Difference between revisions of "Famous Jewelers Jewelry Maker's Marks"

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(Temblier, Raymond)
(Templier)
Line 4,090: Line 4,090:
 
:; 1885
 
:; 1885
 
::• Paul Templier takes over the firm.
 
::• Paul Templier takes over the firm.
:; 1970
+
:; 1907
 
::• Paul Templier becomes President of the Chambers of Jewellery of Paris, replacing Louis Aucoc.
 
::• Paul Templier becomes President of the Chambers of Jewellery of Paris, replacing Louis Aucoc.
 
:; 1927
 
:; 1927

Revision as of 16:59, 26 March 2013

Adler

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Adler
e. 1886





• Specializing in use of color combinations.



Akelo

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Akelo

Italy


Albert

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Albert
e.1962
Geneva
Watch Designer for
• Patek Philippe
Awards for
• Patek Philippe
• Omega
• His own workshop


Aletto Bros

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Aletto Bros
19 cen.
e.1964
Naples
New York
• Contemporary interpretations of historic jewels.
• Masterful use of Invisible Setting


Asprey & Co.

Jewelry Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
1903-1908
1906-1907 - Objects
1908
1910-1965
1986
2007
Asprey & Co.
e.1781
Great Britain
• Jewelers
• Silversmiths
• Dressing Cases
1847
• New Bond Street Store
1851
• Great Exhibition: Gold Medal awarded by Queen Victoria
1862
• Royal Warrant from Queen Victoria
1889
• Royal Warrant from King Edward VII
1925
• Pearl Necklace commissioned by Queen Mary
1930
• Five trunks commissioned by Maharajah of Patiala
1975
• Queen's Award to industry from Queen Elizabeth II
1998
• Merger: Asprey & Garrard
2002
• Demerger from Garrard
Currently
• Specializing in custom designs, novelties & luxury merchandise


Aucoc

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Aucoc
e.1821
Paris
Chased & enameled items using the finest materials
Art Nouveau designs


Audemars Piguet

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Audemars Piguet
e.1875
Switzerland
• Created the Grande Complication
• First skeleton watch
• Thinnest manual wind
• Ultra-Thin automatic perpetual


Auger

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Auger
e.1862


Bailey, Banks & Biddle

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Bb&b-sig.jpg
Bailey, Banks & Biddle
Joseph T. Bailey c.1832 Bailey & Co.
Partners Joseph T. Bailey II, George W. Banks & Samuel Biddle c.1878
Philadelphia PA
Founders
• George Banks
• Samuel Biddle
• Joseph T. Bailey
• Manufacturing jewelers
• Diamond dealers
• Jewelers to prominent Americans
America's oldest jeweler
• Civil War swords
• Mortuary Medal for Abraham Lincoln
• Medal of Honor
• Purple Heart, Silver & Bronze Stars
• Floral jewelry with semi-precious colored stones


Bapst & Falize

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Bapst & Falize
Partnership 1880-1892
Paris
• Combined Bapst's French royal jewelry tradition & Falize's Grand Prize & Legion of Honor at the 1878 Paris Exhibition


Baume & Mercier

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Baume & Mercier
c.1830
Switzerland
• Watchmakers
Currently
• Owned by Richemont Group


Bagués

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Bagués
e. 1917
Bagués i Bagués
e.1927
Barcelona
Calle San Pau
1948
• New branch in the Ramblas
1950
• New branch in the Passeig de Gracia


Bautte

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Bautte
e.1791
• Specialized in watches
1906
• Purchased by Girard Perregaux


Beattie & Sons

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Beattie & Sons
c.1884
Cleveland
• Jewelry until 1906
• Dealt exclusively with fine Jewels


Belais

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Belais
e. c.1900
USA
• First to use White Gold in Jewelry in the United States
1917
• Patented a white gold formula


Belperron

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Typically not Signed
Sometimes with Manufacturer's Mark for Groëné et Darde
Belperron
1925 Boivin
1933 Maison Herz
Paris
• Carved Rock Crystal, Chalcedony & Agate
• Swirled motifs
• Jeweler to the stars & Duke & Duchess of Windsor



Benson

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Benson
1849-1973
London
Watches & clocks
c.1888
Platinum & yellow gold novelty brooches
• Acquired Hunt & Roskell
1973
• Name sold


Benvenuto Cellini

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Benvenuto Cellini
(1500-1571)
Italy
• Italian Renaissance goldsmith serving Popes and royalty


Black, Starr & Frost

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Blackstarmark.jpg
Cortlandt W. Starr
(1833-1888)
e.1801
Black, Starr & Frost
1801 Georgia
1860 New York
• Prestigious jewelers
• Distinguished during the Civil War - turned jewelry maker.
• Small versions of European style diamond jewelry items, bows, flowers, leaves, etc.
1876
• B, S & F moved to 251 Fifth Ave NY
• Cortland Starr & Aaron Frost became partners Black, Starr & Frost
1920
• Black, Starr & Gorham
1929
• Merged with Gorham


René Boivin

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Vertical Lozenge
RB with Snake Symbol
René Boivin
(1864-1917)
e. c.1890
Paris
• Use of Uncommon combinations of materials: i.e. wood and pearls
• Bold use of colored gemstones
• Large bold striking designs



Boucheron

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Boucheron
e.1858
Paris
Historically
• Lacy gold metalwork
Plique-a-jour enamelling
• Faultless Craftsmanship
c.1930s-40s
• Popularized detachable dress clips


Brandt

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Brandt
e. c.1906
• Geometric designs
• abstract compositions (Circular Motifs)
• Noted for enamel & lacquer use and engraved precious gems


Breguet

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Breguet
e.1775
Switzerland
• Watchmaker to the Courts of Europe


Brogden, John

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
John Brogden
1842-1885
London
Ancient, Egyptian and Renaissance revival-style jewelry


Buccellati

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
15 MI
Buccellati
Mario Buccellati
e.1919
Milan
Worldwide
• Improvisational use of materials during WWII "Dutch Gold" over copper, chipped gems mounted upside down
• Easily recognized style with distinct textures and engravings


Bucherer

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Bucherer
e.1888
Lucerne
• High Quality Jewels


Bulgari

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Bulgari
e.1857
Rome
Historically
Necklaces
Bracelets
Buckles and Belts
• Style based on classicism & Renaissance gold work
• Emphasis on wearable jewels


J.E. Caldwell

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
J.E. Caldwell
e.1839
Philadelpha
• Fine Art Deco & Art Nouveau jewels


Capdevila Massana, Manuel

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Manuel Capdevila Massana
Joaquim - e.1918
Bacelona
• Manuel was a jeweler and a painter


Carrera y Carrera

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Carrera y Carrera
e.1885
Spain
• Historically: Jewelers to society & aristocracy
• Known for fine workmanship and sculptural design


Cartier

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Cartier
e.1847
Paris e.1847
London e.1902
New York e.1909
1852
• Egyptian scarab design
1856
• Princess Mathilde became a customer
1873
• Egyptian Revival pushed Cartier to the pinnacle of the world of jewelry
1902
• London branch established
1904
• Royal Warrant: King Edward VII, England
• Royal Warrant: King Alfonso XIII, Spain
• Queen Alexandra of England wears the Resille necklace
1905
• Royal Warrant: King Carlos I of Portugal
1906
• Production in the Art Deco style began
1908
• Royal Warrant: King Paramindr Maha Chulalongkorn, Siam
1909
• New York branch opens
• Royal Warrant: King George I, Greece
1910
• Sale of the Hope Diamond
1913
• First Mystery Clock
1914
• Royal Warrant: Duke Philippe d'Orleans
1917
• Two strands of natural pearls traded for mansion at 653 Fifth Avenue
1921
• Royal Warrant: King Edward VIII
1924
Trinity Ring and Bracelet
1933
• Jeanne Toussaint The Panther became Director of Fine Jewelry
1936
• Royal Warrant: Prince Louis II, Monaco
1942
Caged Bird Jewel
1944
Freed Bird Jewel
• Panther Brooch ordered by the Duchess of Windsor
1969
Cartier Taylor-Burton Diamond sold to Richard Burton
1970
Love bracelet
1997
• 150th anniversary


Carvin French

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Carvin French
e.1954
New York
• Manufacturing for the Finest Jewelers
Verdura
• Donald Claflin
• R. Esmerian, Inc.
Yard
• French Trained Jewelers
• Master enamelists
Lapidary
Carved Gems for
• Donald Claflin
• Angela Cummings


Castellani

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Castellani
e. c.1816
Rome
c.1860s Paris & London
1826
• Began production jewelry based on early Roman excavations
1848
• Closed temporarily due to the Italian political climate
1858
• Alessandro and Augusto Castellani re-opened the workshop
1860s
• Became a tourist destination for Archeological Revival jewelry
1930
• Closed after the death of Alfredo


C.D. Peacock

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
C.D. Peacock
e.1837
Chicago
• Chicago Fine Jewelry Retailer
Historically
Arts & Crafts Jewelry


Chanel

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Chanel
e.1910
Paris
1921
• Chanel No.5 became the first couture perfume
1927-1933
Verdura collaborates with Chanel on jewelry design
1930
Maltese Cross design
1932
Diamond jewelry launched
1939-1945
• Closed during the Occupation
1971
• Death of Coco Chanel


Chantecler

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Chantecler
e.1947
Capri
Coral jewelry
• Jet-set and famous clientele


Charlton & Co.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Charlton & Co.
1909
New York
Currently
• Grant A. Peacock, New York


Chaumet

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Chaumet
e. 1793 Nitot et Fils
Paris
1910 New York
• Princess Josephine
• Hydrangea parure
Cameo & intaglio parure
• Pearl parure
1832
• Fossin & Fils named "Crown Jewellers" of France
1837
• Awarded Legion d'Honneur
1834-1840
• Jean Valentin worked for Fossin
• Royal Warrant: Queen Victoria - to the Morels
• Morel's daughter married Joseph Chaumet
1900
• Russian Imperial Order
• Became known as the Master of Tiaras
1910
• Opens in New York
1928
• 150th anniversary
1972
• Remounted the Sancy Diamond
1987
• End of Chaumet family involvement in the firm


Child & Child

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Child & Child
1891-1915
London
Renaissance Revival
Art Nouveau
Edwardian Jewelry
Specialty
Enamelwork


Chopard

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Chopard
e.1860
Sold in 1963 to the Scheufeles
Switzerland
• Precision Watches
• Ladies Fine Jewelry


Christian Dior

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Christian Dior
e. December 16, 1946
Paris
1950s
• Couture "New Look"
1950
• Added other luxury goods including jewelry


Christofle

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Christofle
e.1830
Paris
1845
• Expansion included tableware
1930
• Commission for jewelry from Marchak


Cipullo

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Cipullo
(1936-1984
Rome & New Hork
Assistant Designer
• David Webb
Designer for
• Tiffany & Co.
• Cartier
1969
• Designed Love Bracelet
• Design Themes: Nails, Dollar Signs, Knots and Rope


Claflin, Donald

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Donald Claflin
( - 1979
New York
Designer for
Webb
Tiffany & Co.
• Design Themes: fantasy, children's characters, fairy tales, strawberrys
Bulgari


Cocteau, Jean

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Jean Cocteau
(1889 - 1963)
Paris
• Avant-Garde Artist


Cohen, Julius

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Julius Cohen
e.1956
New York
Trained by
Oscar Heyman & Bros.
• Well Designed and Executed Fine Jewelry
• Renowned for Serving Customers at Home


Colonna, Edouard

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Edouard Colonna
(1862 - 1948)
New York
Worked for
Louis Comfort Tiffany
Associated with
• S. Bing and Maison d'Art Nouveau as Jewelry & Glassware Designer


Cummings

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Cummings
(1944 -
Angela Cummings Inc. e.1984
New York
Designer
Tiffany & Co.
1984
• Launched Angela Cummings Inc.


Cusi

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Cusi
e. 1886
Milan
• Jeweler to the Royal Family, Duke of Aosta and Count of Turin
1929
• Opened a Branch near the San Remo Casino


Dali

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Dali
(1904 - 1989)
Spain
• Made Jewelry to Protest the Emphasis on Cost of Materials vs Design in Jewelry '
My object is to show the jeweler's art in true perspective - where the design and craftsmanship are to be valued above the material worth of the gems, as in Renaissance time.
• Surrealist Design


David Orgell

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
David Orgell
c. late 1800s
England
c.1940 Los Angeles
1958 Beverly Hills, CA
• Retailer of Fine Jewelry, Timepieces & Objets d’Art


De Grisogono

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
De Grisogono
e.1993
Geneva International
• Black Diamond Jewelry


Deakin & Francis

Jewelry Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Stamped Mark
Deakin & Francis
1786 - present
Great Britain
• Silversmiths
• Manufacturers
Historically
• High Quality Handmade Jewelry with Enamel
Cuff Links
Designer
Arthur Edward Harvey


Descomps

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Descomps
(1872 - 1948)
Paris
• Jewelry Featuring Engraving & Enamels


Despres

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Despres

France
Art Deco Artiste-Bijoutier
Bijoux Glaces Mirrored Jewelry
Bijoux Moteurs Motor Jewels
1930
Chevalier de la Legion d'Honneur


Dinh Van

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Dinh Van
e.1976
Paris
1960s
• Employed by Cartier
• Bold Geometric Cut-Out Designs


Dixon, James W.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
James W. Dixon
e.1806
c.1992
London
• Silversmiths
• Platers
Britannia Metal Work
• Staybright & Firth Markings on Stainless


Drayson

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Drayson
e.1936
Art Deco
• High Quality, Innovative, Elegant Jewelry
c.1930s
• Abstract Sculptural Jewels


Dunand

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Dunand
(1872 - 1942)
Geneva & Paris
• Japanese Lacquerwork, Art Deco Wide Gold Bangles
• Tapastry Effect with Silver, Lacquer, and Stone


Dunay

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Henry Dunay
(1935 - )
e.1956
New York
• Specialty Pavé-Set Jewelry


Dusausoy

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Dusausoy
e.1840
c.1970
Paris
• Versatility was their Hallmark - many Combinations Possible for Each Piece of Jewelry.


Edward Moore

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Edward Moore
1851 - 1891
Director of Tiffany & Co. Silver Workshops
New York
• Award Winning Silver Designs for Tiffany & Co.
Japanesque Jewelry & Archaeological Revival Jewels


Eliakim

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Eliakim
c.1940s & 50s
Cairo
• Most Renowned Jewelry Salon in Cairo


Esmerian

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Esmerian
e.1890
Paris
New York
• Historically: Pioneering Colored Stone Cutting


Espezel

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Espezel

Paris
• Manufacturing Jeweler Contracting with many of the most Prominent Twentieth Century Jewelers


Nielsen, Evald

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Stamped Signature
Evald Nielsen
(1879-1958)
Denmark
• Silversmith
• Trained as an Engraver & Chaser
• S.L. Jacobson Represented his work Worldwide
Designer for
Georg Jensen


Faberge

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Faberge
(1846 - 1920)
Russia
• 1884 First Imperial Easter Egg Royal Warrant Awarded
• 1897 Royal Warrant from Sweden & Norway
• Shut Down by the Russian Revolution


Falize

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Falize
(1839 - 1897)
Paris
Cloisonné Jewelry
1878
Legion d'Honneur and Grand Prix at the Exposition Universelle
c.1880-1892
• Partnersihp with Germain Bapst Forming Bapst & Falize
• Lucein Falize's Sons form Falize Freres c. 1897
1900
Falize Freres win Grand Prix at the Exhibition
1904
• Serbian Crown Jewels


Paulding Farnham

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Paulding Farnham
(1859 – 1927)
Rome
• Fine Jewelry
Enameled Orchids – 6 Gold Medals
1885
• Joined the Design Department at Tiffany & Co.



Fasano

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Fasano
1928
Turin
• Flower and Animal Motifs - Pheasant was their Trademark
Enamel, Gold, Steel and High Quality Gemstones


Feuillatre

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Feuillatre
(1870 - 1916)
Paris
• Famous for his Enamel Work
1890
• Head of Lalique Enamel Workshop



Flato

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Flato
(1900 - 1999)
New York
Beverly Hills
Mecixo City
c.1920s
• New York
• Designers included Adolph Kleaty, George Headley and Fulco di Verdura
• Whimsical Jewelry "Say it in Jewelry"
1937
• Beverly Hills Location Serving Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich and others
1970
• Mexico City


Fontana

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Fontana
e.1840
Paris
• Classical Design
• Fine Workmaship
Chaumet Holds their Archives


Fontenay

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Fontenay
(1823 - 1887)
Paris
• Apprenticed with Marchand
• Excellent Goldsmith
• Supurb Archaeological Revivial Style Jewelry with Enamel


Fouquet

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Fouquet
e. c.1852 - 1936
(Alphonse 1828 - 1911)
(Georges 1862 - 1957)
(Jean 1899 - 1961)
Paris
Art Nouveau & Art Deco Styles
• Extensive use of Enamel and Colored Stones


Fred

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Fred
e.1936
Paris
Beverly Hills
Houston
New York
Geneva
Tokyo
Hong Kong
Cannes
Monte Carlo
Seoul
Pearls and Colored Gemstones
• Celebrity Clients


Gage

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Gage

London
Gold and Colored Gemstones, Baroque Pearls
• Use of Ancient Elements in Contemporary Design


Gaillard

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Gaillard
e. 1860
Paris
• Japanese-Style Inlay
Enamel, Niello & Patination
Art Nouveau Jewels with Insects, Flowers & Trees - Featuring Organic Materials
1889
• International Exhibition, Paris - Gold Medal for Engraving and "Legion d'Honnour
1892
• Business Transferred to Sons


Garrard

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Garrard
e.1722
London
1802
• Robert Garrard Purchased the Business from George Wickes
1843
• Queen Victoria Appointed them Jewellers to the Crown
1910
• Refashioned the Sceptre to hold the Cullinan I
1937
• Created the Coronation Crown for Queen Elizabeth with the Koh-i-Noor
1981
• Supplied Princess Diana's Sapphire and Diamond Engagement Ring


Gazdar

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Gazdar
e.1933
Bombay
• Quality Gemstones and Natural Pearls
• Popular with Hollywood Stars


Geiss

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Geiss
(1771 1846)
Berlin
Berlin Iron Jewelry
Gothic Revival Iron Jewelry of Individual Motifs


Gérard

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Gérard
e.1968
Paris
• Originally Worked for Van Cleef & Arpels
• Largest French Jewelry Exporter
1985
• Sold to American Investors
1988
• Reopened in Paris as Louis Gérard, Joaillier International


Ghiso

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Ghiso
e. c.1890s - c.1960s
Buenos Aires
c.1900-c.1940s Paris Branch
? - C.1940s New York
• Used Freelance Designers - Exported to Buenos Aires and New York


Giuliano

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Guliano-sig.jpg
Giuliano
e.1874-1914 (own shop)
c.1860 London
1860-1874
• Outsourced to Hunt & Roskell, C.F. Hancock & Robert Phillips
Renaissance Revival Style
• Lozenge-shaped Pendants
Champlevé, Basse-Taille and en Ronde Bosse Enamel
1895
• Carlo Giuliano dies and sons Carlo Joseph and Arthur Alphonse ran the business until 1914


Golay Fils & Stahl

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Golay Fils & Stahl
e.1837
Geneva
1896
• King Carol I of Romania
• Jeweler the Royal Family of Romania
• Other Royal Customers: Kim Damrong of Siam and the Maharajah of Baroda.
1961
• Purchased by Jacques Wolfgang - A Longtime Vendor to the Firm
1976
• Jesse Wolfgang Took Ownership


Graff

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Graff
e.1960
London
Specialized in the World's Finest Diamonds
• Star of Bombay
Emperor Maximilian
Idol's Eye
Wittelsbach


Grima

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Andrew Grima
(1921 - 2007)
e.966 London
e.1970 New York
e.1971 Zurich
e.1972 Tokyo<e.1987 Lugano
e.1992 Gstaad
• Organic forms, textured wire
1970
• Appointed jeweler to the Queen


Gübelin

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Gübelin
e.1854
Lucerne
• Began as Watchmakers
1923
• Added jewelry & established an international gemological laboratory
2004
• Celebrated 150 years in business


Gustav Manz

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Gustav Manz
(1865-1946
New York City
• Worked for Tiffay & Co., Marcus & Co., Cartier and many others
• Workshop in Rockefeller Center (Union Square)
• Prominent clients


Hagenauer

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Hagenauer
e.1898
Vienna
• Hagenauer workshop
• Gold and silversmith
• Belonged to the Wiener Werkstatte
• Designed until his death in 1986


Hale, Frank G.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Frank Gardner Hale
(1876-1945)
Chicago
1906
Guild of Handicraft with C.R. Ashbee
London
• Worked with Frederick Partridge
1907
• Boston: Society of Arts and Crafts


Hammerman

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Hammerman
e. 1946
New York
• High quality well manufactured jewelry


Harry Winston

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Harry Winston
(1896-1978)
New York
• Created platinum settings for gemstones that were fflexible
• Bought and sold many famous gems and jewelry collections
• Made major gemstone donations to museum collections.


Hemmerle

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Hemmerle
e.1893
Munich
  • Originally Produced Medals and Ornaments for the Bavarian Court
  • Noted for Enamel and Filigree Work


Hennel

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Hennel
e.1736
London
Origins
• Silverware manufacturers
• Evolved into an important pearl dealer


Hermès

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Hermès
e.1837 (Harness Makers)
Paris
1922
• Began Creating Women's Handbags
1929
• Fashion Apparel
1930s
• Designed "The Scarf"



Hoeker & Zoon

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Hoeker en Zoon
(Hoeker & Son)
(1862-c.?
Amsterdam
• Silversmiths
• Manufacturing/retailing jewelry


Hunt & Roskell

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Hunt & Roskell
e.1843 c.1897
London
• Fine watches and jewelry


Jaeger Lecoultre

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Jaeger Lecoultre
e.1833
Le Sentier, Vaud, Switzerland
• Fine watches & clocks
1844
• Created the millionometer
1847
• Invented push device eliminating watch keys
1866
• Began manufacturing movements
1902
• Movements for Patek Philippe
1937
• Jaeger-Lecoultre merger


Janesich

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Janesich
e. c.1835
1835 Trieste
1896 Paris
Trieste
Early
• Jewelry & silverware
Later
• Gems and pearls
Clients
Bulgari,
• Vever
Boucheron
Tiffany & Co.
• Return to Trieste producing jewelry & objet


JAR

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
JAR
e.1977
Paris
• Joel Arthur Rosenthal (New York)
• Unique jewelry and gemstones


King, Arthur

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Arthur King
c.1960s-70s
New York
Miami
Paris
Havana
London
• Goldsmith
Lost Wax Casting
• Naturalistic forms
Baroque pearls, gemstones and colored diamonds


Kutchinsky

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Kutchinsky
c.1890s
London
• Polish immigrant family
• Jewelers to the court of Ludwig of Bavaria
• Instrumental in the use of Platinum in fine jewelry
1991
• Bought by Moussaieff


L'Enfant, Georges

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Georges L'Enfant
c.1950s-1970s
Paris
• Goldsmith
• Manufacturing jeweler
• Bright polish and texture alternating style
Workmaster
Cartier
Gubelin
Tiffany & Co.
Boivin


Lacloche Frères

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Lacloche Frères
e.1875
1875 Madrid
1892 Paris
1904
• Acquired Edwin Streeter's inventory including the Agra Diamond
1912
• Bought Faberge's London store and inventory
1920s-30s
• Fine jewelry, clocks, Objets d’Art
• Known for the jabot pin
1935
• Lacloche Frères closed
• Jacques Lacloche opened a store in Cannes
1938
• Jacques used the name SARL and opened in Paris, buying from Georges Verger
Post War
• Designs for Americans
1960
• Closed


Lalaounis

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Ilias Lalaounis
c. 1940 - Joined Zolotas
1969 Ilias Lalaounis Founded
Greece
• Ran the Family Business, Zolotas
1957
• Began production of designs inspired by ancient Greece
1969
• Ilias Lalaounis became a separate company
Currently
• Run by Ilias Lalaounis' daughters


Lalique

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Lalique
(1860-1945)
Paris
1876
• Apprentice to Louis Aucoc
1878
• Studied graphic design in London
1882
• Independent jewelry designer
1884
• Two years with Varenne (Signed Lalique & Varenne)
1885
• Begins fabricating in the style that would make him famous
1887
Boucheron buys 'Flight of Swallows' Parure
1889
Exposition Universelle features his work anonymously in Verver and Boucheron's Displays
1892
• Begins to use glass
• Designer of jewelry for Sarah Bernhardt & Maison de l'Art Nouveau
1897
• Legion of Honour's Croix de Chevalier
1900 Lalique displays at Universal Exhibition (Paris) to great acclaim
1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels exhibits "The Springs of France"
• Begins manufacturing objet and statuettes in the "Lalique" Style
• After his death firm Run By Son Marc then Marie-Claude


Le Sache, Georges

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
LS in Horizontal Lozenge
Le Sache, Georges
(1849-)
Paris
Designer
• With Falize
• Manufacturing Jeweler for Bijouterie & Joaillerie

Not

Le Roy et Fils

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Le Roy et Fils
e.1785
Paris

1789
• Bazile-Charles Leroy Founded House of Le Roy.
Clockmaker to
• Emperor Napoleon.
• Madam Mère.
• The Duke of Bourbon.
• Princess Pauline.
1823
• Patent filed for a self-winding atmospheric clock operated by a weathervane.
1828
• Partnered with his son Charles-Louis.
1836
• Appointed Purveyor to the King and the Duke d'Orléans.
1840
• Patent for wind clocks.
1845
• Assigned the business to clockmaker Casimir Halley Desfontaines conditional upon him retaining the name.
1865
• Death of Charles-Louis Leroy.
1879
• Louis Leroy joined the business.
1898
• Business renamed Ancienne Maison Le Roy et Fils. L. Leroy et Cie successeurs.
1897
• Ultra-complicated watch no. 1 begun - completed in 1904.
1904
• Grand Prize at the St. Louis exhibition.
1930
• Made an Officer of the Legion of Honour.
1935
• Death of Louis Leroy.
1961
• Death of Léon Leroy.
• Pierre and Philippe Leroy took over the firm.


Leysen

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Leysen
e.1855
Brussels

1855
• Louis Leysen founded "Fabrique de Bijoux.
1920
• Run by Louis, Henri & Charles.
• New residence on rue Marche aux Poulets.
• Many prominent clients.
1950
• Headed by Jacques & Pierre.
1872
• Henri Leyson (son of Jacques) continues the tradition.
1982
• Official Supplier by Appointment to the Court of Belgium.


Liberty & Co.

Jewelry Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Stamped Mark
Liberty & Co.
e.1875
Great Britain
• Retailers & Organizers of Jewelry Design & Production
• Cymric Silver
• Tudric Pewter
Manufacturers
W.H. Haseler & Co.
Designers
• Oliver Baker
Bernard Cuzner
Christopher Dresser
Arthur Joseph Gaskin
Albert Edward Jones
• J.M. King
Archibald Knox


Longines

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Longines
e.1832
Saint-Imier, Canton of Bern

1832
• Saint-Imier watchmakers established by Auguste Agassiz.
1846
• Agassiz heads the company and opens the market to the United States to great success.
1852
• Ernest Francillon joins the firm eventually taking it over.
1867
Es Longines the Longines factory opens.
• Produces the first movement, 20A.
• Wins a award at the Universal Exhibition, Paris.
1876
• Jacques David attends the Universal Exhibition in Philadelphia and returns to inspire the industrialization of Swiss watchmaking.
• Longines pioneers mechanized production.
1878
• By means of its newly mechanized production, Longines produces a simple chronograph, the 20H.
1881
• Longines chronographs produced for Americans are purchased by horse racing aficionados.
1886
• Longines is supplying the majority of New York Sports officials.
1888
• Produces a certified chronometer, the 21.59 calibre.
1889
• Logo is registered.
1893
• Logo registered with the United International Bureaux for the Protection of Intellectual Property (forerunner of WIPO).
1899
• Longines equips Prince Luigi Amedeo of Savoie for his Artic expedition.
1900
• GranPrix at the Universal Exhibition, Paris for La Renommée pocket watch.
1913
• First calibre for a wristwatch.
1916
• Begins development of shaped movements for wristwatches.
1919
• Longines begin development of navigation instruments for aviators.
1927
• Weems Second-Setting Watch for Navigation.
1931
• Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch to be used with a sextant and nautical almanac.
1936
• 13ZN calibre wristwatch patented.
1945
• Longines patents its first self-winding movement, the 22A.
1954
• Longines first quartz clock.
• Used with a 16mm camera to record race finishes for officials.
1969
• First cybernetic quarts calibre - Ultra-Quartz.
1972
• Longines LCD Watch.
• Currently in operation with the same Maker's Mark.


Louis Comfort Tiffany

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Louis Comfort Tiffany

New York

1881
• Patented opalescent window glass.
1885
• Opened the Tiffany Glass Company.
1894
• Patented Favrile Glass.
1900
• Grand Prize at the International Exhibition, Paris.
c.1902
• Went to work in the design department at Tiffany & Co.
• First Director of Design for Tiffany & Co.
Motifs
• Dragonfiles
• Flowers
• Vines
• Mythology
Mediums
• Enamel
• Gemstones
1933
• Death of Louis Comfort Tiffany.


Mappin & Webb

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Mappin & Webb
e.1869
London

1774
• Jonathan Mappin opened a small cutlery workshop in Sheffield.
1775
• The first Mappin Silver Maker's Mark was registered.
1849
• First London showroom was opened.
• Jonathan's four great grandsons took over the company.
1860
• John Mappin (the youngest grandson) broke away and formed Mappin & Company.
1868
• John Newton Mappin joined with George Webb to establish Mappin & Webb.
Noted for
• Fine silver, jewelry, watches and clocks.
1903
• John purchased Mappin Brothers.
1990
• Joined the Asprey group.
Currently
• Privately owned by the retail group Aurum Holdings.


Marchak

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Marchak
e.1878
Kiev
Paris
1878
• Joseph Marchak set up a jewelry and goldsmith's workshop.
1889
• Joseph attends the Universal Exhibition in Paris which had a powerful influence on his work.
1894
• Marchak wins a Gold Medal in Antwerp.
1900.
• Marchak wins a Sliver Medal at the Paris Exhibition.
1905
• Marchak wins Gran Prix at the Liege Universal and International Exhibition.
1913
• Alexandre Marchak joins the firm.
1917
• Known as the "Cartier of Kiev" Marchak employed 1850 workers.
1918
• Death of Joseph Marchak.
1919
• Alexandre sets up the "Joseph Marchak" jewelry business in Paris.
1922
• Partnership with Robert Linzeler creating famous Art Deco jewels.
1925
• Gran Prix at the Exposition des Arts Decoratifs.
• Partnership with Linzeler dissolved.
1946
• Alexander Diringer, previously of Cartier and Sterlé was hired as head designer.
1946
• Jacques Verger joined the firm.
1957
• Alexander Marchak left the firm - bought out by Verger.
1960-1987
• Bertrand Degommier is partner and designer.
1988
• Verger sold to Baum.
2003
• The firm is renewed by relatives of Alexandre and Joseph in conjunction with designer Bertrand Degommler with a new collection.


Marcus & Co.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Marcus & Co.
1892
New York
Paris
Palm Beach
London
Herman Marcus departed Germany for New York c. 1850s.
Worked for
Tiffany & Co.
Ball, Black and Company.
Parthered with
Theodore B. Starr - Starr and Marcus.
1884
• Partnered with his son William.
1892
• Marcus & Company.
1920s-30s
• Created Diamond Jewelry.
Plique-à-Jour enamel in the Art Nouveau Style.
• Flower Brooches.
1962
• Merged with Black, Starr & Frost.


Marilyn Cooperman

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Marilyn Cooperman

Shows Internationally
• 20th Century Fashion Designer.
1987
• Joined Fred Leighton as a designer.
1994
• Launched her own company.


Marina B.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Marina-b-sig.jpg
Marina B.
e.1977
Geneva
Monte Carlo
Gstaad
St. Moritz
Milan
London
Tokyo
New York
• Granddaughter of Sottiro Bulgari, founder of Bulgari.
1973
• Constantino (her father) died and Anna & Marina took control of Bulgari.
1977
• Branded herself as Marina B.
1978
• Opened A showroom in Geneva.
1986
• Opened a boutique in New York.
2010
• Line is being revived by Windsor Jewels who purchased it from Ahmed Fitaihi.
• The designs are being crafted by the jewelers trained by Marina B.


Marzo

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Marzo

Paris

• Art Deco Jewelers.


Masriera, Lluis

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Lluis Masriera
(1872-1958)
Barcelona

1839
• Masriera firm founded in Barcelona by his grandfather.
1879
• Studied at Ecole des Beaux Arts, Geneva where he learned enameling.
1888
• International Exposition, Barcelona.
• Gold Medal.
• Influenced by Lalique.
1895-1910
Artistic Alphabet designed.
1900
• Centennial Exhibition reportedly influenced Masriera to melt his stock and start again in the French Art Nouveau style.
1915
• Partnered with jeweler Carreras to form Masriera Hermanos y Joquin Carreras, later Masriera i Carreras.
Currently
Bagués-Masriera.


Mauboussin

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Mauboussin
e.1827
Paris

:; 1827
• M. Rocher, artisan jeweler, establishes jewelry shop with Jean-Baptiste Noury.
1873-1878
• Participation in Expositions in Vienna and Paris.
• Mauboussin is given a medal in Paris, 1878.
1925
Exposition des Arts Décoratifs, Paris
• Grad Prix for the House of Mauboussin.
1928-1931
• A trio of gemstone themed exhibitions.
• 1928 Emerald
• 1930 Ruby
• 1931 Diamond
1940-1950
• Gaspipe style using minimal gold.
• Naturalist themes.
1955
• Opens in Place Vendôme.
• Mauboussin has retail locations around the world.


Maurice Duvalet

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Maurice Duvalet



• French born designer. Worked in conjunction with Van Cleef & Arpels.
• Ballerina brooches.


McTeigue & Co.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
McTeigue & Co.
e.1895
New York

• Specialty jewelry manufacturers.
• High Quality with fine designs.
Clients
Tiffany & Co.
J.E. Caldwell.
C.D. Peacock.
Black, Starr & Frost.
Shreve, Crump & Low.
1990
• McTeigue & Co. bought by Tiffany & Co.


Meister

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Meister
e.1897
Zurich

1897
• Founded by Emanuel Peter.
• Invented the seamless wedding ring.
1950
• Crested and monogrammed rings.
1965
• Happiness brand wedding rings.
Meister Brand
• Wedding rings.
• Jewelry collection.
• Men's accessories.


Mellerio dits Meller

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Mellerio dits Meller
e.1613
Paris
1815 - Rue de la Paix
End of 19th century - Place Vendôme
Royal Clients
• Marie Antionette.
• First royal client.
Other Clients
• Celebrities.
• Intellectuals.
• Designed & created sporting awards.
International Expositions.
• London World Exhibition, 1862.
• Paris, 1867.
• Vienna, 1873.
• Paris, 1878 & 1900.
Exposition des Arts Decoratifs, 1925.
• New York World's Fair, 1939.


Mikimoto

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Mikimoto
e.1878
Japan

1888
• Experiments began in pearl culturing.
1893
• First hemispherical pearls were produced.
1899
• First boutique in Ginza.
1913
• Stores established internationally.
1916
• A patent for culturing spherical pearls was granted.
• Mikimoto purchased the rights to Mise-Nishikawa method which he then perfected.
1931
• First South Sea Pearl was cultured.
1954
• Death of Kokichi Mikimoto.
• Mikimoto cultured pearls are still popular on the world market today.
• The leading pearl farms are in Japan, China, Australia & Thailand.


Mortimer & Hunt

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
ISH Punch
Later IM & ISH with and without a surmounting crown
Mortimer & Hunt
e.1838
London

1838
• After Paul Storr retired from Storr & Mortimer, John Hunt joined the firm.
1843
• John Mortimer retired and Hunt & Roskell was founded.


Movado

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Movado
e.1881
La Chaux-de-Fonds

1881
• Founded by Achilles Ditesheim.
1905
• Re-named Movado (translates "always in motion.")
1912
• Polyplan
• Follows contour of the wrist.
• Movement on 3 planes.
1926
• Ermeto
• Pillow-shaped pocket watch.
• Movement wound by opening and closing the case.
1930s
• Movado Digital Watch with hours and minutes windows.
1946
• Calendomatic
• Month, day and central date.
1947
• Movado Museum Watch.
• Single dot watch dial.
1956
• Kingmatic
• Automatic rotor-driven wristwatches.
1970
• Datron Chronograph.


Nardi

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Nardi
c.1920s
Venice, Italy

1920s
• Giulio Nardi founded Nardi in the Piazza San Marco.
• Techniques inspired 18th century Venetian goldsmiths.
1931
• Began to make brooches inspired by the Venetian Moretto
• Alberto Nardi took over from Giulio Nardi.
Famous for
Blackamoor brooches.
• Inspired by Othello - the Moor of Venice a symbol of purity and love.
Carved from
• Ebony.
Sardonyx.
Chalcedony.
• Many celebrity clients.


Omar Ramsden

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Omar Ramsden
e.1898
closed 1939


1887
• Apprenticed at a Sheffield silversmith.
1888
• Won prizes and awards a the Sheffield School of Art.
• Met Alwyn Carr.
1898
• Ramsden and Carr registered their mark at Goldsmith's Hall, London.
• Designed Art Nouveau jewelry, influenced by medieval and contemporary designs.
1919
• Firm dissolved and Ramsden continued in a more traditional style.
1939
• Death of Ramsden.


Oscar Heyman & Bros.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Engraved Archive Number
Later a Stamped Logo
<centerOscar Heyman & Bros.>e.1912

</center>
New York

1901
• Apprenticed with their uncle, a workmaster for Fabergé.
1906
• The family moved to New York.
• Skilled in platinum work, they were uniquely trained and highly desirable.
1909
• Oscar went to work for the newly opened Cartier, New York.
1912
• Oscar Heyman & Brothers was opened at 49 Maiden Lane.
• Supplied high quality platinum jewelry to the trade.
Jeweler's Jeweler for
Cartier.
Van Cleef & Arpels.
Marcus & Co.
Tiffany & Co.
1916-1942
• Secured 7 patents including:
• Secure invisible bracelet clasp.
• Security pin for double-clip brooches.
• Nearly exclusive US supplier of invisibly set jewels to Van Cleef & Arpels.
1969
• Created the necklace for Cartier to highlight the Taylor-Burton Diamond.
Today
• Still a family run operation employing many relatives of the original team.
Specialties
• Handcrafted, signed and numbered jewelry pieces.
• Unique and esoteric gemstones and phenomenal gems, cut and polished in their own workshop.


Ostertag

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Ostertag
c.1920-30s
Paris
Place Vendôme
• French Jeweler.
• Thought to rival the work of Cartier, VCA & Boucheron.


Ostier, Inc.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Ostier, Inc.
c.1938
New York

• Award winning jewelers.
1969
• Closed, Inventory sold by Parke-Bernet Galleries.


Paloma Picasso

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Paloma Picasso
(1949- )
Born in Paris

• Daughter of artists Pablo Picasso and Françoise Gilot.
• Began as a costume designer.
Designed for
• Yves Saint Laurent.
Zolotas c. 1971.
Tiffany & Co. c. 1980-currently.


Paltscho

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Paltscho
e.1891
Vienna
1891
• Carl Paltscho opened Biedermann & Paltscho.
• Carl's son Erwin convinced him to go out on his own.
• Edwin Paltscho designed hidden elaborate clasps often copied by other famous jewelers.


Patek Philippe

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Patek Philippe
c.1851


• Antoni Patek made pocket watches c.1839.
• Adrien Phillippe invented the keyless winding system.
1851
• Supplied watches to Queen Victoria and Prince Albert.
1868
• Created first wristwatch.
• Pioneered the perpetual calendar.
• Split seconds hand.
• Chronograph.
• Minute repeater.
1932
• Purchased by the Stern family.


Pedro Boregaard

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Pedro Boregaard
e.1983

New York
• Won may international jewelry design competitions.
Designer for
Tiffany c. 1974.


Petochi

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Petochi
e.1884


• A family of jewelers.
• Alberto Petochi Currently producing Roman coin jewelry - the 1884 Collection.
2004
• Sold to a Roman jewelry and luxury firm.


Piaget

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Piaget
e.1874
La Côte-aux-Fées

1874
• Georges Édouard Piaget founded as a high precision watch movement firm.
1911
• Timothée Piaget took over running the firm.
1943
• Gérald and Valentin Piaget registered the brand.
1945
• Built a new manufacturing facility.
1957
• Began to produce ultra-thin movements.
• Calibre 9P - 2mm thick hand wound movement.
1960s
• Calibre 12P - 2.3 mm thick self winding movement.
• Created hardstone dials.
• Cuff watch.
• Began to create jeweled watches and jewelry.
1979
• Polo Watch integrated the case and the bracelet.


Picq, Henri

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Henri Picq

Paris

• Jeweler
Worked for
Cartier - Main supplier from 1900-1918.
• Gem-set platinum jewelry.
• The Picq workshop was the source of Cartier's reputation for fine platinum jewelry.
• Created a series of famous circular motif tiaras convertible to necklaces, brooches and stomachers.
Tutti Frutti jewels.
Lacloche.
Ostertag.


Regner

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Regner
c.1930s
Paris

c.1930s
• Finely crafted jewelry, small production.


René Sim Lacaze

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
René Sim Lacaze



1923
• Joined Van Cleef & Arpels .
• Joint artistic and design director with Renée Rachel Puissant.
Also Designed for
Mauboussin.
Cartier.
Harry Winston.
Sterlé.
Commissions
• Marlene Dietrich.
• Maurice Chevalier.
• The Duchess of Windsor.
1941
• Set up his own studio and contracted with Mauboussin.
1968
• Retired.
2000
• Died at age 99.


Rubel

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
John Rubel Co.
e.1943
New York
London
Paris
• Began as a Parisian manufacturing firm, Rubel Freres, in association with Van Cleef & Arpels.
1943
• Discontinued their affiliation with Van Cleef & Arpels and opened under their own name.
Jewelry designs
Baguette diamond necklaces.
• Dancer brooches.
• Flamenco dancers.
• Rockettes.
• Louis XVI Style.
• Cancan.
Fantasia inspired dancers.
• Flower Brooches with ruby, diamond and turquoise.
• Domed cocktail rings and matching earrings.
Designer
• Maurice Duvalet (shared with VCA.)
1947
• Closed.


Ruser

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Ruser-sig.jpg
Ruser
e.1947
Beverly Hills, CA

• Prior to opening his own shop, Ruser worked for Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin
Specialty
• Freshwater baroque pearl Jewelry.
• Swans.
• Hummingbirds.
• Poodles.
• Skunks.
• Cherubs.
1969
• Closed.


S.J. Rood

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
SJRood Makers Mark.jpg
S.J. Rood
e.1873


Diamond merchants.
• Jewelry Manufacturers.
• Royal Warrant by Queen Mary.
1998
• Sold to Hancocks & Co.


Sabbadini

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Sabbadini
e.1940
Milan
New York
• Design driven high quality Italian jewelry company.
1940
• Founded by Bruno Sabbadini, a gem trader.
• Bruno's son Alberto began designing the jewels to feature his father's gems.
1983
• Opened a New York showroom.
2007
• Opened a boutique in St. Moritz.
• Currently run by Alberto, his wife Stefania and their children, Pierandrea and Micól.


Sandoz, Gustave-Roger

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Gustave-Roger Sandoz
c.1891
Paris

Art Nouveau goldsmith.


Sasportas

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Sasportas

Pairs

• French jewelers.


Saunders Sheperd & Co. Ltd.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Saunders Shepherd & Co. Ltd.
e.1869
London

1869 (as Saunders & Shepherd)
• Company launched
• Specialized in Whitby jet and onyx mourning jewelry.
1889
• Licensed the Krementz one piece collar stud.
• Invented the self-closing bracelet.
1899-1905
Gemstone rings.
Chains.
Goldsmiths.
Silversmiths.
• Exporters of jet, onyx & silver jewelry.
Following WWII
• Moved toward gold manufacturing & diamond jewelry.
1960-61
• Commissioned to make a gold watch to be presented to the Queen.
1981
• Commissioned to make a gold bracelet (20th birthday gift) for the Princess of Wales.
1984
• Emphasis on fine quality gold jewelry.


Schlumberger

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Schlumberger
(1907-1987)


• Costume jewelry designer for Elsa Schiaparelli.
• First designer at Tiffany & Co. to be able to sign his designs.
Designs
• Whimsical
• Butterflies
• Birds
• Sea life
• Flowers
Objets de Vertu
Design Elements
Enamel
• Colorful gemstones


Seaman Schepps

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Schepps-sig.jpg
Seaman Schepps
e.1934
New York
Palm Beach
Nantucket
• Had shops in Los Angeles, San Francisco and New York selling a myriad of goods.
• Became known as an avant-garde jeweler, "America's Court Jeweler."
• Chunky pieces with quantities of colored gemstones.
• Maltese cross brooches, shell earrings chunky bracelets following the styles of other famous jewelers of the day.
Unusual materials
• Gemstones in every color.
• Shell.
• Ivory.
• Turquoise.
• Wood.
• Coral.
• Rock Crystal.
• Found materials.
1940s-50s
• Animal themes.
• Celebrity & Society Clients including the Duchess of Windsor and President Franklin Delano Roosevelt.
1972
• Seaman Schepps died.
• Patricia Schepps Vaill, his daughter continued the tradition.
1992
• The business was sold to Jay Bauer and Anthony Hopenhajm who continue to produce jewelry in the traditional Schepps style using the original molds and designs.


Settepassi

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Settepassi
e.1700
Florence
Milan
• Traditional Italian Jewelers.


Sloan & Co.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Sloan & Co.
e.1895
Newark, NJ
New York
• High Quality Jewelry
1857
• John Alexander Riley established Riley, Douglas & Williamson.
1887
• Frank T. Sloan joined Carter, Sloan & Co. as an office boy.
1887
• After working with various partners, the firm was renamed John A. Riley.
1891
• Frank T. Sloan left Carter, Sloan & Co and, along with Allen A. McDonald, joined the business which became John A. Riley & Sloan Co.
1893
• James M. Bennett of Krementz & Co. joined the firm.
1895
• Sloan was the remaining partner and renamed the firm Sloan & Co.
1896
• His father, Augustus K. Sloan, retired from Carter, Sloan & Co. and joined his son at Sloan & Co.
• Opened a New York office.
1984
• Last time Sloan & Co. was listed in the Jewelers' Circular/Keystone Brand Name and Trademark Guide.



Sterlé

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Sterle-sig.jpg
Sterlé
e.1934
Paris

Manufactured for
Boucheron
Chaumet
• Osterag
• Kirby
• Puiforcat
• Hair & Hat ornaments.
Gold & diamond studded leather goods.
1945
• Becoming very well known
1950s
Many famous clients
• King Farouk, Egypt.
• President El Khoury, Libya.
• President Vargus, Brazil.
• Wife of Maharaja of Baroda.
• Exiled Egyptian Queen, Switzerland.
Awards & designs
Diamond Award from DeBeers.
• Becomes a member of the DeBeers Diamond Corporation.
• Invents Gold Thread
1960s
• Salvador Dali book cover for Livre de L'Apocalypse
• Financial and personal problems required him to sell of many possessions.
• The majority of his work sells through Chaumet.
1969
• Opens his own shop.
1976
• Bankruptcy and stock liquidation (mostely to Chaumet).
• Sterlé becomes a Technical Consultant to Chaumet.
1978
• Sterlé dies.



Storr & Mortimer

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Storr & Mortimer
e.1819
London

• Goldsmiths & Jewelers
• Later became Mortimer & Hunt



Sunyer I. Clara, Ramon

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Sunyer I. Clara, Ramon
(1889-1963)
Barcelona

• Jeweler.
Silversmith.
• Studied with his father, Josep Sunyer i Parera (1850-1919).
• Became a premier jeweler of the Noucentisme - a Catalan cultural movement formed as a reaction against Modernisme.
• Designed Liturgical objects for churches.
1925
• Exhibited at the Exposition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts, Paris.
1936
• Sixth Milan Triennal.
Taught at
Escola d'Arts i Oficis.
Founded
Amics de l'Art Liturgic.
Amics de Gaudi.
Lead
Cercle Artistic de Sant Lluc.



Sunyer, Oriol

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Sunyer, Oriol
(1923-?)
Founded: Barcelona
• Contemporary jewelry designer.



Tabbah

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Tabbah
e.1862
Beirut
1862
• Joseph Tabbah, an engraver specialized in engraving blocks for silk printing, founds Tabbah as a jewelry house.
1925
• Art Deco jewelry production.
1945
• A workshop founded in Bab Idriss (Beirut Central District) later transformed into a boutique.
1950s
• Al Sauds (members of the Saudi ruling family) become patrons.
1957
• King Abdul Aziz Al Saud presents President Eisenhower with a state gift of a jeweled sword made by Nagib Tabbah.
1978
• Nabil moves to Monaco and Tabbah opens a showroom.
1987
• Beret ring launched.
2012
• 150th Anniversary.



Templier, Raymond

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Templier, Raymond
91891-1968)
e.1849
Paris

1919
• Raymond entered the family jewelry business as an "artist-jeweler."
• Wanted to add innovative designs to their traditional lines.
• He became an important figure in the Art Deco movement.
• Personally designed everything with his signature.
• Collaborated with Marcel Pecheron on jewels made by Theodore Lambert.
Founding Member
• UAM-Union des Artistes Modernes.
1925 & 1937
• Participated in the Paris Exhibitions.
1935
• Took over his father's firm.



Templier

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
CT (for Charles Templier)
P&RT (for Paul et Raymond Templier
Always Inscribed
Templier
e.1849
Paris

1849
• Charles Templier founds the firm.
1885
• Paul Templier takes over the firm.
1907
• Paul Templier becomes President of the Chambers of Jewellery of Paris, replacing Louis Aucoc.
1927
• Exhibition of Decorative Arts and Industry, Paris brings acclaim to Raymond Templier for his unique enamel and diamond jewelry.
1933
• Legion d'Honneur awarded to Paul Templier.
1948
• Death of Paul Templier
1968
• Death of Raymond Templier
• Firm also known for unique sport trophies and boxing belts.



Tétard Frères

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Tétard Frères
20th Century
Paris

Silversmith
• Exceptional French Art Deco silversmith.



Theo Fennel

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Theo Fennel
e.1982
London

• Witty, youthful design and quality craftsmanship.
• The craftsmen he employs often employ difficult, arcane techniques that would have died out if not employed in this workshop.



Thesmar, Andre Fernand

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Thesmar, Andre Fernand




Tillander

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
A. Tillander
e.1860
St. Petersburg
Helsinki c.1918
•Classical revival jewelry with filigree and granulation.
1900
•Firm was taken over by the founder's son.
•Exported demantoid.
• Simple, original, high quality jewelry.
1923-1957
•Chief Designer was Oskar Pihliin (son of Faberge's Master)
• Tillader remains a family run jewelry business.



Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin
c.1929-c.1950s
New York
Los Angeles
Mimi Beach
Palm Beach
Beverly Hills
Atlantic City
Chicago
Paris
• Parisian jeweler Mauboussin opened in New York in 1929, merged with Trabert & Hoeffer following the stock market crash.
• Popular with the Hollywood set who loved their large diamond jewelry and accessories.
1930s
Reflections collection of bold yellow gold and colored gemstone jewels



Trabucco

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Trabucco




Treskow, Eisabeth

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Elisabeth Treskow
1898-1992
Germany

• Known for rediscovering granulation techniques used by ancient civilizations.
• Collected ancient jewelry and used it for her inspiration.
1937
• Exposition International des Arts et Techniques - Gold Medal
Collections featuring her work
• The Museum of Decorative Arts, Cologne.
• National Museum, Nuremburg.
• Victoria and Albert Musuem, London.


Van Cleef & Arpels

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Van Cleef & Arpels

Paris
e.1895
New York
Worldwide
1898
• Estelle Arpels weds Alfred Van Cleef.
1906
• Alfred Van Cleef and Charles and Julien Arpels, register the name Van Cleef & Arpels.
• Open at Place Vendome.
1923
• Produce their first white & yellow gold bracelet watch with leather strap.
1925
• Renée Puissant and René Sim Lacaze join the firm as a designers.
• 1st Prize at the Exposition Internationale des Artes Decoratif et Industrials Moderne for "Roses" Bracelet.
1929
• Wall Street crashes and VCA opens it's first New York Store.
1930
Minaudière created.
1931
• 1st Prize at the International Colonial Exhibition.
1933
Mystery Setting patented.
1935
• Creation of the Ludo Hexagone bracelet.
Cadenas watch patented.
1936
• Duke of Windsor orders "Hold Tight" bracelet, "Cravat Necklace" and Houx Clip all with rubies.
1937
• Duke of Windsor orders a Jarretière bracelet with sapphires and baguette and round diamonds for Wallis Simpson to commemorate their "Marriage Contract."
• Wallis Simpson wore the "Eventail" clip at her wedding to the Duke of Windsor.
1938
• First illustrations for the "Zip" necklace are completed.
Passe-Partout necklace created.
• Created Jewelry for the wedding of The Shah of Iran to Princess Fawzia of Egypt.
1939
• Open in Rockefeller Center.
1940
• First "Ballerina" and "Fairy" clips created.
1949
• Pierre Arpels timepiece.
1953
&brul; Jacqueline Bouvier received a VCA engagement ring from John F. Kennedy
1954
La Boutique opened to appeal to younger buyers. It featured cartoon style animal jewelry.
1956
• Created Princess Grace of Monaco’s wedding present.
1968
• First "Alhambra" necklace.
• Jacqueline Kennedy received a VCA engagement ring from Aristotle Onassis.
1976
• "First" a fragrance by VCA launched.
1979
• First Pierre Arpels "Skeleton" watch.
Today
• VCA owned by Richemont.



Verdura

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Verdura
e.1939
New York

1926
• Fulco moves to Paris.
• Worked in the textile department of Chanel.
• Produced costume jewelry for Chanel.
1935
• Went to Hollywood, then New York and worked with Paul Flato.
1939
• Opened his own jewelry business.
1972
• Sold out to Joseph Alfano and retired.
1985
• Verdura Inc. sold to Ward Landrigan.
Influences
• Royal Jewels
• Byzantine art
• The Maltese cross



Verger Frs

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
"FV" until 1911
1911-1935
Lozenge with "VF"
Verger Frs
e.1896

Paris
1879
• Ferdinand Verger worked for Vacheron Constantin (until 1938)
1896
• Ferdinand Verger registered his trademark.
1911
• Sons Henri and George joined the firm.
• Verger Freres
1935-1945
• Georges Verger et fils
1945-1979
• Verger et Co.
Manufactured for
Cartier
Lacloche Frères
Hermès
Van Cleef & Arpels
Tiffany & Co.
Gübelin
Boucheron



Verver

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
An "E and a "V" with an anchor between withing a chevron
Verver
e.1821
Metz
Paris
1821
• Pierre Paul Vever set up business in Metz.
1848
• Jean Jacques "Ernest" inherits the business.
1871
• Verver family leaves Metz as it becomes part of the German Empire.
• Ernest Vever bought the firm "Baugrand" in Paris (an established Parisian jeweler.)
1874
• Sons Paul and Henri become partners in the firm.
1876
• The firm registers their mark (used until 1912.)
1881
• Begin to produce in the Renaissance revival and Oriental styles.
1889
• Paris International Exposition - Jewelry Grand Prize.
1900
• World's Fair Grand Prize for their Art Nouveau Style
• Henri produced Sylvia - an Art Nouveau pendant of a butterfly-winged female (in the collection of the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris.)
Employed Outside artisans
• Etienne Tourette - Enameller.
1915
• Paul dies.
1921
• Henri hands the business to Andre & Pierre - Paul's sons.
1960
• Taken over by Jean Vever (grandson of Paul.)
1982
• Activities ceased.



Valadimir Makovsky

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Small black "M"
Valadimir Makovsky
(1884-1966)


Worked for
Cartier
Van Cleef & Arpels
Black, Starr & Frost
• Specializing in Chinese lacquer and inlaid stone work.



Wander & Co.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Wander
Wander France
Wander & Co.
e.1921
New York

• Jewelry featuring rough, precious and semi-precious carved stones.
• Maintained a branch in Paris during the 1960s & 1970s.



Waslikoff

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Stamped "W" between within a cartouche having a flat top and bottom and wiggly sides
M. Waslikoff & Sons
c.1920s
New York

Diamond and platinum jewelry specialists.
• Flexible platinum bracelets and earrings.



Watherston & Son

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Watherston & Son
e.1796
London

• Goldsmith
• Silversmith
1824
Brogden and Garland
1831
• Garland and Watherston
1841-1864
• Watherston and Brogden
1851
• Exhibitors at the Great Exhibition
1864
• Watherston and Son



Webb

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Stamped "Webb"
David Webb, Inc.
e.1948
New York

• Famous for his "Jeweled Jungle"
1948
• David Webb and Nina Silberstein opened David Webb, Inc. in New York.
1950s-1960s
• Bold flowers and organic forms.
1964
• Duke of Windsor buys a frog bracelet.
1970s
• Began producing more subtle designs to go with less flamboyant times.
1975
• David Webb dies and the Silberstein family continued production of his iconic designs.
2010
• Sold to Sima Ghadamian, Mark Emanuel and Robert Saidian.
• Continuing the tradition drawing on previously unproduced designs from the extensive archives and using the original molds.
• Gem materials and updated functional aspects (earring backs, etc.) distinguish the "old" from the "new."



Weingrill

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Weingrill
e.1879
Italy

• Goldsmiths
• Specializing in tubogas style chains and bracelets.



Wiese

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Stamp rhombus, with initials JW and stars above and below (through 1890)
1895 Rhombus with WIESE and stars above and below.
Wiese
e.1844
1923 closed
Berlin
Paris
1834
• Jules Wiese studied goldsmithing under Johann Georg Hossaeur in Berlin.
1839
• Moved to Paris and worked with Froment-Meurice.
1844
• Established workshop exclusively to produce for Froment-Meurice.
1849
• Paris World Exhibition medal with Froment-Meurice.
• Registers a jewelry maker's mark for his own company.
1855
• Paris World Exhibition First Class Medal for his own neo-classical jewelry.
1862
• London World Exhibition Gold Medal for neo-Renaissance jewelry.
1867
• Bronze medal for Archaeological-Revival jewelry.
1880
• Firm transfered to son, Louis Wiese.



Willmore

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Willmore
e.1773
1855 closed
London

• Silversmiths
• Snuff boxes featuring repoussé lids.



E. Wolfe & Co.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
E. Wolfe & Co.
e.1850
London

• Bird & animal brooches, cocktail & engagement rings, bracelets, necklaces, earrings & cuff links.
19th Century
• Known for tiaras and crowns.
• Queen Alexandra's coronation crown (for Carrington & Co.)
Connaught Diamond Tiara.
• The Imperial Crown of India for Delhi Durbar.
• Cambridge Lover's Knot Tiara.
Russian Fringe Tiara (for Garrard & Co.)
Current Ownership
• Alan & Richard Cornelius.



Wolfers

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Wolfers




Yaeche

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Yaeche

Paris



Yard

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Yard
e.1922
Raymond Yard

New York
1898
• Messenger at Marcus & Co.
• Took jewelry making classes at night and trained at Marcus & Co. during the day.
1902
• Began to string pearls for Marcus & Co.
1906
• Promoted to Salesman working his way to General Manager
1920s
• Established his own firm.
• Created his own distinctive style.
1930s
• Extensive use of platinum.
• High quality gemstones i.e. Kashmir sapphires and Burma rubies.
1940s
• War years resulted in a change to yellow gold and palladium with semiprecious stones.
1950s
• Return to platinum.
• Used some imported French yellow gold mountings for brooches and bracelets.
1958
• Raymond Yard retired. He turned the firm over to 3 of his employees.
1960s
• Moved the firm to 580 Fifth Ave.
• Introduced baguettes set with claws.
• More French mountings used.
• Classic Yard styles and new styles made the firm prosperous.
1970s
• Abstract designs, metal featured.
1989
• Firm taken over by Robert Gibson Jr. (son of one of the 3 Yard employee successors.)



Zanettin

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Zanettin




Zolotas

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Zolotas
e.1895
Efthimios Zolotas

Athens, Greece
• Ancient Byzantine jewelry motifs.
1900
• Opened his "Experimental Laboratory" on Aeolou St., Athens
1910
• Created jewels and tiaras for the Greek Royal family to wear to the coronation of King George V of England.
1960s
• 18k yellow gold historical Greek designs.
• Celebrity & aristocratic clientele.
1970s
• Moved the business to 10 Panepistimiou Ave., where it remains today
• Opened in Paris.
• 22k gold with texture and colored stones.
Lang Antiques
Lang Antiques