Black. Though technically a non-color, there is nary a hue so rife with symbolism and a strong conveyance of expression; personal loss, sophisticated style, and power among them. From Queen Victoria’s mourning garb to Coco Chanel’s little black dress to Steve Jobs’s iconic turtleneck, this bold and arresting color has, and continues, to make its singularly distinct mark, not only sartorially but also with the jewelry we wear to adorn ourselves.
Of the black gemstones set in jewelry, the utterly alluring and striking onyx is one of the most favored. A cryptocrystalline quartz in the chalcedony family, onyx, whether banded or solid, has a dramatic appearance that captures the eye when used as accent stones, for cameo carving, or as a glossy expanse in a ring or brooch.
Classic black and white banded onyx is ideal for carving the exquisite, dimensional cameos and intaglios that are small works of art, and, despite early negative associations, has been used to create all manner of exquisite jewelry from ancient times to the present.
A Positive Perspective
Onyx had a bad rap. In 19th-century China, only menial servants mined onyx, merchants were not allowed to sell it, and people refused to even touch it as the stone was said to bring bad dreams and general misfortune. It was even believed that onyx contained evil spirits (oh, my!). Fortunately, these negative associations did not prevail. The positive attributes of onyx—the ability to imbue strength, spiritual power, and to provide protection—date back to the ancient cultures of Egypt, Greece, and Rome. These qualities, along with its mesmerizing beauty, were once again recognized, and the stone was used without restraint for both decor and adornment. Below, a Roman ring features a banded onyx carved intaglio with a scorpion. The Roman who wore this ring had a double dose of defense: an onyx and a fierce arachnid, both known for their protective power.
Mythic Beauty
Onyx’s name is Latin for “fingernail,” or “claw,” and Greek mythology records that one night (while in manicurist mode), Eros trimmed Aphrodite’s fingernails and they turned into the stone known as onyx. Aah, if only all nail clippings turned into gemstones.
Black on Bare Skin
Creating a strong contrast wherever it appears, onyx is particularly beguiling against bare skin. The subject of folk artist Ammi Phillips’s painting, Catharine Couenhoven Clark (below left), reveals little in her expression. Yet, her onyx bead necklace and earrings are a commanding presence at her ears and neck and a bold punctuation mark to her white ensemble. And black with black is equally as riveting, creating a chic monochromatic energy.
Lobe Drama
Earrings frame your face, can add sassy motion or stationary glam and, when they’re black, they may be the only jewelry you need to wear on any given day for a dramatic minimalist effect.
A Bit of Black
Solid expanses of gleaming onyx never fail to catch attention. However, with its dense, deep, dark hue, just a dash of it can, and does, have the same fabulous effect. When paired with vibrant colors, the result is electric.
When a Set is in Order
Sometimes, a single piece of onyx jewelry just won’t do. For those days, you need a proper set. Do take note of the creatively coiffed Victorian woman below. In addition to her well-placed hair ornaments and cool slide necklace, she is adorned with an onyx bar brooch, rakishly pinned to a neck scarf, and wears a pair of complementing earrings. Impeccable, dare we say.
Mourning Reimagined
Popular during the 16 through 18th centuries, memento mori jewelry, with its stark reminder of death (think skulls and crossbones), gave way to more sentimental pieces. As only she could, Queen Victoria made mourning jewelry very fashionable when she mourned (for the rest of her life) the death of her husband, Prince Albert. Onyx was often used in mourning jewelry, as was the hair of a loved one and pearls, which symbolized tears. Beautifully made, these creations of remembrance, while maintaining their precious history, now serve as elegant and stylish adornments.
“I’ve been 40 years discovering that the queen of all colors was black.” – Pierre-August Renoir
Add a bit of the “queen” to your collection, courtesy of Lang!
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