
Swiss enamel is a form of peinture sur émail and this process begins by creating a neutral matte enamel ground fired on gold. The next step is to paint a colorful scene top and fire it. Lastly, a clear glaze is applied.
This enameling style had been honed since the fifteenth century by the Swiss. Its application to the enrichment of jewelry plaques for brooches, necklaces, bracelets, and other items surged in the nineteenth century alongside the notable increase in travel. Continental tours, at least partly spurred by the international expositions hosted throughout Europe, were a mandatory rite of passage for both the aristocracy and the nouveau riche. Souvenirs of this monumental undertaking were specifically identifiable from each country or region. The long tradition of producing quality enamels makes it no surprise that they became the coveted travel souvenir from Switzerland. Popular subjects often included Swiss landscapes, portraits, or girls in classical cantonal peasant garb.
The authors of Jewellery in the Age of Queen Victoria note:
Switzerland, a major tourist destination, had long excelled in fine enamelling for watches and gold boxes, and this skill was directed to the production of miniature Swiss landscapes mounted as jewelry, as well as to the standard range of fashionable items. 1
Sources
- Gere, Charlotte and Rudoe, Judy. Jewellery in the Age of Queen Victoria: A Mirror to the World. London: The British Museum Press, 2010.
Newman, Harold. An Illustrated Dictionary of Jewelry. London: Thames and Hudson, 1981.
Notes
- Gere et al, p.484↵