Marcus & Co.
from the Antique Jewelry University
MARCUS & CO. (1892 - 1962)
American jeweler best known for its Art Nouveau jewelry and silver. In 1892, when Herman Marcus and his son William opened Marcus & Company at 857 Broadway, New York, Herman Marcus was already well known and respected by the New York City jewelry community. Born and raised in Germany, he had moved to the city in 1850; his knowledge of European trends and previous experience at Ellemeyer, court jewelers of Dresden, won him jobs at Ball, Black, and Co. as well as Tiffany and Company.[1] He was also a partner in the prestigious firm Starr and Marcus before going into business with his son. In 1900, the firm exhibited beautiful orchid-motif brooches, featuring plique-à-jour enameling, at Paris’s International Exhibition. The pieces were clearly inspired by René Lalique.[1] The firm’s designs were of high quality, even if a bit crude by French standards, and are still among the best examples of American Art Nouveau and Arts and Crafts jewelry.[1] Marcus and Company continued to attract high profile clientele throughout the twentieth century, including John D. Rockefeller. The firm closed for a brief time during World War II. In 1962, it merged with Black, Starr, and Frost.
Notes
Sources Consulted
- Becker, Vivienne. Art Nouveau Jewelry. New York: E.P. Dutton, 1985.
- Becker features half a dozen photos of Marcus and Co. pieces and offers a brief biography of the firm.
- Proddow, Penny & Debra Healy. American Jewelry: Glamour & Tradition. New York: Rizzoli, 1987.
- Sataloff, Joseph. Art Nouveau Jewelry: A Practical Guide to Its History and Beauty with Pictures of Over 150 Pieces of Jewelry and a Compendium of International Jeweler’s Marks. Bryn Mawr, PA: Dorrance and Co. Inc., 1984.