
A jabot pin is a brooch with a bejeweled motif at either end. It is pinned in such a way that only the decorative ends are seen, allowing the fabric to show in between. Sometimes the two ends are matched and sometimes they differ. One end is fixed while the opposing end is removable and clicks into place to complete the pin. Circa the mid-seventeenth century, jabot pins were used to secure the ruffled or lace piece of fabric (the jabot) that men wore on the front of their shirts. Thus the term jabot pin was coined.
Jabot pins became particularly popular in the 1920s and the 1930s and were fabricated in the Art Deco aesthetic of geometric designs featuring such materials as platinum, diamonds, carved rock crystal, and calibré-cut stones.
Cartier began creating examples of the style just prior to World War I. Their preferred term for these double-ended pins is broches cliquet or cliquet pin. Their justification for referring to these pins as cliquet arises from the evolution of their function from security for a jabot or cravat to embellishment of a lapel or cloche hat.
A quote from Pierre Cartier in the article “Jewelry Forecasts for 1925:”
One of the novelties for the smart woman to wear, especially since the small hat has appeared, is the cliquet brooch. The pin frequently contains extremely valuable pearls and in fact this ornament has become so fashionable that it is worn in the morning made of coral and semi-precious stones, and in the afternoon it is made of pearls and precious stones, especially large pearls.1



Related Reading
Source
- Rudoe, Judy. Cartier 1900-1939. New York, NY: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1997.
Notes
- Cartier, p. 334↵