Early (Romantic) Victorian Period
Discoveries & Innovations
- Louis J.M. Daguerre perfects daguerreotype photographic process. .
- The telegraph is patented by Cooke and Wheatstone, improved by Samuel Morse, first message sent 1844.
Jewelry History
- Enameled garter armlet made for Queen Victoria
- Order of the Garter strap and buckle motifs become popular.
- Tiffany & Young Founded in New York.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Charles Goodyear invents and patents (1844) vulcanized rubber; displays products at Crystal Palace in 1851.
Jewelry History
- Patek, Czapek & Cie. established by Antoine Norbert de Patek and François Czapek.
General History
- Victoria weds Prince Albert who introduces a more sentimental Romanticism from a Germanic perspective.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Electroplating commercialized, patented by Elkingtons of Birmingham.
- Large scale jewelry manufacturing begins in the USA.
- Process for permanently foiled pastes discovered.
- Steam power first used for diamond cutting in Amsterdam.
- Repoussé and machine stamping replace cannetille. (c.)
Jewelry History
- Scottish motifs in ‘pebble’ (agate) jewelry popularized, continuing through the rest of the century.
- Algerian Knot Motif introduced in Paris.
Jewelry History
- Duty on imported jewelry and mounted gemstones levied by USA.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Gutta-percha introduced in Paris.
- Excavations of the ancient Assyrian capital of Nineveh begin.
Jewelry History
- Riker, Tay & Searing founded in Newark, NJ, Becomes Riker Bros. in 1892.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Gold discovered in California.
- Thomas H Lowe of Birmingham Introduces Rolled Gold Plating Process (a.k.a. Gold-Filled) to Providence, RI, Manufacturers.
Discoveries & Innovations
- The safety pin invented and patented by W. Hunt.
- Gold electroplating patented.
- Opals first discovered in Australia, the first with play-of-color in 1863.
General History
- High tariff placed on foreign goods imported into the USA.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Tube-shaped (‘trombone’) safety catch patented by Charles Rowley of Birmingham, England.
Jewelry History
- Brooches with swiveling compartments introduced (c.)
- Garnet-glass doublets first introduced (c.)
General History
- First international exhibition, the Great Exhibition of the Works of Industry of All Nations, was held at the Crystal Palace in London.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Gold and diamonds first discovered in Australia.
- Hard rubber (Vulcanite) (vulcanite) patented by Nelson Goodyear.
Jewelry History
- Edward Moore becomes design director of Tiffany & Co.
- Artificial aventurine (‘goldstone’) exhibited at Crystal Palace.
General History
- Louis Napoleon becomes Napoleon III, marking the beginning of the French Second Empire.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Machine for heat-pressing bog oak patented.
Jewelry History
- Tiffany & Co. introduces the English sterling standard to the USA.
General History
- Commodore Matthew Perry sails the American fleet into Japan; opens East-West trade relations.
- Crystal Palace exhibition held in New York, modeled after London Exhibition.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Demantoid garnet discovered in the Ural Mountains, identified as green andradite in 1864, named demantoid in 1878.
Jewelry History
- Charles Lewis Tiffany becomes sole owner, taking over Tiffany & Young and the company becomes Tiffany & Co. in 1853.
- Process for bloomed gold documented.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Results of first commercially successful aluminum reduction process published by Henri Ste. Claire Deville.
- Samuel Peck’s patent for shellac composition daguerreotype cases.
Jewelry History
- Use of 15-, 12-, and 9-karat gold made legal in England.
General History
- Paris Exposition Universelle, aluminum articles first exhibited.
Discoveries & Innovations
- R.W. Bunsen begins using gas-air burner that is his namesake.
- Patents for Bois durci, Parkesine, and artificial coral issued.
Jewelry History
- Theodor Fahrner founds jewelry factory in Pforzheim, Germany.
- First aluminum jewelry made in France (c.)
Discoveries & Innovations
- Wm. Perkin accidentally discovers the first synthetic aniline (coal-tar) dye, mauve.
General History
- Financial ‘Panic of 1857’ affects all of U.S. industries.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Furnace to melt platinum and its alloys developed by Henri Ste. Clair Deville.
- Snake chain making machine patented in the USA.
General History
- First attempted laying of a transatlantic cable.
General History
- Construction of the Suez Canal begins..
Discoveries & Innovations
- Comstock Lode silver discovered in Nevada.
- Jewels of Queen Ah-Hotep of Egypt discovered.
Jewelry History
- First attempt at organized jewelers’ union in USA, not successful until 1900 (International Jewelry Workers Union of America).
Discoveries & Innovations
- English patent for a machine to manufacture stamped settings (collets) for stones granted to Frenchmen Bouret and Ferré.
Jewelry History
- Henry D. Morse opens the first American diamond-cutting factory in Boston and develops standards for the American round brilliant cut, 1872-75.
- Emperor Maximilian & Maximilian Diamonds are purchased in Brazil by Emperor Maximilian himself.
- Fouquet opens up shop.
- Ernest Gaillard takes over his father’s workshops in Paris.
Mid (Grand) Victorian Period
General History
- Prince Consort Albert dies; Victoria enters a prolonged period of mourning.
- U.S. Civil War begins (1861-1865); Lincoln inaugurated.
Jewelry History
- Wearing of (black) mourning jewelry required at British court until circa 1880.
- Fortunato Pio Castellani turns business over to son Augusto.
General History
- International Exhibition held in London..
Discoveries & Innovations
- Japanese decorative arts exhibited for the first time in the West.
Jewelry History
- Archaeological revival gold jewelry exhibited by Castellani of Rome at International Exhibition.
- Reverse intaglios by Charles Cook shown at International Exhibition
General History
- Edward, Prince of Wales, marries Alexandra of Denmark.
Jewelry History
- The Idol’s Eye diamond‘s first appearance in recorded history; it is sold by Christie’s
General History
- Paris International Exhibition.
Discoveries & Innovations
- First authenticated diamond, the ‘Eureka’, discovered in South Africa.
Jewelry History
- Egyptian Revival jewelry exhibited at Paris Exposition.
- John Brogden wins gold medal for his jewelry.
- Parisian firm Boucheron begins production of plique à jour enamels.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Celluloid, the first successful semi-synthetic thermoplastic, invented in USA by John Wesley Hyatt; commercial production begins in 1873.
Jewelry History
- Gorham Mfg. Co., Providence, RI, adopts the sterling standard of 925 parts per thousand.
General History
- First trans-continental railroad from Omaha to San Francisco.
- Suez Canal opened.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Diamond Rush begins in South Africa with the discovery of the Star of Africa.
Jewelry History
- Henry D. Morse cuts the Dewey Diamond, largest found in America to date (23,75ct, cut to 11,70 ct).
- American Horological Journal first published, merges with The Jewelers’ Circular to become The Jewelers’ Circular and Horological Review.
General History
- Fall of the French Empire.
- Start of a recession in Europe that lasts throughout the decade.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Diamonds discovered in Kimberley, South Africa.
- Japanese craftsmen introduce metal-working techniques and designs to the West.
Jewelry History
- Peter Carl Fabergé takes over his father’s business.
- Influx of European craftsmen and designers into the USA.
- Jewelers’ Circular founded, the first issue published February 15.
General History
- International Exhibition held in London.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Ferdinand J Herpers of Newark, NJ, patents six prong setting for diamonds, introduced as the Tiffany setting by Tiffany & Co. in 1886.
- Black Opals discovered in Queensland, Australia.
Jewelry History
- Celluloid commercial production begins; trade name registered, 1873.
General History
- Universal Exhibition held in Vienna.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Henry D. Morse and Charles M. Field obtain British and U.S. (1874, 1876) patents for steam-driven bruting (diamond cutting) machines.
General History
- Deadwood, Dakota.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Gold discovered in Black Hills of Dakota Territory.
- Patents for artificial coral, tortoiseshell, amber, jet (celluloid).
Jewelry History
- Arthur Lazenby Liberty founds Liberty & Co. of London.
- The Celluloid Mfg. Co. begins jewelry production in Newark, NJ.
General History
- Centennial Exposition held in Philadelphia.
- Wearing of swords banned in Japan.
- Queen Victoria becomes Empress of India.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Alexander Graham Bell patents the telephone.
Jewelry History
- Alessandro Castellani presents and lectures on Etruscan revival jewelry at Centennial Exposition.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Advent of bottled oxygen (liquefied and compressed).
- Successful experiments with chemical manufacture of very small rubies and sapphires in Paris, published by Frémy.
Jewelry History
- Aucoc buys Parisian firm ‘Lobjois’ and changes it’s name to ‘La Maison Aucoc’.
General History
- Paris Exposition Universelle.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Earring covers for diamond earrings patented.
- Tiffany & Co. 128.54 Carat Diamond c.1879.
Jewelry History
- Tiffany & Co. awarded gold medal for encrusted metals technique in the Japanesque style at Paris Exhibition.
- Unger Bros. of Newark, NJ, begins the manufacture of silver jewelry.
Discoveries & Innovations
- T.A. Edison patents incandescent light bulb. .
- Hiddenite, green variety of spodumene, found in North Carolina, USA.
Jewelry History
- Gem expert George Frederick Kunz joins Tiffany & Co.
General History
- Rational Dress Society founded in Great Britain.
Jewelry History
- Child & Child is established in London.
- Cecil Rhodes establishes De Beers Mining Company in South Africa (renamed De Beers Consolidated Mines in 1888).
- Mass production of wristwatches begins in Switzerland, introduced in the USA
General History
- First electrically lit theatre, The Savoy, opens in London.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Blue sapphires discovered in Kashmir, N. India.
General History
- Metropolitan Opera House opens in New York City.
Late (Aesthetic) Victorian Period
General History
- Statue of Liberty dedicated.
Jewelry History
- Richard W. Sears starts a mail-order company to sell watches (second company to sell jewelry and watches founded in 1889).
- Tiffany setting for diamond solitaires introduced.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Hall-Héroult process for refining aluminum developed; first commercial production in Switzerland, value drops.Celluloid photographic film invented by Hannibal W. Goodwin.
- Gold extraction by cyanide process Invented by John Stewart, Macarthur and the Forrest brothers.
- The Belais brothers of New York begin experimenting with alloys for white gold (c.). David Belais introduces his formula to the trade in 1917 (18k Belais).
Jewelry History
- Tiffany & Co. purchases the French Crown Jewels.
- Birmingham (England) Jewellers’ and Silversmiths’ Association formed by manufacturers.
Jewelry History
- C.R. Ashbee’s Guild of Handicraft founded in London, the first crafts guild to specialize in jewelry making and metalwork. <
General History
- Paris Exposition Universelle – Eiffel Tower constructed.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Black Opals discovered in NSW, Australia; commercial mining at Lightning Ridge begins in 1903.
Jewelry History
- René Boivin establishes Boivin in France.
- Tiffany & Co. exhibits enameled orchid jewels by Paulding Farnham at the Exposition Universelle.
General History
- Gibson’s Gibson Girl appears in Life magazine.
General History
- The marking of foreign imports with the name of the country of origin in English required by the enactment of the McKinley Tariff Act, October, 1890.
- Patent for artificial horn (celluloid).
Discoveries & Innovations
- Frémy publishes experiments with ruby synthesis, drawings of synthetic-set jewelry.
- Power driven bruting (girdling) machine for cutting diamonds patented in England.
- First commercial opal mine opened in Australia.
Jewelry History
- Marcus & Co. formerly Jaques & Marcus, established in New York.
- Vogue magazine founded in the USA.
General History
- World’s Colombian Exposition in Chicago.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Excelsior Diamond is found in South Africa.
- Cultured pearls first developed by K. Mikimoto in Japan; first spherical pearls grown 1905.’Platingeld’ introduced, used for simulated gold and platinum chains.
General History
- Thomas Edison’s Kinetoscope Parlor (‘peepshow’) opens in New York City.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Cross & Bevean, UK, issued patent for cellulose acetate
Jewelry History
- Screw back earring finding for unpierced ears patented.
General History
- American Consuelo Vanderbilt marries the British Duke of Marlborough.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Bonzano Creek Gold Rush in Klondike, Yukon, Canada.
- The wireless telegraph invented by Guglielmo Marconi (first transatlantic wireless signal in 1901).
- Blue sapphires discovered in Yogo Gulch, Montana.
Jewelry History
- Sigfried (aka Samuel) Bing opens his new Paris gallery of decorative art called L’Art Nouveau.
- René Lalique exhibits jewelry at the Bing gallery and the Salon of the Societé des Artistes Français; begins work on a series of 145 pieces for Calouste Gulbenkian.
- Daniel Swarowski opens Glass stone-cutting factory in Tirol, Austria.
General History
- Queen Victoria‘s Diamond Jubilee.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Casein plastics marketed in Germany.
Jewelry History
- Lacloche Frères established in Paris.
- Boston and Chicago Arts and Crafts Societies founded.
General History
- Spanish-American War.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Alaska Gold Rush.
- Commercial sapphire mining begins in Rock Creek, Montana.
- Commercial tourmaline mining begins in San Diego County CA.
General History
- Boer war in South Africa starts, lasts until 1902.
Jewelry History
- Aigrettes reach the peak of their popularity (c.)
- Diamond supplies curtailed by the Boer war, prices for De Beers’ reserve stock rise.
General History
- Paris Exposition Universelle.
Discoveries & Innovations
- Oxyacetylene torch invented by Edmund Fouché.
- The diamond saw is invented by a Belgian working in the USA. (c.1900)
- Synthetic rubies exhibited at Paris Exposition.
Jewelry History
- Tiffany & Co. exhibits a life-size iris corsage ornament set with Montana blue sapphires.
- Boucheron, Fouquet, Lalique, Vever and other French jewelers display their Art Nouveau jewels at the Paris exposition.
- The Kalo Shop founded by Clara Barck Welles in Chicago, IL begins jewelry making in 1905, closed in 1970.
- USA officially adopts the gold standard with McKinley’s signing of the Gold Standard Act.