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French-Cut

Art Deco French-Cut Diamond Line Bracelet.
Art Deco French-Cut Diamond Line Bracelet.
The Basic Design of a French-Cut.
The Basic Design of a French-Cut.

The term “French-Cut” does not refer to the country of origin, rather It refers to their shape and design. They are recognized by the typical “cross” the crown facets depict. French-cut stones are square or rectangular multifaceted stones. They are derived from making optimal use of dodecahedral diamond crystals.

A french-cut diamond is created by grinding the top of the crystal to create a table. The remaining crystal faces form natural facets that only need slight modeling to make it a symmetrical cut – as can be seen in the image on the right. The outline is squared and the pavilion is cut to 4 plain facets adjusting the angle of the original faces to allow a high light return. Varieties, where the facets described above are divided in half to create more facets, are common.

French-cut diamonds date back to the beginning of the 1400s but they came into fashion in the 17th century when they were favored by royalty and nobility until the brilliant-cut was first introduced. French-cut diamonds regained popularity during the Art Deco Era where they complimented the regular, geometric designs brilliantly.

Left: the Top View of a Dodecahedron. Right: The Top of a French Cut.
Left: the Top View of a Dodecahedron. Right: The Top of a French-Cut.

Its name is probably derived from the fact that it was more popular in France than anywhere else. You may encounter the term flat-bottomed French-cut. This refers to stones without a pavilion (like a rose cut). Their crowns follow the style of the traditional French-cut.

6.79 Carat French-Cut Diamond, Top View.
6.79 Carat French-Cut Diamond, Top View.
6.79 Carat French-Cut Diamond, Girdle View.
6.79 Carat French-Cut Diamond, Girdle View.
6.79 Carat French-Cut Diamond, Pavillion View.
6.79 Carat French-Cut Diamond, Pavillion View.
6.79 Carat French-Cut Diamond, Angled View.
6.79 Carat French-Cut Diamond, Angled View.

Sources

  • Tillander, Herbert. Diamond Cuts in Historic Jewellery, London, UK, 1995 ISBN 1874044074
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