Adler

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Adler e. 1886		• Specializing in use of color combinations.

Akelo

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Akelo	Italy

Albert

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Albert e.1962	Geneva	Watch Designer for • Patek Philippe. Awards for • Patek Philippe. • Omega. • His own workshop.

Aletto Bros

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Aletto Bros 19 cen. e.1964	Naples New York	• Contemporary interpretations of historic jewels. • Masterful use of Invisible Setting.

Asprey & Co.

Jewelry Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
1903-1908 1906-1907 - Objects 1908 1910-1965 1986 2007	Asprey & Co. e.1781	Great Britain	• Jewelers. • Silversmiths. • Dressing Cases. 1847 • New Bond Street Store. 1851 • Great Exhibition: Gold Medal awarded by Queen Victoria. 1862 • Royal Warrant from Queen Victoria. 1889 • Royal Warrant from King Edward VII. 1925 • Pearl Necklace commissioned by Queen Mary. 1930 • Five trunks commissioned by Maharajah of Patiala. 1975 • Queen's Award to industry from Queen Elizabeth II. 1998 • Merger: Asprey & Garrard. 2002 • Demerger from Garrard. Currently • Specializing in custom designs, novelties & luxury merchandise.

Audemars Piguet

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Audemars Piguet e.1875	Switzerland	• Created the Grande Complication. • First skeleton watch. • Thinnest manual wind. • Ultra-Thin automatic perpetual.

Auger

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
AG with square framed star.	Alphonse Auger e.1862	Paris, France	1862 • Alphonse Auger forms his first company. 1895 • Son, George, enters the firm. Style • Art Nouveau

Bailey, Banks & Biddle

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Bailey, Banks & Biddle Joseph T. Bailey c.1832 Bailey & Co. Partners Joseph T. Bailey II, George W. Banks & Samuel Biddle c.1878	Philadelphia PA	Founders • George Banks. • Samuel Biddle. • Joseph T. Bailey. • Manufacturing jewelers. • Diamond dealers. • Jewelers to prominent Americans. • America's oldest jeweler. • Civil War swords. • Mortuary Medal for Abraham Lincoln. • Medal of Honor. • Purple Heart, Silver & Bronze Stars. • Floral jewelry with semi-precious colored stones.

Bapst & Falize

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
Stamped Mark BF with steer between	Bapst & Falize Partnership 1880-1892	Paris	• Combined Bapst's French royal jewelry tradition & Falize's Grand Prize & Legion of Honor at the 1878 Paris Exhibition Partnership • Germain Bapst (fl.1875-1895) • Lucien Falize (1838-1897)

Baume & Mercier

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Baume & Mercier c.1830	Switzerland	• Watchmakers. Currently • Owned by Richemont Group.

Bagués

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Bagués e. 1917 Bagués i Bagués e.1927	Barcelona Calle San Pau	1948 • New branch in the Ramblas. 1950 • New branch in the Passeig de Gracia.

Bautte

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Bautte e.1791		• Specialized in watches. 1906 • Purchased by Girard Perregaux.

Beattie & Sons

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Beattie & Sons c.1884	Cleveland	• Jewelry until 1906. • Dealt exclusively with fine Jewels.

Belais

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Belais e. c.1900	USA	• First to use White Gold in Jewelry in the United States. 1917 • Patented a white gold formula.

Belperron

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
Typically not Signed Sometimes with Manufacturer's Mark for Groëné et Darde	Belperron 1925 Boivin 1933 Maison Herz	Paris	• Carved Rock Crystal, Chalcedony & Agate. • Swirled motifs. • Jeweler to the stars & Duke & Duchess of Windsor.

Benvenuto Cellini

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Benvenuto Cellini (1500-1571)	Italy	• Italian Renaissance goldsmith serving Popes and royalty.

Black, Starr & Frost

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Cortlandt W. Starr (1833-1888) e.1801 Black, Starr & Frost	1801 Georgia 1860 New York	• Prestigious jewelers. • Distinguished during the Civil War - turned jewelry maker. • Small versions of European style diamond jewelry items, bows, flowers, leaves, etc. 1876 • B, S & F moved to 251 Fifth Ave NY. • Cortland Starr & Aaron Frost became partners Black, Starr & Frost. 1920 • Black, Starr & Gorham. 1929 • Merged with Gorham.

René Boivin

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
Vertical Lozenge RB with Snake Symbol	René Boivin (1864-1917) e. c.1890	Paris	• Use of Uncommon combinations of materials: i.e. wood and pearls. • Bold use of colored gemstones. • Large bold striking designs.

Boucheron

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Boucheron e.1858	Paris	1830 • Frédéric Boucheron born in Paris. 1858 • Established Workshop • Lacy gold metalwork. • Faultless Craftsmanship. Innovative use of unusual materials • First to do openwork cloisonné (Plique-à-Jour) enamel. • Carved diamonds into insect wings and sometimes engraved them. • Steel encrusted with gold. 1878, 1889 & 1900 • Exhibited at the World Exhibitions. Designers • Jules Debut (1858-1879 • Paul Legrand (1863-1892) • Auguste Bugniot (1890-?) • Lucien Hirtz (1893-1925) 1902 • Death of Frederic Boucheron. • Succeeded by Louis, his son. c.1930s-40s • Popularized detachable dress clips.

Breguet

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Breguet e.1775	Switzerland	• Watchmaker to the Courts of Europe.

Brogden, John

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	John Brogden 1842-1885	London	• Ancient, Egyptian and Renaissance revival-style jewelry.

Buccellati

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Buccellati Mario Buccellati e.1919	Milan Worldwide	• Improvisational use of materials during WWII "Dutch Gold" over copper, chipped gems mounted upside down. • Easily recognized style with distinct textures and engravings.

Bucherer

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Bucherer e.1888	Lucerne	• High Quality Jewels.

J.E. Caldwell

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	J.E. Caldwell e.1839	Philadelpha	• Fine Art Deco & Art Nouveau jewels.

Capdevila Massana, Manuel

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Manuel Capdevila Massana Joaquim - e.1918	Bacelona	• Manuel was a jeweler and a painter.

Carrera y Carrera

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Carrera y Carrera e.1885	Spain	• Historically: Jewelers to society & aristocracy. • Known for fine workmanship and sculptural design.

Cartier

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Cartier e.1847	Paris e.1847 London e.1902 New York e.1909	1852 • Egyptian scarab design 1856 • Princess Mathilde became a customer 1873 • Egyptian Revival pushed Cartier to the pinnacle of the world of jewelry 1902 • London branch established 1904 • Royal Warrant: King Edward VII, England • Royal Warrant: King Alfonso XIII, Spain • Queen Alexandra of England wears the Resille necklace 1905 • Royal Warrant: King Carlos I of Portugal 1906 • Production in the Art Deco style began 1908 • Royal Warrant: King Paramindr Maha Chulalongkorn, Siam 1909 • New York branch opens • Royal Warrant: King George I, Greece 1910 • Sale of the Hope Diamond 1913 • First Mystery Clock 1914 • Royal Warrant: Duke Philippe d'Orleans 1917 • Two strands of natural pearls traded for mansion at 653 Fifth Avenue 1921 • Royal Warrant: King Edward VIII 1924 • Trinity Ring and Bracelet 1933 • Jeanne Toussaint The Panther became Director of Fine Jewelry 1936 • Royal Warrant: Prince Louis II, Monaco 1942 • Caged Bird Jewel 1944 • Freed Bird Jewel • Panther Brooch ordered by the Duchess of Windsor 1969 • Cartier Taylor-Burton Diamond sold to Richard Burton 1970 • Love bracelet 1997 • 150th anniversary

Castellani

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Castellani e. c.1816	Rome c.1860s Paris & London	1826 • Began production jewelry based on early Roman excavations. 1848 • Closed temporarily due to the Italian political climate. 1858 • Alessandro and Augusto Castellani re-opened the workshop. 1860s • Became a tourist destination for Archeological Revival jewelry. 1930 • Closed after the death of Alfredo.

C.D. Peacock

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	C.D. Peacock e.1837	Chicago	• Chicago Fine Jewelry Retailer. Historically • Arts & Crafts Jewelry.

Chantecler

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Chantecler e.1947	Capri	• Coral jewelry. • Jet-set and famous clientele.

Charlton & Co.

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Charlton & Co. 1909	New York	Currently • Grant A. Peacock, New York.

Chaumet

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Chaumet e. 1793 Nitot et Fils	Paris 1910 New York	1780 • Etienne Nitot Opens for business on rue St. Honoré 1800 • Orders from Joséphine Beauharnais. 1804 • Crown for Napoleon. • Princess Joséphine. • Hydrangea parure. • Cameo & intaglio parure. • Pearl parure. 1809 • François Regnault Nitot takes over the firm after the death of Etienne Nitot. 1810 • Napoleon commissions a ruby parure for his bride, Marie Louise. 1815 • François retires and turns the firm over to Jean Baptiste Fossin, his workshop director. 1832 • Fossin & Fils named "Crown Jewellers" of France. 1837 • Awarded Legion d'Honneur. 1834-1840 • Jean Valentin worked for Fossin. • Royal Warrant: Queen Victoria - to Morel. • Morel's daughter married Joseph Chaumet. 1862 • Fossin turns the company over to Prosper Morel. • Fossin organizes the bijouterie et joaillerie française for the London World Exhibition. 1874 • Joseph Chaumet partners with Morel. • Chaumet marries Morel's daughter and takes over the firm in 1885. 1900 • Gold Medal at the Paris World Exhibition. • Russian Imperial Order. • Became known as the Master of Tiaras. 1910 • Opens in New York. 1928 • 150th anniversary. 1972 • Remounted the Sancy Diamond. 1987 • End of Chaumet family involvement in the firm.

Chopard

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Chopard e.1860 Sold in 1963 to the Scheufeles	Switzerland	• Precision Watches • Ladies Fine Jewelry

Christian Dior

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Christian Dior e. December 16, 1946	Paris	1950s • Couture "New Look" 1950 • Added other luxury goods including jewelry

Christofle

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Christofle e.1830	Paris	1845 • Expansion included tableware 1930 • Commission for jewelry from Marchak

Cipullo

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Cipullo (1936-1984	Rome & New Hork	Assistant Designer • David Webb Designer for • Tiffany & Co. • Cartier 1969 • Designed Love Bracelet • Design Themes: Nails, Dollar Signs, Knots and Rope

Claflin, Donald

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Donald Claflin ( - 1979	New York	Designer for • Webb • Tiffany & Co. • Design Themes: fantasy, children's characters, fairy tales, strawberrys • Bulgari

Cocteau, Jean

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Jean Cocteau (1889 - 1963)	Paris	• Avant-Garde Artist

Cohen, Julius

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Julius Cohen e.1956	New York	Trained by • Oscar Heyman & Bros. • Well Designed and Executed Fine Jewelry • Renowned for Serving Customers at Home

Colonna, Edouard

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Edouard Colonna (1862 - 1948)	International New York Paris Canada	Worked for • Louis Comfort Tiffany. Associated with • S. Bing and Maison d'Art Nouveau as Jewelry & Glassware Designer. c.1902 • Designs for Marcus & Co. and Brainerd B. Thresher. 1948 • Death of Edouard Colonna.

Cummings

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Cummings (1944 - Angela Cummings Inc. e.1984	New York	Designer • Tiffany & Co. 1984 • Launched Angela Cummings Inc.

Cusi

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Cusi e. 1886	Milan	• Jeweler to the Royal Family, Duke of Aosta and Count of Turin 1929 • Opened a Branch near the San Remo Casino

Dali

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Dali (1904 - 1989)	Spain	• Made Jewelry to Protest the Emphasis on Cost of Materials vs Design in Jewelry ' ” My object is to show the jeweler's art in true perspective - where the design and craftsmanship are to be valued above the material worth of the gems, as in Renaissance time. ” • Surrealist Design

David Orgell

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	David Orgell c. late 1800s	England c.1940 Los Angeles 1958 Beverly Hills, CA	• Retailer of Fine Jewelry, Timepieces & Objets d’Art

De Grisogono

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	De Grisogono e.1993	Geneva International	• Black Diamond Jewelry

Descomps

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Descomps (1872 - 1948)	Paris	• Jewelry Featuring Engraving & Enamels

Despres

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Despres	France	• Art Deco Artiste-Bijoutier • Bijoux Glaces Mirrored Jewelry • Bijoux Moteurs Motor Jewels 1930 • Chevalier de la Legion d'Honneur

Dinh Van

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Dinh Van e.1976	Paris	1960s • Employed by Cartier • Bold Geometric Cut-Out Designs

Dixon, James W.

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	James W. Dixon e.1806 c.1992	London	• Silversmiths • Platers • Britannia Metal Work • Staybright & Firth Markings on Stainless

Drayson

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Drayson e.1936		Art Deco • High Quality, Innovative, Elegant Jewelry c.1930s • Abstract Sculptural Jewels

Dunand

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Dunand (1872 - 1942)	Geneva & Paris	• Japanese Lacquerwork, Art Deco Wide Gold Bangles • Tapastry Effect with Silver, Lacquer, and Stone

Dunay

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Henry Dunay (1935 - ) e.1956	New York	• Specialty Pavé-Set Jewelry

Dusausoy

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Dusausoy e.1840 c.1970	Paris	• Versatility was their Hallmark - many Combinations Possible for Each Piece of Jewelry.

Edward Moore

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Edward Moore 1851 - 1891 Director of Tiffany & Co. Silver Workshops	New York	• Award Winning Silver Designs for Tiffany & Co. • Japanesque Jewelry & Archaeological Revival Jewels

Eliakim

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Eliakim c.1940s & 50s	Cairo	• Most Renowned Jewelry Salon in Cairo

Esmerian

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Esmerian e.1890	Paris New York	• Historically: Pioneering Colored Stone Cutting

Espezel

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Espezel	Paris	• Manufacturing Jeweler Contracting with many of the most Prominent Twentieth Century Jewelers

Faberge

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Faberge (1846 - 1920)	Russia	• 1884 First Imperial Easter Egg Royal Warrant Awarded • 1897 Royal Warrant from Sweden & Norway • Shut Down by the Russian Revolution

Falize

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Alexis Falize Lucien Falize e.1838	Paris	1833-35 • Trained at Mellerio Frères • Cloisonné Jewelry. 1838 • Takes over Aristide Joureau-Robin's workshop. 1839 • Birth of Lucien Falize. 1841 • Registers master mark. • Never exhibits under his own name. • Created Japanese motif enamel medallions, pendants, etc. 1848 • Begins to create designs for Boucheron and others. 1856 • Lucien joins the firm. 1876 • Alex Falize retires. 1878 • Legion d'Honneur and Grand Prix at the Exposition Universelle c.1880-1892 • Partnersihp with Germain Bapst Forming Bapst & Falize. 1894 • Lucien's son André joins the firm. 1897 • Lucien Falize dies. • Lucein Falize's Sons form Falize Frères. 1898 • Alexis Falize Dies. 1900 • Falize Frères win Grand Prix at the Exhibition 1904 • Serbian Crown Jewels

Fasano

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Fasano 1928	Turin	• Flower and Animal Motifs - Pheasant was their Trademark • Enamel, Gold, Steel and High Quality Gemstones

Feuillâtre, Eugène

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Eugène Feuillâtre (1870 - 1916)	Paris	• Famous for his Enamel Work • Studied under Louis Houillon • Worked closely with Etienne Tourette 1890 • Head of Lalique Enamel workshop. 1897 • Opened his own workshop. • Used Émail en Ronde Bosse, Cloisonné and Plique-à-Jour all together.

Flato

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Flato (1900 - 1999)	New York Beverly Hills Mecixo City	c.1920s • New York • Designers included Adolph Kleaty, George Headley and Fulco di Verdura • Whimsical Jewelry "Say it in Jewelry" 1937 • Beverly Hills Location Serving Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich and others 1970 • Mexico City

Fontana

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Fontana e.1840	Paris	• Classical Design • Fine Workmaship • Chaumet Holds their Archives

Fontenay

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Eugène Fontenay e.1847	Paris	1823 • Born in Paris, son of goldsmith Prosper Fontenay. • Apprenticed with Marchand. 1847 • Founded his workshop. • Excellent Goldsmith. 1858 • Creates a diamond & emerald tiara for the Empress Eugénie. • Style: Archaeological Revival Style Jewelry with Enamel. 1882 • Sells the firm to Henri Smetz, his foreman. 1887 • Death of Eugène Fontenay. • His book, Bijoux anciens et modernes is published posthumously.

Fouquet

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
George: G F with whip between	Fouquet e. c.1852 - 1936 (Alphonse 1828 - 1911) (Georges 1862 - 1957) (Jean 1899 - 1961)	Paris	Specialized 1862-1868 • Filigree with stones. • Cameos & Miniatures. • Mythical beasts such as griffins, chimera and the sphinx. • Jewelry produced for export worldwide. 1878 World Exhibition • Strong influences of the ancient world and historic revival. 1878 International Exhibition, Amsterdam • Convertible necklace/tiaras featuring email en ronde bosse. 1895 • George Took over the firm. • Registers his mark. Specialized • Art Nouveau & Art Deco Styles • Extensive use of Enamel and Colored Stones • Learned the jewelry arts at Rouvenat. 1900 World Exhibition • Featured jewelry designed by Alphonse Mucha. • Etienne Tourette was employed as an enameller.

Fred

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Fred e.1936	Paris Beverly Hills Houston New York Geneva Tokyo Hong Kong Cannes Monte Carlo Seoul	• Pearls and Colored Gemstones • Celebrity Clients

Gage

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Gage	London	• Gold and Colored Gemstones, Baroque Pearls • Use of Ancient Elements in Contemporary Design

Gaillard

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Gaillard e. 1860	Paris	• Japanese-Style Inlay • Enamel, Niello & Patination • Art Nouveau Jewels with Insects, Flowers & Trees - Featuring Organic Materials 1889 • International Exhibition, Paris - Gold Medal for Engraving and "Legion d'Honnour 1892 • Business Transferred to Sons

Garrard

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Garrard e.1722	London	1802 • Robert Garrard Purchased the Business from George Wickes 1843 • Queen Victoria Appointed them Jewellers to the Crown 1910 • Refashioned the Sceptre to hold the Cullinan I 1937 • Created the Coronation Crown for Queen Elizabeth with the Koh-i-Noor 1981 • Supplied Princess Diana's Sapphire and Diamond Engagement Ring

Gazdar

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Gazdar e.1933	Bombay	• Quality Gemstones and Natural Pearls • Popular with Hollywood Stars

Geiss

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Geiss (1771 1846)	Berlin	• Berlin Iron Jewelry • Gothic Revival Iron Jewelry of Individual Motifs

Gérard

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Gérard e.1968	Paris	• Originally Worked for Van Cleef & Arpels • Largest French Jewelry Exporter 1985 • Sold to American Investors 1988 • Reopened in Paris as Louis Gérard, Joaillier International

Ghiso

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Ghiso e. c.1890s - c.1960s	Buenos Aires c.1900-c.1940s Paris Branch ? - C.1940s New York	• Used Freelance Designers - Exported to Buenos Aires and New York

Giuliano

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Giuliano e.1874-1914 (own shop)	c.1860 London	1860-1874 • Outsourced to Hunt & Roskell, C.F. Hancock & Robert Phillips • Renaissance Revival Style • Lozenge-shaped Pendants • Champlevé, Basse-Taille and en Ronde Bosse Enamel 1895 • Carlo Giuliano dies and sons Carlo Joseph and Arthur Alphonse ran the business until 1914

Golay Fils & Stahl

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Golay Fils & Stahl e.1837	Geneva	1896 • King Carol I of Romania • Jeweler the Royal Family of Romania • Other Royal Customers: Kim Damrong of Siam and the Maharajah of Baroda. 1961 • Purchased by Jacques Wolfgang - A Longtime Vendor to the Firm 1976 • Jesse Wolfgang Took Ownership

Grima

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Andrew Grima (1921 - 2007)	e.966 London e.1970 New York e.1971 Zurich e.1972 Tokyo<e.1987 Lugano e.1992 Gstaad	• Organic forms, textured wire 1970 • Appointed jeweler to the Queen

Gübelin

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Gübelin e.1854	Lucerne	• Began as Watchmakers 1923 • Added jewelry & established an international gemological laboratory 2004 • Celebrated 150 years in business

Gustav Manz

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Gustav Manz (1865-1946	New York City	• Worked for Tiffay & Co., Marcus & Co., Cartier and many others • Workshop in Rockefeller Center (Union Square) • Prominent clients

Hagenauer

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Hagenauer e.1898	Vienna	• Hagenauer workshop • Gold and silversmith • Belonged to the Wiener Werkstatte • Designed until his death in 1986

Hale, Frank G.

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Frank Gardner Hale (1876-1945)	Chicago	1906 • Guild of Handicraft with C.R. Ashbee London • Worked with Frederick Partridge 1907 • Boston: Society of Arts and Crafts

Hammerman

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Hammerman e. 1946	New York	• High quality well manufactured jewelry

Harry Winston

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Harry Winston (1896-1978)	New York	• Created platinum settings for gemstones that were fflexible • Bought and sold many famous gems and jewelry collections • Made major gemstone donations to museum collections.

Hemmerle

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Hemmerle e.1893	Munich	Originally Produced Medals and Ornaments for the Bavarian Court Noted for Enamel and Filigree Work

Hennel

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Hennel e.1736	London	Origins • Silverware manufacturers • Evolved into an important pearl dealer

Hermès

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Hermès e.1837 (Harness Makers)	Paris	1922 • Began Creating Women's Handbags 1929 • Fashion Apparel 1930s • Designed "The Scarf"

Hoeker & Zoon

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Hoeker en Zoon (Hoeker & Son) (1862-c.?	Amsterdam	• Silversmiths • Manufacturing/retailing jewelry

Hunt & Roskell

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Hunt & Roskell e.1843 c.1897	London	• Fine watches and jewelry

Jaeger Lecoultre

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Jaeger Lecoultre e.1833	Le Sentier, Vaud, Switzerland	• Fine watches & clocks 1844 • Created the millionometer 1847 • Invented push device eliminating watch keys 1866 • Began manufacturing movements 1902 • Movements for Patek Philippe 1937 • Jaeger-Lecoultre merger

JAR

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	JAR e.1977	Paris	• Joel Arthur Rosenthal (New York) • Unique jewelry and gemstones

Kutchinsky

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Kutchinsky c.1890s	London	• Polish immigrant family • Jewelers to the court of Ludwig of Bavaria • Instrumental in the use of Platinum in fine jewelry 1991 • Bought by Moussaieff

Lacloche Frères

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Lacloche Frères e.1875	1875 Madrid 1892 Paris	1904 • Acquired Edwin Streeter's inventory including the Agra Diamond 1912 • Bought Faberge's London store and inventory 1920s-30s • Fine jewelry, clocks, Objets d’Art • Known for the jabot pin 1935 • Lacloche Frères closed • Jacques Lacloche opened a store in Cannes 1938 • Jacques used the name SARL and opened in Paris, buying from Georges Verger Post War • Designs for Americans 1960 • Closed

Lalaounis

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Ilias Lalaounis c. 1940 - Joined Zolotas 1969 Ilias Lalaounis Founded	Greece	• Ran the Family Business, Zolotas 1957 • Began production of designs inspired by ancient Greece 1969 • Ilias Lalaounis became a separate company Currently • Run by Ilias Lalaounis' daughters

Lalique

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
R L with sword	Lalique (1860-1945)	Paris	Materials • Horn. • Crystal. • Enamel. • Cut glass. Style • Bijoux sculptés • Use of Champlevé & Plique-à-Jour enamel was unrivalled. • Art Nouveau pioneer, leading jewelry of the Belle Époque. 1876 • Apprentice to Louis Aucoc. 1878 • Studied graphic design in London. 1882 • Independent jewelry designer. 1884 • Two years with Varenne (Signed Lalique & Varenne). 1885 • Begins fabricating in the style that would make him famous. 1887 • Boucheron buys 'Flight of Swallows' Parure. 1889 • Exposition Universelle features his work anonymously in Verver and Boucheron's displays. 1892 • Begins to use glass • Designer of jewelry for Sarah Bernhardt & Maison de l'Art Nouveau. 1897 • Legion of Honour's Croix de Chevalier. 1900 • Lalique displays at Universal Exhibition (Paris) to great acclaim. 1925 • Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels exhibits "The Springs of France". • Begins manufacturing objet and statuettes in the "Lalique" Style. 1945 • Death of René Lalique. • After his death, firm Run By Son Marc and later Marie-Claude.

Le Sache, Georges

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
LS in Horizontal Lozenge	Le Sache, Georges (1849-)	Paris	Designer • With Falize • Manufacturing Jeweler for Bijouterie & Joaillerie

Le Roy et Fils

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Le Roy et Fils e.1785	Paris	1789 • Bazile-Charles Leroy Founded House of Le Roy. Clockmaker to • Emperor Napoleon. • Madam Mère. • The Duke of Bourbon. • Princess Pauline. 1823 • Patent filed for a self-winding atmospheric clock operated by a weathervane. 1828 • Partnered with his son Charles-Louis. 1836 • Appointed Purveyor to the King and the Duke d'Orléans. 1840 • Patent for wind clocks. 1845 • Assigned the business to clockmaker Casimir Halley Desfontaines conditional upon him retaining the name. 1865 • Death of Charles-Louis Leroy. 1879 • Louis Leroy joined the business. 1898 • Business renamed Ancienne Maison Le Roy et Fils. L. Leroy et Cie successeurs. 1897 • Ultra-complicated watch no. 1 begun - completed in 1904. 1904 • Grand Prize at the St. Louis exhibition. 1930 • Made an Officer of the Legion of Honour. 1935 • Death of Louis Leroy. 1961 • Death of Léon Leroy. • Pierre and Philippe Leroy took over the firm.

Leysen

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Leysen e.1855	Brussels	1855 • Louis Leysen founded "Fabrique de Bijoux. 1920 • Run by Louis, Henri & Charles. • New residence on rue Marche aux Poulets. • Many prominent clients. 1950 • Headed by Jacques & Pierre. 1872 • Henri Leyson (son of Jacques) continues the tradition. 1982 • Official Supplier by Appointment to the Court of Belgium.

Longines

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Longines e.1832	Saint-Imier, Canton of Bern	1832 • Saint-Imier watchmakers established by Auguste Agassiz. 1846 • Agassiz heads the company and opens the market to the United States to great success. 1852 • Ernest Francillon joins the firm eventually taking it over. 1867 • Es Longines the Longines factory opens. • Produces the first movement, 20A. • Wins a award at the Universal Exhibition, Paris. 1876 • Jacques David attends the Universal Exhibition in Philadelphia and returns to inspire the industrialization of Swiss watchmaking. • Longines pioneers mechanized production. 1878 • By means of its newly mechanized production, Longines produces a simple chronograph, the 20H. 1881 • Longines chronographs produced for Americans are purchased by horse racing aficionados. 1886 • Longines is supplying the majority of New York Sports officials. 1888 • Produces a certified chronometer, the 21.59 calibre. 1889 • Logo is registered. 1893 • Logo registered with the United International Bureaux for the Protection of Intellectual Property (forerunner of WIPO). 1899 • Longines equips Prince Luigi Amedeo of Savoie for his Artic expedition. 1900 • GranPrix at the Universal Exhibition, Paris for La Renommée pocket watch. 1913 • First calibre for a wristwatch. 1916 • Begins development of shaped movements for wristwatches. 1919 • Longines begin development of navigation instruments for aviators. 1927 • Weems Second-Setting Watch for Navigation. 1931 • Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch to be used with a sextant and nautical almanac. 1936 • 13ZN calibre wristwatch patented. 1945 • Longines patents its first self-winding movement, the 22A. 1954 • Longines first quartz clock. • Used with a 16mm camera to record race finishes for officials. 1969 • First cybernetic quarts calibre - Ultra-Quartz. 1972 • Longines LCD Watch. • Currently in operation with the same Maker's Mark.

Louis Comfort Tiffany

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Louis Comfort Tiffany	New York	1881 • Patented opalescent window glass. 1885 • Opened the Tiffany Glass Company. 1894 • Patented Favrile Glass. 1900 • Grand Prize at the International Exhibition, Paris. c.1902 • Went to work in the design department at Tiffany & Co. • First Director of Design for Tiffany & Co. Motifs • Dragonfiles • Flowers • Vines • Mythology Mediums • Enamel • Gemstones 1933 • Death of Louis Comfort Tiffany.

Mappin & Webb

Jewelry Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Mappin & Webb e.1869	London Sheffield	• Silversmiths • Manufacturers 1774 • Jonathan Mappin opened a small cutlery workshop in Sheffield. 1775 • The first Mappin Silver Maker's Mark was registered. 1849 • First London showroom was opened. • Jonathan's four great grandsons took over the company. 1860 • John Mappin (the youngest grandson) broke away and formed Mappin & Company. 1868 • John Newton Mappin joined with George Webb to establish Mappin & Webb. Noted for • Fine silver, jewelry, watches and clocks. 1897 • Royal Warrant granted by Queen Victoria in the year of her diamond jubilee. 1903 • John Newton Mappin purchased Mappin Brothers. Designer • A. Hatfield (until 1935) c.1930s Executed designs for • Arthur Edward Harvey • Keith Murray • James Warwick 1990 • Joined the Asprey group. Currently • Privately owned by the retail group Aurum Holdings. • Hold a Royal Warrant as Sliversmiths to the Queen and The Prince of Wales.

Marchak

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Marchak e.1878	Kiev Paris	1878 • Joseph Marchak set up a jewelry and goldsmith's workshop. 1889 • Joseph attends the Universal Exhibition in Paris which had a powerful influence on his work. 1894 • Marchak wins a Gold Medal in Antwerp. 1900. • Marchak wins a Sliver Medal at the Paris Exhibition. 1905 • Marchak wins Gran Prix at the Liege Universal and International Exhibition. 1913 • Alexandre Marchak joins the firm. 1917 • Known as the "Cartier of Kiev" Marchak employed 1850 workers. 1918 • Death of Joseph Marchak. 1919 • Alexandre sets up the "Joseph Marchak" jewelry business in Paris. 1922 • Partnership with Robert Linzeler creating famous Art Deco jewels. 1925 • Gran Prix at the Exposition des Arts Decoratifs. • Partnership with Linzeler dissolved. 1946 • Alexander Diringer, previously of Cartier and Sterlé was hired as head designer. 1946 • Jacques Verger joined the firm. 1957 • Alexander Marchak left the firm - bought out by Verger. 1960-1987 • Bertrand Degommier is partner and designer. 1988 • Verger sold to Baum. 2003 • The firm is renewed by relatives of Alexandre and Joseph in conjunction with designer Bertrand Degommler with a new collection.

Marcus & Co.

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Marcus & Co. 1892	New York Paris Palm Beach London	• Herman Marcus departed Germany for New York c. 1850s. Worked for • Tiffany & Co. • Ball, Black and Company. Parthered with • Theodore B. Starr - Starr and Marcus. 1884 • Partnered with his son William. 1892 • Marcus & Company. 1920s-30s • Created Diamond Jewelry. • Plique-à-Jour enamel in the Art Nouveau Style. • Flower Brooches. 1962 • Merged with Black, Starr & Frost.

Marilyn Cooperman

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Marilyn Cooperman	Shows Internationally	• 20th Century Fashion Designer. 1987 • Joined Fred Leighton as a designer. 1994 • Launched her own company.

Marina B.

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Marina B. e.1977	Geneva Monte Carlo Gstaad St. Moritz Milan London Tokyo New York	• Granddaughter of Sottiro Bulgari, founder of Bulgari. 1973 • Constantino (her father) died and Anna & Marina took control of Bulgari. 1977 • Branded herself as Marina B. 1978 • Opened A showroom in Geneva. 1986 • Opened a boutique in New York. 2010 • Line is being revived by Windsor Jewels who purchased it from Ahmed Fitaihi. • The designs are being crafted by the jewelers trained by Marina B.

Marzo

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Marzo	Paris	• Art Deco Jewelers.

Masriera, Lluis

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Lluis Masriera (1872-1958)	Barcelona	1839 • Masriera firm founded in Barcelona by his grandfather. 1879 • Studied at Ecole des Beaux Arts, Geneva where he learned enameling. 1888 • International Exposition, Barcelona. • Gold Medal. • Influenced by Lalique. 1895-1910 • Artistic Alphabet designed. 1900 • Centennial Exhibition reportedly influenced Masriera to melt his stock and start again in the French Art Nouveau style. 1915 • Partnered with jeweler Carreras to form Masriera Hermanos y Joquin Carreras, later Masriera i Carreras. Currently • Bagués-Masriera.

Mauboussin

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Mauboussin e.1827	Paris	:; 1827 • M. Rocher, artisan jeweler, establishes jewelry shop with Jean-Baptiste Noury. 1873-1878 • Participation in Expositions in Vienna and Paris. • Mauboussin is given a medal in Paris, 1878. 1925 • Exposition des Arts Décoratifs, Paris • Grad Prix for the House of Mauboussin. 1928-1931 • A trio of gemstone themed exhibitions. • 1928 Emerald • 1930 Ruby • 1931 Diamond 1940-1950 • Gaspipe style using minimal gold. • Naturalist themes. 1955 • Opens in Place Vendôme. • Mauboussin has retail locations around the world.

Maurice Duvalet

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Maurice Duvalet		• French born designer. Worked in conjunction with Van Cleef & Arpels. • Ballerina brooches.

Meister

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Meister e.1897	Zurich	1897 • Founded by Emanuel Peter. • Invented the seamless wedding ring. 1950 • Crested and monogrammed rings. 1965 • Happiness brand wedding rings. Meister Brand • Wedding rings. • Jewelry collection. • Men's accessories.

Mellerio dits Meller

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Mellerio dits Meller e.1613	Paris 1815 - Rue de la Paix End of 19th century - Place Vendôme	1796 • Jean Baptiste Mellerio opens on Rue Vivienne. 1800 • François Mallerio (cousin) moves the shop to rue du Coqu St. Honoré 1815 • Move to Rue de la Paix. Royal Clients • Marie Antionette. • Duchesse de Berry. • Charles X. Other Clients • Celebrities. • Intellectuals. 1843 • Death of François. • Jean François takes over. from 1853 • Emperor & Empress are clients. from 1860 • Princess Mathilde is a customer. • Designed & created sporting awards. International Expositions. • London World Exhibition, 1862. • Queen Isabella II of Spain becomes a customer. • Paris, 1867. • Vienna, 1873. • Paris, 1878 & 1900. • Exposition des Arts Decoratifs, 1925. • New York World's Fair, 1939.

Mikimoto

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Mikimoto e.1878	Japan	1888 • Experiments began in pearl culturing. 1893 • First hemispherical pearls were produced. 1899 • First boutique in Ginza. 1913 • Stores established internationally. 1916 • A patent for culturing spherical pearls was granted. • Mikimoto purchased the rights to Mise-Nishikawa method which he then perfected. 1931 • First South Sea Pearl was cultured. 1954 • Death of Kokichi Mikimoto. • Mikimoto cultured pearls are still popular on the world market today. • The leading pearl farms are in Japan, China, Australia & Thailand.

Mortimer & Hunt

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
ISH Punch Later IM & ISH with and without a surmounting crown	Mortimer & Hunt e.1838	London	1838 • After Paul Storr retired from Storr & Mortimer, John Hunt joined the firm. 1843 • John Mortimer retired and Hunt & Roskell was founded.

Movado

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Movado e.1881	La Chaux-de-Fonds	1881 • Founded by Achilles Ditesheim. 1905 • Re-named Movado (translates "always in motion.") 1912 • Polyplan • Follows contour of the wrist. • Movement on 3 planes. 1926 • Ermeto • Pillow-shaped pocket watch. • Movement wound by opening and closing the case. 1930s • Movado Digital Watch with hours and minutes windows. 1946 • Calendomatic • Month, day and central date. 1947 • Movado Museum Watch. • Single dot watch dial. 1956 • Kingmatic • Automatic rotor-driven wristwatches. 1970 • Datron Chronograph.

Nardi

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Nardi c.1920s	Venice, Italy	1920s • Giulio Nardi founded Nardi in the Piazza San Marco. • Techniques inspired 18th century Venetian goldsmiths. 1931 • Began to make brooches inspired by the Venetian Moretto • Alberto Nardi took over from Giulio Nardi. Famous for • Blackamoor brooches. • Inspired by Othello - the Moor of Venice a symbol of purity and love. Carved from • Ebony. • Sardonyx. • Chalcedony. • Many celebrity clients.

Omar Ramsden

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Omar Ramsden (1873-1939) e.1898 closed 1939	London	1887 • Apprenticed at a Sheffield silversmith. 1888 • Won prizes and awards a the Sheffield School of Art. • Met Alwyn Carr. 1898 • Ramsden and Carr registered their mark at Goldsmith's Hall, London. • Designed Art Nouveau jewelry, influenced by medieval and contemporary designs. 1919 • Firm dissolved and Ramsden continued in a more traditional style. 1939 • Death of Ramsden.

Oscar Heyman & Bros.

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
Engraved Archive Number Later a Stamped Logo	e.1912	New York	1901 • Apprenticed with their uncle, a workmaster for Fabergé. 1906 • The family moved to New York. • Skilled in platinum work, they were uniquely trained and highly desirable. 1909 • Oscar went to work for the newly opened Cartier, New York. 1912 • Oscar Heyman & Brothers was opened at 49 Maiden Lane. • Supplied high quality platinum jewelry to the trade. Jeweler's Jeweler for • Cartier. • Van Cleef & Arpels. • Marcus & Co. • Tiffany & Co. 1916-1942 • Secured 7 patents including: • Secure invisible bracelet clasp. • Security pin for double-clip brooches. • Nearly exclusive US supplier of invisibly set jewels to Van Cleef & Arpels. 1969 • Created the necklace for Cartier to highlight the Taylor-Burton Diamond. Today • Still a family run operation employing many relatives of the original team. Specialties • Handcrafted, signed and numbered jewelry pieces. • Unique and esoteric gemstones and phenomenal gems, cut and polished in their own workshop.

Ostertag

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Ostertag c.1920-30s	Paris Place Vendôme	• French Jeweler. • Thought to rival the work of Cartier, VCA & Boucheron.

Ostier, Inc.

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Ostier, Inc. c.1938	New York	• Award winning jewelers. 1969 • Closed, Inventory sold by Parke-Bernet Galleries.

Paltscho

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Paltscho e.1891	Vienna	1891 • Carl Paltscho opened Biedermann & Paltscho. • Carl's son Erwin convinced him to go out on his own. • Edwin Paltscho designed hidden elaborate clasps often copied by other famous jewelers.

Patek Philippe

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Patek Philippe c.1851		• Antoni Patek made pocket watches c.1839. • Adrien Phillippe invented the keyless winding system. 1851 • Supplied watches to Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. 1868 • Created first wristwatch. • Pioneered the perpetual calendar. • Split seconds hand. • Chronograph. • Minute repeater. 1932 • Purchased by the Stern family.

Pedro Boregaard

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Pedro Boregaard e.1983	New York	• Won may international jewelry design competitions. Designer for • Tiffany c. 1974.

Petochi

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Petochi e.1884		• A family of jewelers. • Alberto Petochi Currently producing Roman coin jewelry - the 1884 Collection. 2004 • Sold to a Roman jewelry and luxury firm.

Piaget

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Piaget e.1874	La Côte-aux-Fées	1874 • Georges Édouard Piaget founded as a high precision watch movement firm. 1911 • Timothée Piaget took over running the firm. 1943 • Gérald and Valentin Piaget registered the brand. 1945 • Built a new manufacturing facility. 1957 • Began to produce ultra-thin movements. • Calibre 9P - 2mm thick hand wound movement. 1960s • Calibre 12P - 2.3 mm thick self winding movement. • Created hardstone dials. • Cuff watch. • Began to create jeweled watches and jewelry. 1979 • Polo Watch integrated the case and the bracelet.

Picq, Henri

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Henri Picq	Paris	• Jeweler Worked for • Cartier - Main supplier from 1900-1918. • Gem-set platinum jewelry. • The Picq workshop was the source of Cartier's reputation for fine platinum jewelry. • Created a series of famous circular motif tiaras convertible to necklaces, brooches and stomachers. • Tutti Frutti jewels. • Lacloche. • Ostertag.

Regner

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Regner c.1930s	Paris	c.1930s • Finely crafted jewelry, small production.

René Sim Lacaze

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	René Sim Lacaze		1923 • Joined Van Cleef & Arpels . • Joint artistic and design director with Renée Rachel Puissant. Also Designed for • Mauboussin. • Cartier. • Harry Winston. • Sterlé. Commissions • Marlene Dietrich. • Maurice Chevalier. • The Duchess of Windsor. 1941 • Set up his own studio and contracted with Mauboussin. 1968 • Retired. 2000 • Died at age 99.

Rubel

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	John Rubel Co. e.1943	New York London Paris	• Began as a Parisian manufacturing firm, Rubel Freres, in association with Van Cleef & Arpels. 1943 • Discontinued their affiliation with Van Cleef & Arpels and opened under their own name. Jewelry designs • Baguette diamond necklaces. • Dancer brooches. • Flamenco dancers. • Rockettes. • Louis XVI Style. • Cancan. • Fantasia inspired dancers. • Flower Brooches with ruby, diamond and turquoise. • Domed cocktail rings and matching earrings. Designer • Maurice Duvalet (shared with VCA.) 1947 • Closed.

Ruser

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Ruser e.1947	Beverly Hills, CA	• Prior to opening his own shop, Ruser worked for Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin Specialty • Freshwater baroque pearl Jewelry. • Swans. • Hummingbirds. • Poodles. • Skunks. • Cherubs. 1969 • Closed.

S.J. Rood

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	S.J. Rood e.1873		• Diamond merchants. • Jewelry Manufacturers. • Royal Warrant by Queen Mary. 1998 • Sold to Hancocks & Co.

Sabbadini

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Sabbadini e.1940	Milan New York	• Design driven high quality Italian jewelry company. 1940 • Founded by Bruno Sabbadini, a gem trader. • Bruno's son Alberto began designing the jewels to feature his father's gems. 1983 • Opened a New York showroom. 2007 • Opened a boutique in St. Moritz. • Currently run by Alberto, his wife Stefania and their children, Pierandrea and Micól.

Sandoz, Gustave-Roger

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Gustave-Roger Sandoz c.1891	Paris	•Art Nouveau goldsmith.

Sasportas

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Sasportas	Paris	• French jewelers.

Saunders Sheperd & Co. Ltd.

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Saunders Shepherd & Co. Ltd. e.1869	London	• 1869 (as Saunders & Shepherd) • Company launched • Specialized in Whitby jet and onyx mourning jewelry. 1889 • Licensed the Krementz one piece collar stud. • Invented the self-closing bracelet. 1899-1905 • Gemstone rings. • Chains. • Goldsmiths. • Silversmiths. • Exporters of jet, onyx & silver jewelry. Following WWII • Moved toward gold manufacturing & diamond jewelry. 1960-61 • Commissioned to make a gold watch to be presented to the Queen. 1981 • Commissioned to make a gold bracelet (20th birthday gift) for the Princess of Wales. 1984 • Emphasis on fine quality gold jewelry.

Schlumberger

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Schlumberger (1907-1987)		• Costume jewelry designer for Elsa Schiaparelli. • First designer at Tiffany & Co. to be able to sign his designs. Designs • Whimsical • Butterflies • Birds • Sea life • Flowers • Objets de Vertu Design Elements • Enamel • Colorful gemstones

Seaman Schepps

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Seaman Schepps e.1934	New York Palm Beach Nantucket	• Had shops in Los Angeles, San Francisco and New York selling a myriad of goods. • Became known as an avant-garde jeweler, "America's Court Jeweler." • Chunky pieces with quantities of colored gemstones. • Maltese cross brooches, shell earrings chunky bracelets following the styles of other famous jewelers of the day. Unusual materials • Gemstones in every color. • Shell. • Ivory. • Turquoise. • Wood. • Coral. • Rock Crystal. • Found materials. 1940s-50s • Animal themes. • Celebrity & Society Clients including the Duchess of Windsor and President Franklin Delano Roosevelt. 1972 • Seaman Schepps died. • Patricia Schepps Vaill, his daughter continued the tradition. 1992 • The business was sold to Jay Bauer and Anthony Hopenhajm who continue to produce jewelry in the traditional Schepps style using the original molds and designs.

Settepassi

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Settepassi e.1700	Florence Milan	• Traditional Italian Jewelers.

Sloan & Co.

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Sloan & Co. e.1895	Newark, NJ New York	• High Quality Jewelry 1857 • John Alexander Riley established Riley, Douglas & Williamson. 1887 • Frank T. Sloan joined Carter, Sloan & Co. as an office boy. 1887 • After working with various partners, the firm was renamed John A. Riley. 1891 • Frank T. Sloan left Carter, Sloan & Co and, along with Allen A. McDonald, joined the business which became John A. Riley & Sloan Co. 1893 • James M. Bennett of Krementz & Co. joined the firm. 1895 • Sloan was the remaining partner and renamed the firm Sloan & Co. 1896 • His father, Augustus K. Sloan, retired from Carter, Sloan & Co. and joined his son at Sloan & Co. • Opened a New York office. 1984 • Last time Sloan & Co. was listed in the Jewelers' Circular/Keystone Brand Name and Trademark Guide.

Sterlé

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Sterlé e.1934	Paris	Manufactured for • Boucheron • Chaumet • Osterag • Kirby • Puiforcat • Hair & Hat ornaments. • Gold & diamond studded leather goods. 1945 • Becoming very well known 1950s Many famous clients • King Farouk, Egypt. • President El Khoury, Libya. • President Vargus, Brazil. • Wife of Maharaja of Baroda. • Exiled Egyptian Queen, Switzerland. Awards & designs • Diamond Award from DeBeers. • Becomes a member of the DeBeers Diamond Corporation. • Invents Gold Thread 1960s • Salvador Dali book cover for Livre de L'Apocalypse • Financial and personal problems required him to sell of many possessions. • The majority of his work sells through Chaumet. 1969 • Opens his own shop. 1976 • Bankruptcy and stock liquidation (mostely to Chaumet). • Sterlé becomes a Technical Consultant to Chaumet. 1978 • Sterlé dies.

Storr & Mortimer

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Storr & Mortimer e.1819	London	• Goldsmiths & Jewelers • Later became Mortimer & Hunt

Sunyer I. Clara, Ramon

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Sunyer I. Clara, Ramon (1889-1963)	Barcelona	• Jeweler. • Silversmith. • Studied with his father, Josep Sunyer i Parera (1850-1919). • Became a premier jeweler of the Noucentisme - a Catalan cultural movement formed as a reaction against Modernisme. • Designed Liturgical objects for churches. 1925 • Exhibited at the Exposition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts, Paris. 1936 • Sixth Milan Triennal. Taught at • Escola d'Arts i Oficis. Founded • Amics de l'Art Liturgic. • Amics de Gaudi. Lead • Cercle Artistic de Sant Lluc.

Sunyer, Oriol

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Sunyer, Oriol (1923-?)	Founded: Barcelona	• Contemporary jewelry designer.

Tabbah

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Tabbah e.1862	Beirut	1862 • Joseph Tabbah, an engraver specialized in engraving blocks for silk printing, founds Tabbah as a jewelry house. 1925 • Art Deco jewelry production. 1945 • A workshop founded in Bab Idriss (Beirut Central District) later transformed into a boutique. 1950s • Al Sauds (members of the Saudi ruling family) become patrons. 1957 • King Abdul Aziz Al Saud presents President Eisenhower with a state gift of a jeweled sword made by Nagib Tabbah. 1978 • Nabil moves to Monaco and Tabbah opens a showroom. 1987 • Beret ring launched. 2012 • 150th Anniversary.

Templier, Raymond

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Templier, Raymond 91891-1968) e.1849	Paris	1919 • Raymond entered the family jewelry business as an "artist-jeweler." • Wanted to add innovative designs to their traditional lines. • He became an important figure in the Art Deco movement. • Personally designed everything with his signature. • Collaborated with Marcel Pecheron on jewels made by Theodore Lambert. Founding Member • UAM-Union des Artistes Modernes. 1925 & 1937 • Participated in the Paris Exhibitions. 1935 • Took over his father's firm.

Templier

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
CT (for Charles Templier) P&RT (for Paul et Raymond Templier Always Inscribed	Templier e.1849	Paris	1849 • Charles Templier founds the firm. 1885 • Paul Templier takes over the firm. 1907 • Paul Templier becomes President of the Chambers of Jewellery of Paris, replacing Louis Aucoc. 1927 • Exhibition of Decorative Arts and Industry, Paris brings acclaim to Raymond Templier for his unique enamel and diamond jewelry. 1933 • Legion d'Honneur awarded to Paul Templier. 1948 • Death of Paul Templier 1968 • Death of Raymond Templier • Firm also known for unique sport trophies and boxing belts.

Tétard Frères

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Tétard Frères 20th Century	Paris	• Silversmith • Exceptional French Art Deco silversmith.

Theo Fennel

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Theo Fennel e.1982	London	• Witty, youthful design and quality craftsmanship. • The craftsmen he employs often employ difficult, arcane techniques that would have died out if not employed in this workshop.

Thesmar, Andre Fernand

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Thesmar, Andre Fernand (1843-1912)		• French Enameler in the Japanese style. 1900 • Exposition Universelle, Paris

Tillander

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	A. Tillander e.1860	St. Petersburg Helsinki c.1918	•Classical revival jewelry with filigree and granulation. 1900 •Firm was taken over by the founder's son. •Exported demantoid. • Simple, original, high quality jewelry. 1923-1957 •Chief Designer was Oskar Pihliin (son of Faberge's Master) • Tillader remains a family run jewelry business.

Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin c.1929-c.1950s	New York Los Angeles Mimi Beach Palm Beach Beverly Hills Atlantic City Chicago Paris	• Parisian jeweler Mauboussin opened in New York in 1929, merged with Trabert & Hoeffer following the stock market crash. • Popular with the Hollywood set who loved their large diamond jewelry and accessories. 1930s • Reflections collection of bold yellow gold and colored gemstone jewels

Treskow, Elisabeth

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Elisabeth Treskow 1898-1992	Germany	• Known for rediscovering granulation techniques used by ancient civilizations. • Collected ancient jewelry and used it for her inspiration. 1937 • Exposition International des Arts et Techniques - Gold Medal Collections featuring her work • The Museum of Decorative Arts, Cologne. • National Museum, Nuremburg. • Victoria and Albert Musuem, London.

Van Cleef & Arpels

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Van Cleef & Arpels	Paris e.1895 New York Worldwide	1898 • Estelle Arpels weds Alfred Van Cleef. 1906 • Alfred Van Cleef and Charles and Julien Arpels, register the name Van Cleef & Arpels. • Open at Place Vendome. 1923 • Produce their first white & yellow gold bracelet watch with leather strap. 1925 • Renée Puissant and René Sim Lacaze join the firm as a designers. • 1st Prize at the Exposition Internationale des Artes Decoratif et Industrials Moderne for "Roses" Bracelet. 1929 • Wall Street crashes and VCA opens it's first New York Store. 1930 • Minaudière created. 1931 • 1st Prize at the International Colonial Exhibition. 1933 • Mystery Setting patented. 1935 • Creation of the Ludo Hexagone bracelet. • Cadenas watch patented. 1936 • Duke of Windsor orders "Hold Tight" bracelet, "Cravat Necklace" and Houx Clip all with rubies. 1937 • Duke of Windsor orders a Jarretière bracelet with sapphires and baguette and round diamonds for Wallis Simpson to commemorate their "Marriage Contract." • Wallis Simpson wore the "Eventail" clip at her wedding to the Duke of Windsor. 1938 • First illustrations for the "Zip" necklace are completed. • Passe-Partout necklace created. • Created Jewelry for the wedding of The Shah of Iran to Princess Fawzia of Egypt. 1939 • Open in Rockefeller Center. 1940 • First "Ballerina" and "Fairy" clips created. 1949 • Pierre Arpels timepiece. 1953 &brul; Jacqueline Bouvier received a VCA engagement ring from John F. Kennedy 1954 • La Boutique opened to appeal to younger buyers. It featured cartoon style animal jewelry. 1956 • Created Princess Grace of Monaco’s wedding present. 1968 • First "Alhambra" necklace. • Jacqueline Kennedy received a VCA engagement ring from Aristotle Onassis. 1976 • "First" a fragrance by VCA launched. 1979 • First Pierre Arpels "Skeleton" watch. Today • VCA owned by Richemont.

Verdura

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Verdura e.1939	New York	1926 • Fulco moves to Paris. • Worked in the textile department of Chanel. • Produced costume jewelry for Chanel. 1935 • Went to Hollywood, then New York and worked with Paul Flato. 1939 • Opened his own jewelry business. 1972 • Sold out to Joseph Alfano and retired. 1985 • Verdura Inc. sold to Ward Landrigan. Influences • Royal Jewels • Byzantine art • The Maltese cross

Verger Frs

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
"FV" until 1911 1911-1935 Lozenge with "VF"	Verger Frs e.1896	Paris	1879 • Ferdinand Verger worked for Vacheron Constantin (until 1938) 1896 • Ferdinand Verger registered his trademark. 1911 • Sons Henri and George joined the firm. • Verger Freres 1935-1945 • Georges Verger et fils 1945-1979 • Verger et Co. Manufactured for • Cartier • Lacloche Frères • Hermès • Van Cleef & Arpels • Tiffany & Co. • Gübelin • Boucheron

Verver

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
An "E and a "V" with an anchor between withing a chevron	Verver e.1821	Metz Paris	1821 • Pierre Paul Vever set up business in Metz. 1848 • Jean Jacques "Ernest" inherits the business. 1871 • Verver family leaves Metz as it becomes part of the German Empire. • Ernest Vever bought the firm "Baugrand" in Paris (an established Parisian jeweler.) 1874 • Sons Paul and Henri become partners in the firm. 1876 • The firm registers their mark (used until 1912.) 1881 • Begin to produce in the Renaissance revival and Oriental styles. 1889 • Paris International Exposition - Jewelry Grand Prize. 1900 • World's Fair Grand Prize for their Art Nouveau Style • Henri produced Sylvia - an Art Nouveau pendant of a butterfly-winged female (in the collection of the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris.) Employed Outside artisans • Etienne Tourette - Enameller. 1915 • Paul dies. 1921 • Henri hands the business to Andre & Pierre - Paul's sons. 1960 • Taken over by Jean Vever (grandson of Paul.) 1982 • Activities ceased.

Wander & Co.

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
Wander Wander France	Wander & Co. e.1921	New York	• Jewelry featuring rough, precious and semi-precious carved stones. • Maintained a branch in Paris during the 1960s & 1970s.

Waslikoff

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
Stamped "W" between within a cartouche having a flat top and bottom and wiggly sides	M. Waslikoff & Sons c.1920s	New York	• Diamond and platinum jewelry specialists. • Flexible platinum bracelets and earrings.

Watherston & Son

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Watherston & Son e.1796	London	• Goldsmith • Silversmith 1824 • Brogden and Garland 1831 • Garland and Watherston 1841-1864 • Watherston and Brogden 1851 • Exhibitors at the Great Exhibition 1864 • Watherston and Son

Webb

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
Stamped "Webb"	David Webb, Inc. e.1948	New York	• Famous for his "Jeweled Jungle" 1948 • David Webb and Nina Silberstein opened David Webb, Inc. in New York. 1950s-1960s • Bold flowers and organic forms. 1964 • Duke of Windsor buys a frog bracelet. 1970s • Began producing more subtle designs to go with less flamboyant times. 1975 • David Webb dies and the Silberstein family continued production of his iconic designs. 2010 • Sold to Sima Ghadamian, Mark Emanuel and Robert Saidian. • Continuing the tradition drawing on previously unproduced designs from the extensive archives and using the original molds. • Gem materials and updated functional aspects (earring backs, etc.) distinguish the "old" from the "new."

Weingrill

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Weingrill e.1879	Italy	• Goldsmiths • Specializing in tubogas style chains and bracelets.

Wièse

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
Stamp rhombus, with initials JW and stars above and below (through 1890) 1890 Rhombus with WIESE and stars above and below.	Jules & Louis Wièse e.1844 1923 closed	Berlin Paris	1834 • Jules Wièse studied goldsmithing under Johann Georg Hossaeur in Berlin. 1839 • Moved to Paris and worked with Froment-Meurice. 1844 • Established workshop exclusively to produce for Froment-Meurice. 1849 • Paris World Exhibition medal with Froment-Meurice. • Registers a jewelry maker's mark for his own company. 1855 • Paris World Exhibition First Class Medal for his own Neo-Renaissance jewelry. 1862 • London World Exhibition Gold Medal for neo-Renaissance jewelry. 1867 • Bronze medal for Archaeological-Revival jewelry. 1880 • Firm transferred to son, Louis Wièse. 1890 • Death of Jules and a new registry mark for Louis. 1923 • Death of Louis.

Willmore

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Willmore e.1773 1855 closed	London	• Silversmiths • Snuff boxes featuring repoussé lids.

E. Wolfe & Co.

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	E. Wolfe & Co. e.1850	London	• Bird & animal brooches, cocktail & engagement rings, bracelets, necklaces, earrings & cuff links. 19th Century • Known for tiaras and crowns. • Queen Alexandra's coronation crown (for Carrington & Co.) • Connaught Diamond Tiara. • The Imperial Crown of India for Delhi Durbar. • Cambridge Lover's Knot Tiara. • Russian Fringe Tiara (for Garrard & Co.) Current Ownership • Alan & Richard Cornelius.

Wolfers

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
Monogram and 'ex unique'	Wolfers, Philippe (1858-1929)	Brussels	Wolfers Frères • Court Jewelers • Trained under his father gaining the skills of a goldsmith and jeweler. 1870-1890s • Influenced by Japanese craftwork and naturalism in the French Art Nouveau style. • Set up his own workshop in Brussels • Worked with ivory. 1889 • Built an Art Nouveau villa at La Hulpe where he studied flowers, insects, peacocks, swans, bats, etc. • His designs became quite distinct from those of Wolfers Frères often sinister and surreal. • International Exhibition, Antwerp, 1894 & exhibition of Les Vingt, Brussels, 1895 - showcased carved ivory. 1902-1904 • Plique-à-Jour enamel, gems and gold insects. • Supplied Cartier with small serpent jewels. c.1908 • His work became more geometric and abstract. • Turned away from jewelry to create sculpture.

Yaèche Frères

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Yaèche Frères	Paris

Yard

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Yard e.1922 Raymond Yard	New York	1898 • Messenger at Marcus & Co. • Took jewelry making classes at night and trained at Marcus & Co. during the day. 1902 • Began to string pearls for Marcus & Co. 1906 • Promoted to Salesman working his way to General Manager 1920s • Established his own firm. • Created his own distinctive style. 1930s • Extensive use of platinum. • High quality gemstones i.e. Kashmir sapphires and Burma rubies. 1940s • War years resulted in a change to yellow gold and palladium with semiprecious stones. 1950s • Return to platinum. • Used some imported French yellow gold mountings for brooches and bracelets. 1958 • Raymond Yard retired. He turned the firm over to 3 of his employees. 1960s • Moved the firm to 580 Fifth Ave. • Introduced baguettes set with claws. • More French mountings used. • Classic Yard styles and new styles made the firm prosperous. 1970s • Abstract designs, metal featured. 1989 • Firm taken over by Robert Gibson Jr. (son of one of the 3 Yard employee successors.)

Zolotas

Maker's Mark	Name/Period	Location	Specialty
	Zolotas e.1895 Efthimios Zolotas	Athens, Greece	• Ancient Byzantine jewelry motifs. 1900 • Opened his "Experimental Laboratory" on Aeolou St., Athens 1910 • Created jewels and tiaras for the Greek Royal family to wear to the coronation of King George V of England. 1960s • 18k yellow gold historical Greek designs. • Celebrity & aristocratic clientele. 1970s • Moved the business to 10 Panepistimiou Ave., where it remains today • Opened in Paris. • 22k gold with texture and colored stones.