Turquoise is a blue, blue-green or grey-green opaque gemstone who's name is derived from the Turkish trade route along which these stones traveled to reach Europe in ancient times. Almost always cut en cabochon, although sometimes seen in nugget form or even faceted, it has a waxy luster and is able to achieve a high polish. Limonite is the host rock for turquoise and occasionally spots or veins of limonite pattern the turquoise. The main historical sources were the Nishapur region of Persia (currently Iran) and the Sinai Peninsula. Popular since ancient times, turquoise deposits in the Sinai were already depleted by 4,000 BC. Turquoise was, and is, valued for jewelry and other adornment, including cosmetics.

Throughout history, turquoise has been prized for its perceived talismanic properties. Ancient Egyptians were known to carve it into animal figures worn as symbols of their gods. Pliny, however, assigned turquoise the same virtues as any other blue or green stone. During the Middle Ages turquoise was valued for its supposed ability to prevent falls from horseback and protect the wearer from poisons. In the Seventeenth Century the gem was worn almost exclusively by men and it was considered an absolute necessity for well dressed gentlemen to be wearing fine turquoise.

Carved Oval Turquoise with Arabic Characters Set In a Victorian Brooch, Photo Courtesy of Lang Antiques

Persians have appreciated turquoise as beautiful and powerful down through the ages with a saying that

”

.... to escape evil and attain good fortune one must see the reflection of the new moon either on the face of a friend, on a copy of the Koran, or on a turquoise...

”

This ranks turquoise on a level with religion and friendship, a very powerful stone indeed.

Native Americans valued the gem and Zuñis held it absolutely sacred, carving fetishes and talismans in the forms of animals, insects and other living shapes. Navajo legends speak of turquoise jewel baskets. The Apaches also held turquoise in high regard. Apache medicine men and shaman regarded turquoise as absolutely essential. Following a rainbow resulted not in a pot of gold but turquoise. Aiding the accuracy of a hunter's aim was another power highly valued by the Apache.

Trade in turquoise crafts, such as this freeform pendant dating from 1000–1040 CE, is believed to have brought the Ancestral Puebloans of the Chaco Canyon great wealth.

Queen Victoria's love of turquoise was no secret. It is said that upon her marriage to Albert, Queen Victoria gave portrait rings to her ladies-in-waiting. Each miniature portrait of the Queen was surrounded by turquoise cabochons. Tiny turquoise cabochons were also commonly pave set in mid-Victorian jewelry covering snake motif bracelets and necklaces, brooches and the like.

This Victorian Era Ring Displays an Array of Varied Color Turquoise. Photo Courtesy of Lang Antiques.

Turquoise enjoyed a resurgence in the late Victorian era set in rings, brooches, earrings, but in larger sizes. In the Twentieth Century, turquoise was very popular with a Native American jewelry revival in the 1950's through the 1970's.

The porous nature of turquoise invites dying, impregnating with waxes and polymers and powdered turquoise is often reconstituted, along with other ingredients, and sold as gem turquoise. Dyed howlite, dyed chalcedony, glass, ceramics, plastic and many other materials have been used to simulate turquoise.

Gemological information for turquoise
Color	Various shades of blue and green
Crystal Structure	Triclinic
Refractive Index	~1.62
Durability	Average to poor
Hardness	5-6
Treatments	Dying, coatings
Country of origin	Iran, Afghanistan
Turquoise care
Ultrasonic cleaning	Not safe
Steam cleaning	Not safe
Warm soapy water	Safe
Chemical attack	Avoid
Light sensitivity	Stable unless dyed
Heat sensitivity	Not stable

Sources Consulted

Campbell, Marian. Medieval Jewellery. London: V & A Publishing, 2009. P.28.

Gem Reference Guide, Los Angeles: Gemological Institute of America, 1988. Pp. 252-255.

Kunz, George Frederick. The Curious Lore of Precious Stones, New York: Bell Publishing Company, 1989. Pp. 108-114.

Newman, Harold. An Illustrated Dictionary of Jewelry, London: Thames and Hudson, Ltd., 1981. P.314.

Romero, Christie. Warman’s Jewelry, Radnor, Pennsylvania: Wallace-Homestead Book Company, 1995. P. 60.

Schumann, Walter. Gemstones of the World, New York: Sterling Publishing, Co., 1977. P.170.