The 'Modern Era'
General History
- Prohibition in the U.S.
Jewelry History
- Marcel Tolkowsky Publishes Diamond Design, Detailing the Cut and Proportions of the Modern Brilliant (‘American’ or ‘Ideal’ Cut), Following Scientific Standards First Discovered and Developed by Henry D. Morse.
- Buccellati Established in Italy.
General History
- The Nineteenth Amendment is Ratified, Giving Women the Right to Vote.
- First Regular Radio Programs Begin Broadcasting in Pittsburgh.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Howard Carter Discovers King Tutankhamen’s Tomb in Egypt.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Synthetic Pearl Essence for Simulated Pearls Invented, Called H-Scale.
Jewelry History
- Egyptologist Caroline R Williams Discovers the Granulation Technique Used by Ancient Goldsmiths.
General History
- Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes is Held in Paris.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Synthetic Spinel, Inadvertently Produced by Flame Fusion Process in 1908, Now in Worldwide Use.
Jewelry History
- Jensen is Awarded the Grand Prize at the Paris Exposition.
- Firm of Trifari, Krussman & Fishel Established.
Discoveries & Innovations
- The First Injection Molding Machine Patented by Eckert and Ziegler in Germany.
General History
- Charles Lindbergh Flies Solo Nonstop New York to Paris.
- Motion Picture with Sound First Publicly Shown (Al Jolson in The Jazz Singer).
Discoveries & Innovations
- Cellulose Acetate, Trade Name Lumarith, Introduced by Celluloid Corp.
- Cartier Patents Spring System for Double Clip Brooch
Jewelry History
- Schiaparelli Establishes ‘Maison Schiaparelli’ in Paris.
- Paul Flato Opens Salon in New York.
General History
- The Great Depression Begins with the Stock Market Crash.
Jewelry History
- Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin Merger Agreement.
- Black, Starr & Frost Merger with Gorham Corp., Until 1966.
General History
- Chrysler Building Completed in New York City.
Jewelry History
- Ernest Oppenheimer Becomes Chairman of De Beers, Creates Diamond Corporation.
- Formation of Union des Artistes Modernes, Paris.
General History
- Empire State Building Becomes New York’s Tallest.
Discoveries & Innovations
- The ‘Duette’ Pin Back Mechanism for Double Clip Brooches Patented by U.S. Costume Jewelry Manufacturer Coro.
Jewelry History
- William Spratling Opens the First Silver Workshop in Taxco, Mexico.
- Robert M. Shipley Founds the Gemological Institute of America (GIA).
General History
- Franklin D. Roosevelt Elected President of the USA.
Jewelry History
- 14k Gold Replaces 12k and 15k in Britain, by Decision of the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths, London.
- Harry Winston Opens a Retail Jewelry Business in New York City.
General History
- Construction Begins on Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco (Completed in 1937).
- Prohibition Repealed.
- Gold Taken Out of Circulation.
- Century of Progress World Fair Opens in Chicago.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Lost Wax Process, Used in Dentistry Since c. 1910 Reintroduced for Mass Production of Jewelry Castings with Vulcanized Rubber Models (c.)
- Diamond Producers Association Formed, Diamond Trading Co. Created.
Jewelry History
- The Invisible Setting (Serti Invisible) Patented by Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels (Introduced in USA in 1936).
General History
- Salvador Dali Exhibits Surrealist Paintings in New York City.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Synthetic Emeralds (Igmerald) Developed by IG-Farben, Germany, First Seen by Gemologists.
- Patent for the Clip Back Earring Finding for Unpierced Ears Granted to Eugene Morehouse for B.A. Ballou.
Jewelry History
- Ernest Oppenheimer Creates the De Beers Consolidated Mines Ltd. Diamond Cartel.
- Van Cleef & Arpels Introduces the “Ludo Flexible Strap Bracelet”.
General History
- French Luxury Cruise Ship Normandie Arrives in New York.
- U.S. Works Progress Administration Inaugurated.
Jewelry History
- The Jewelers’ Circular merges with The Keystone to become Jewelers’ Circular-Keystone.
- D. Lisner & Co. introduces ‘Bois Glacé’ jewelry, their trade name for colorless phenolic plastic (Bakelite) laminated to wood.
General History
- George V of Great Britain Dies, Succeeded by George VI.
- BBC Inaugurates Television Service; General Broadcasting Begins in U.S. in 1941.
- Life Magazine Owned by Henry Robinson Luce Became a Popular Weekly Until 1972. (Founded 1883, Stopped 2000.).
Jewelry History
- Invisible Setting (Serti Invisible) Introduced by Van Cleef & Arpels.
General History
- The International Exhibition of Arts and Techniques in Modern Life Held in Paris.
- First Feature-Length Animated Film, Walt Disney’s Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Du Pont de Nemours & Co. Introduces Acrylic Plastic, Trade Name ‘Lucite’; also Patents Nylon Fiber.
- Double-Pronged Hinged (Dress) Clip Introduced (c.)
Jewelry History
- Boucheron, Cartier, Mauboussin, Van Cleef & Arpels and Others Display Figural Jewels of Colored Gold and Gemstones at Paris Exposition.
- Paul Flato Opens his Los Angeles Establishment.
- Van Cleef and Arpels Makes ‘Marriage Contract’ Bracelet for Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor.
General History
- World War II Begins in Europe.
- The New York World’s Fair, Titled ‘The World Of Tomorrow’ Opens.
- Gone With The Wind Premiers.
Jewelry History
- First Commercially Successful Synthetic Emerald Process Marketed by Carroll Chatham of San Francisco, CA (the Term ‘Chatham Created Emerald’ First Used in 1963).
- The House of Jewels at the New York World´s Fair is Sponsored by Tiffany & Co., Black, Starr & Frost-Gorham, Udall & Ballou, Marcus & Co., and Cartier New York.
- Van Cleef & Arpels Opens an Office in New York.
- Verdura opens his shop in New York.
- Sam Kramer Opens his Shop in Greenwich Village.
General History
- France Falls under German Occupation.
- The Bank of France Bans all Gold Trading.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Hydrothermal Synthetic Quartz Produced by AT&T Bell Labs, USA..
General History
- The USA Enters the War with the Japanese Bombing of Pearl Harbor.
- First U.S. Television Broadcasting Begins.
Jewelry History
- Jean Schlumberger Opens Shop in New York, Joins Tiffany & Co. in 1956.
- 10% Luxury Tax on Jewelry in USA Raised to 20% in 1944.
- Craft Horizons, the First National Magazine for Crafts in the USA is Published by the Handicraft Cooperative League.
General History
- Rationing of Consumer Products (Sugar, Coffee, Gasoline) Begins in the U.S.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Polyethylene Formulated by Earl S. Tupper and DuPont, Tupperware Introduced in 1946.
Jewelry History
- Use of Platinum for Jewelry Prohibited in USA.
- White Metal Restricted by U.S. Government, Sterling Silver Used as Substitute in Costume Jewelry.
General History
- Postal Zones Added to Addresses of Large Cities in USA.
Jewelry History
- Luxury tax on jewelry raised to 20% in the USA.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Sugilite Discovered by Ken-ichi Sugi.
General History
- World War II Ends.
- Roosevelt Dies, Harry Truman Becomes President of the USA.
- United Nations is Formed, Holds First Session in 1946.
Jewelry History
- Suzanne Belperron Forms Partnership Herz-Belperron with Jean Herz in Paris.
- Mexican Government Requires Marking of Sterling Silver with ‘Spread Eagle’ Assay Mark.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Opal doublets first made in Australia, triplets around 1960.
Jewelry History
- David Webb Opens Office in New York, Salon in 1963.
- Jerry Fels Founds ‘Renoir of Hollywood’ in Los Angeles, CA.
- First National exhibit of American Studio Artists’ Jewelry Held at Museum of Modern Art in New York City.
General History
- Couturier Christian Dior introduces ‘The New Look’.
- Copyright Laws Re-Enacted by U.S. Congress, Expanded to Include Illustrations of Merchandise and Designs for Art Works.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Synthetic Rutile Introduced as a Diamond Simulant.
- Synthetic Star Corundum Becomes Available, Production by Linde From the USA.
Jewelry History
- Synthetic Star Rubies and Sapphires (Linde) First Marketed.
- Costume Jewelry Manufacturers Begin Abandoning Design Patents in Favor of Copyrights, Using the © as Part of a Maker’s Mark.
- Metalsmithing Workshops Series for War Veterans Begins, Ends in 1951.
General History
- Jewish State of Israel Declared, Admitted to U.N. in 1949.
- Truman Elected to Full Term as President of the USA.
Jewelry History
- De Beers Diamond Corp. Launches the Slogan ‘A Damond is Forever’.
General History
- German Federal Republic (West Germany) Proclaimed.
- Israel admitted to UN
Jewelry History
- Harry Winston Purchases the Hope Diamond. His ‘Court of Jewels’ Exhibit Opens in New York, it Tours the USA for the Next Four Years.
- Marshall Field Closes Craft Shop for Jewelry & Metalware.
General History
- Color Television Introduced in the USA.
Jewelry History
- The Metal Arts Guild Organized in San Francisco.
General History
- George VI of Britain Dies; Succeeded by Elizabeth II.
- Dwight D. Eisenhower Elected President of the USA.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Strontium Titanite is Introduced as a Diamond Simulant.
General History
- Marilyn Monroe Sings ‘Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend’ in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.
Jewelry History
- Mamie Eisenhower Wears Trifari Faux Pearls to Inaugural Ball.
Discoveries & Innovations
- First Successful Production of Synthetic Diamonds at General Electric, Process Patented in 1960, Large Gem-Quality Crystals Produced in 1970.
Jewelry History
- De Beers Institutes the Annual Diamond International Awards for Original Designs in Diamond-Set Jewelry.
General History
- Atomically Generated Power First Used in the USA.
Jewelry History
- Swarovski Corp Introduces the ‘Aurelia Borealis’ Color Effect for Rhinestone and Crystal in Collaboration with Cristian Dior.
- Strontium Titanite Introduced to the Public as a Diamond Simulant.
Jewelry History
- Julius Cohen Opens Up his Jewelry Salon.
- Jean Schlumberger Joins Tiffany.
General History
- USSR Launches First ‘Sputnik’ Satellite on Oct. 4.
General History
- Universal Exhibition Opens in Brussels, Belgium.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Chatham Introduces Flux Melt Synthetic Ruby.
General History
- John F. Kennedy Elected President of the USA.
- Birth Control Pills Introduced to the Public.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Opal Triplets First Made (c.1960)
- Process for Synthetic Diamonds Patented in the USA.
- Synthetic Overgrowth of Emerald on Goshenite Successful: Leichleitner Emeralds Enter the Market in Small Numbers.
General History
- Both the Soviets and the USA Put the First Men in Space.
Jewelry History
- International Exhibition of Modern Jewelry (1890-1961) Held in London.
- U.S. National Stamping Act Amended, Requiring a Maker’s Trademark.
General History
- Kennedy Assassinated. Lyndon Johnson Becomes President.
- U.S. Post Office Introduces the ZIP Code.
Jewelry History
- The Term: Chatham Created Emerald First Used.
- David Webb Opens Salon in NY.
General History
- Vietnam War Begins.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Commercial Production of Gilson Flux Melt Emeralds Starts.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Hydrothermal Emeralds Become Commercially Available. Production by Flanigen, Quintesse, Linde From the USA
Jewelry History
- Black, Starr & Frost Ends Merger with Gorham Corp.
Discoveries & Innovations
- YAG Becomes Commercially Available.
General History
- U.S. Moon Landing.
- Woodstock Music Festival.
General History
- Richard Nixon Re-Elected U.S. President
Discoveries & Innovations
- Cubic Zirconia Skull Melt Process Patented, CZs Commercially Marketed in 1976.
- Gilson Produces Synthetic Opal and Synthetic Turquoise.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Synthetic Alexandrite First Marketed by Creative Crystals From the USA.
General History
- President Nixon Resigns as a Result of Watergate (1973).
Discoveries & Innovations
- Tsavorite Garnet Discovered in Kenya.
- Synthetic Citrine (Hydrothermal) Becomes Commercially Available.
- Chatham Introduces Flux Melt Synthetic Blue Sapphire.
Discoveries & Innovations
- GGG Becomes Commercially Available.
- Synthetic Amethyst (Hydrothermal) Becomes Commercially Available.
General History
- U.S. Bicentennial.
- The Microprocessor is Introduced.
- Apple II Personal Computer, 1977.
Jewelry History
- CZ Commercially Marketed.
- National Stamping Act Amendment Introduces the Marking of Plumb Gold (e.g. 14 KP) Meaning Exact (No Tolerance).
Jewelry History
- Marina Bulgari Opens her Own Store in Milan: Marina B., Another in New York City in 1986.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Main Pipe of the Argyle Diamond Mine in Australia Discovered, Mining Company Commissioned in 1985.
- Sugilite, Named After Professor Ken-ichi Sugi, Begins Appearing On the Market (Discovered 1944).
- Gem Quality Red Beryls in Wah Wah Mountains, Utah.
Discoveries & Innovations
- De Beers and Sumimoto Start Synthetic Diamond Production.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Tourmalines Discovered in Paraíba Brazil.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Flux Melt Spinel Becomes Commercially Available.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Diffusion-Treated Sapphires are Brought On the Market for the First Time (c.)
Discoveries & Innovations
- Synthetic Forsterite is Produced as a Peridot Simulant by Mitsui Mining, Japan.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Synthetic Moissanite Becomes Commercially Available, Produced by C3 Inc. USA.
General History
- Death of Queen Elizabeth II of Great Britain, King Charles III Succeeds Her.