffer (est. 1961) closes its Florida location.


Reflections Mark.jpg

Notes

  1. Gabaroi, 94.
  2. Traina, 99

Sources Consulted

  • Gabaroi, Melissa. Art Deco Jewellery: 1920-1949. Norfolk: Antique Collectors Club, 1989.
  • Traina, John. Extraordinary Jewels. New York: Double Day, 1994.

Related Topics

Lang Antiques
Lang Antiques