Peridot

from the Antique Jewelry University

Through Libra's sign it is quite well
To free yourself from evil spell,
For in her gem surcease doth dwell,
The chrysolite.[1]

Art Nouveau pendant set with peridot.
Art Nouveau pendant set with peridot.

The olive to yellowish-green gemstone peridot has long been valued for its exceptional color in combination with an oily-vitreous luster. In ancient times it was mined at the island of St. John's (now named Zagbargad) along the south-eastern coast of Egypt. Although this old source is now almost completely depleted, it provided for the most valuable stones.

Peridot was given many names during history, mostly due to resemblance in color between many gemstone varieties. It was named topazos - after the antique name of St. John's Island - chrysolite and olivine. Generally peridot is classified as being a member of the olivine group, but it is actually a member of the isomorphous forsterite-fayalite group. Forsterite is the mineral which in modern days is synthesized to mimick the coveted blue gemstone tanzanite. Peridot is hardly ever confused with any other gemstone due to the typical color and the high double refraction it exhibits in cut stones. Peridot is a type II gemstone on the GIA clarity scale and one can find typical inclusions as water-lily pads in them for which they are so well known and sought after.

In the 1830's and 1840's peridot was a favorite stone, but its popularity rose at the end of the 19th century during the aesthetic period of the Victorian era (1890-1901) and the reign of Edward VII of England, whom designated it as his favorite gemstone[2]. The fashion during the fin-de-siecle was inspired by earth tones with strong brownish and green modifiers to which the olivine color of peridot was complementary. The female ideal image to an aesthetic was a pale faced, green eyed young lady with red hair dressed in low heels with dull colored clothing. Almost every school of the days - the Pre-Raphaelites, the Arts and Crafts movement, Art Nouveau as well as those working in the Edwardian style - incorporated this gemstone in their designs due its softness in tone. Giuliano used it in a wonderful holbeinesque pendant dating from around 1900. As green was one of the suffragette colors, one can find this stone to be incorporated into these symbolic jewels.

Main sources for this gemstone are in Myanmar, Pakistan and Arizona, USA.

Peridot is the gift for the 16th anniversary and the birthstone for the month of August (Libra zodiac sign).


Gemological information for peridot
ColorGreen, yellow-green
Crystal structureOrthorhombic
Refractive index1.654-1.690
DurabilitySensitive to heat
Hardness6.5-7
TreatmentsNone known
Similar stonesPeridot might be confused with many transparent green stones and glass, usually the strong double refraction is a good indicator
Peridot care
Ultrasonic cleaningNot safe
Steam cleaningNot safe
Warm soapy waterSafe
Chemical attackAvoid
Light sensitivityStable
Heat sensitivityMay fracture

Notes

  1. Kunz, 346
  2. Romero, 120

Sources consulted

  • Bennett & Mascetti, David & Daniela. Understanding Jewellery. Antique Collectors' Club. 1991.
  • Robert Webster/ B.W. Anderson. Gems Their Sources, Descriptions and Identification 4th Edition. 1990.
  • Kunz, George Frederick. The Curious Lore of Precious Stones. Dover, 1971.
  • Romero, Christie. Warman's Jewelry. Iola, WI, USA: Krause Publications, 2002
  • Amstel-Bos, E.G.G van. Sieraden uit de negentiende eeuw. Lochem, The Netherlands: De Tijdstroom, 1981