Loading...

Aucoc

(1877-1932)

Renowned nineteenth-century French jeweller and goldsmith, Louis Aucoc (1850-1932) was a member of a well-known goldsmith family.1 In 1877, he bought the well-known Parisian firm, Lobjois, and changed its name to La Maison Aucoc. According to jewellery historian Henri Vever, Aucoc “quickly acquired one of the most prominent positions in the trade through his admirable personal qualities.”2 Aucoc’s great skill as a goldsmith and refined aesthetic sensibility undoubtedly contributed to his success as well. Though not particularly innovative, his jewellery—carefully made with the finest of materials— kept directly in step with French fashion. The firm’s Art Nouveau pieces were particularly well regarded; they often feature exquisitely chased gold combined with enameling and finely set diamonds.3 Aucoc is also remembered for his leadership within the jewellery industry. According to Vever, he consistently served on the prize-giving and admissions panels at Paris’s International Exhibitions.4 Another one of Aucoc’s claims to fame is that he taught Art Nouveau revolutionary René Lalique how to work with gold. From 1876-78, Lalique served as an apprentice at La Maison Aucoc.

Carved Horn Comb Decorated with Seed Pearls by Aucoc. c.1905.
Carved Horn Comb Decorated with Seed Pearls by Aucoc. c.1905.

Maker's Marks & Timeline

Aucoc Maker’s Mark
Aucoc Maker’s Mark
Full Screen

Aucoc

Country

City

Paris

Symbol

bird, cartouche, diamond, frame, kite, lozenge, rhombus, rooster, star

Shape

cartouche, diamond, frame, kite, lozenge, rhombus, star

Era

e.1821

Description

Specialties

  • Silversmiths
  • Snuff boxes featuring repoussé lids.
  • Art Nouveau

Founded 1821

  • Louis Aucoc Ainé, Traditional Goldsmith, 6 rue de la Paix

1850 

  • Louis Aucoc (son) born

1877 – Louis Aucoc Fils

  • Opened his own location rue du Quatre Septembre, assumed ownership of Maison Lobjois – “Louis Aucoc Fils”
  • Lalique employed until 1878

1895-1908

  • Active in Chambre syndicale de la Bijouterie-Hoaillerie-Orfévrerie

1932

  • Death of Louis Aucoc

Sources

  • Becker, Vivenne, Art Nouveau Jewellery. New York: E.P. Dutton, 1985. 
  • Bayer, Patricia & Mark Waller. The Art of Rene Lalique. Secaucas: The Wellfleet Press, 1988.
  • Vever, Henri. French Jewelry of the Nineteenth Century. Translated by Katherine Purcell. London: Thames & Hudson, 2001 [1906-8], 1091.

Notes

  1. Vever, 432. Vever mentions the Aucoc family throughout his book. Of particular interest, perhaps, is the fact that the Aucocs were “appointed to the king”, in particular, King Louis Phillipe, and were frequently patronized by other royalty. Here are other details from Vever: “J.-B. Casimir Aucoc aîné specialized in nécessaires and had succeeded Marie in 1821. In 1835, he established himself in the Rue de la Paix and added goldsmith’s work to his repertoire. He was succeeded by Louis Aucoc aîné [the father of young Louis] in 1854, who soon expanded into artistic and gemstone jewelry”
  2. Vever, 1096.
  3. Becker, 90-91.
  4. Vever, 1098.
Close Menu
×