Difference between revisions of "Famous Jewelers Jewelry Maker's Marks"

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(Van Cleef & Arpels)
(Van Cleef & Arpels)
Line 3,969: Line 3,969:
 
|<center><br/>e.1895<br/></center>
 
|<center><br/>e.1895<br/></center>
 
|
 
|
:&bull;  
+
::&bull;  
 
:; 1898
 
:; 1898
Estelle Arpels weds Alfred Van Cleef.
+
::&bull; Estelle Arpels weds Alfred Van Cleef.
 
:; 1906
 
:; 1906
Alfred Van Cleef and Charles and Julien Arpels, register the name Van Cleef & Arpels.
+
::&bull; Alfred Van Cleef and Charles and Julien Arpels, register the name Van Cleef & Arpels.
Open at Place Vendome.
+
::&bull; Open at Place Vendome.
 
:; 1923  
 
:; 1923  
Produce their first white & yellow gold bracelet watch with leather strap.
+
::&bull; Produce their first white & yellow gold bracelet watch with leather strap.
 
:; 1925
 
:; 1925
Renée Puissant and René Sim Lacaze join the firm as a designers.
+
::&bull; Renée Puissant and René Sim Lacaze join the firm as a designers.
1st Prize at the ''Exposition Internationale des Artes Decoratif et Industrials Moderne'' for "Roses" Bracelet.
+
::&bull; 1st Prize at the ''Exposition Internationale des Artes Decoratif et Industrials Moderne'' for "Roses" Bracelet.
 
:; 1929  
 
:; 1929  
Wall Street crashes and VCA opens it's first New York Store.
+
::&bull; Wall Street crashes and VCA opens it's first New York Store.
 
:; 1930
 
:; 1930
[[Minaudèrie]] created.
+
::&bull; [[Minaudèrie]] created.
 
:; 1931
 
:; 1931
1st Prize at the International Colonial Exhibition.
+
::&bull; 1st Prize at the International Colonial Exhibition.
1933
+
:; 1933
[[Mystery Setting]] patented.
+
::&bull; [[Mystery Setting]] patented.
 
:; 1935
 
:; 1935
Creation of the ''[[Ludo]] Hexagone'' bracelet.
+
::&bull; Creation of the ''[[Ludo]] Hexagone'' bracelet.
''Cadenas'' watch patented.
+
::&bull; ''Cadenas'' watch patented.
 
:; 1936
 
:; 1936
Duke of Windsor orders ...
+
::&bull; Duke of Windsor orders ...
 
:; 1938
 
:; 1938
First illustrations for the "Zip" necklace are completed.
+
::&bull; First illustrations for the "Zip" necklace are completed.
 
''[[Passe-Partout]]'' necklace created.
 
''[[Passe-Partout]]'' necklace created.
 
:; 1939
 
:; 1939
Coronation jewels for ...
+
::&bull; Coronation jewels for ...
Open in Rockefeller Center.
+
::&bull; Open in Rockefeller Center.
 
:; 1940
 
:; 1940
First "Ballerina" and "Fairy" clips created.
+
::&bull; First "Ballerina" and "Fairy" clips created.
 
:; 1949
 
:; 1949
Pierre Arpels timepiece.
+
::&bull; Pierre Arpels timepiece.
 
:; 1954
 
:; 1954
''La Boutique'' opened to appeal to younger buyers. It featured cartoon style animal jewelry.
+
::&bull; ''La Boutique'' opened to appeal to younger buyers. It featured cartoon style animal jewelry.
 
:; 1968
 
:; 1968
First "Alhambra" necklace.
+
::&bull; First "Alhambra" necklace.
 
:; 1976
 
:; 1976
"First" a fragrance by VCA launched.
+
::&bull; "First" a fragrance by VCA launched.
 
:; 1979
 
:; 1979
First Pierre Arpels "Skeleton" watch.
+
::&bull; First Pierre Arpels "Skeleton" watch.
  
 
|-
 
|-

Revision as of 16:01, 25 February 2013

Adler

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Adler
e. 1886
Founded: Istanbul
Turkey
1972: Geneva
Currently: London
Hong Kong
Gstaad
• Specializing in use of color combinations.


Akelo

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Akelo

Italy


Albert

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Albert
e.1962
Geneva
Watch Designer for
• Patek Philippe
Awards for
• Patek Philippe
• Omega
• His own workshop


Aletto Bros

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Aletto Bros
19 cen.
e.1964
Naples
New York
• Contemporary interpretations of historic jewels.
• Masterful use of Invisible Setting


Asprey & Co.

Jewelry Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Stamped Mark
Asprey & Co.
e.1781
Great Britain
• Jewelers
• Silversmiths
• Dressing Cases
1847
• New Bond Street Store
1851
• Great Exhibition: Gold Medal awarded by Queen Victoria
1862
• Royal Warrant from Queen Victoria
1889
• Royal Warrant from King Edward VII
1925
• Pearl Necklace commissioned by Queen Mary
1930
• Five trunks commissioned by Maharajah of Patiala
1975
• Queen's Award to industry from Queen Elizabeth II
1998
• Merger: Asprey & Garrard
2002
• Demerger from Garrard
Currently
• Specializing in custom designs, novelties & luxury merchandise


Aucoc

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Aucoc
e.1821
Paris
Chased & enameled items using the finest materials
Art Nouveau designs


Audemars Piguet

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Audemars Piguet
e.1875
Switzerland
• Created the Grande Complication
• First skeleton watch
• Thinnest manual wind
• Ultra-Thin automatic perpetual


Auger

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Auger
e.1862


Bailey, Banks & Biddle

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Bb&b-sig.jpg
Bailey, Banks & Biddle
Joseph T. Bailey c.1832 Bailey & Co.
Partners Joseph T. Bailey II, George W. Banks & Samuel Biddle c.1878
Philadelphia PA
Founders
• George Banks
• Samuel Biddle
• Joseph T. Bailey
• Manufacturing jewelers
• Diamond dealers
• Jewelers to prominent Americans
America's oldest jeweler
• Civil War swords
• Mortuary Medal for Abraham Lincoln
• Medal of Honor
• Purple Heart, Silver & Bronze Stars
• Floral jewelry with semi-precious colored stones


Bapst & Falize

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Bapst & Falize
Partnership 1880-1892
Paris
• Combined Bapst's French royal jewelry tradition & Falize's Grand Prize & Legion of Honor at the 1878 Paris Exhibition


Baume & Mercier

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Baume & Mercier
c.1830
Switzerland
• Watchmakers
Currently
• Owned by Richemont Group


Bagués

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Bagués
e. 1917
Bagués i Bagués
e.1927
Barcelona
Calle San Pau
1948
• New branch in the Ramblas
1950
• New branch in the Passeig de Gracia


Bautte

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Bautte
e.1791
• Specialized in watches
1906
• Purchased by Girard Perregaux


Beattie & Sons

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Beattie & Sons
c.1884
Cleveland
• Jewelry until 1906
• Dealt exclusively with fine Jewels


Belais

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Belais
e. c.1900
USA
• First to use White Gold in Jewelry in the United States
1917
• Patented a white gold formula


Belperron

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Typically not Signed
Sometimes with Manufacturer's Mark for Groëné et Darde
Belperron
1925 Boivin
1933 Maison Herz
Paris>
• Carved Rock Crystal, Chalcedony & Agate
• Swirled motifs
• Jeweler to the stars & Duke & Duchess of Windsor


Benson

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Benson
1849-1973
London
Watches & clocks
c.1888
Platinum & yellow gold novelty brooches
• Acquired Hunt & Roskell
1973
• Name sold


Benvenuto Cellini

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Benvenuto Cellini
(1500-1571)
Italy
• Italian Renaissance goldsmith serving Popes and royalty


Black, Starr & Frost

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Blackstarmark.jpg
Cortlandt W. Starr
(1833-1888)
e.1801
Black, Starr & Frost
1801 Georgia
1860 New York
• Prestigious jewelers
• Distinguished during the Civil War - turned jewelry maker.
• Small versions of European style diamond jewelry items, bows, flowers, leaves, etc.
1876
• B, S & F moved to 251 Fifth Ave NY
• Cortland Starr & Aaron Frost became partners Black, Starr & Frost
1920
• Black, Starr & Gorham
1929
• Merged with Gorham


René Boivin

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
René Boivin
(1864-1917)
e. c.1890
Paris
• Use of Uncommon combinations of materials: i.e. wood and pearls
• Bold use of colored gemstones
• Large bold striking designs


Boucheron

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Boucheron
e.1858
Paris
Historically
• Lacy gold metalwork
Plique-a-jour enamelling
• Faultless Craftsmanship
c.1930s-40s
• Popularized detachable dress clips


Brandt

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Brandt
e. c.1906
• Geometric designs
• abstract compositions (Circular Motifs)
• Noted for enamel & lacquer use and engraved precious gems


Breguet

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Breguet
e.1775
Switzerland
• Watchmaker to the Courts of Europe


Brogden, John

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
John Brogden
1842-1885
London
Ancient, Egyptian and Renaissance revival-style jewelry


Buccellati

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
15 MI
Buccellati
Mario Buccellati
e.1919
Milan
Worldwide
• Improvisational use of materials during WWII "Dutch Gold" over copper, chipped gems mounted upside down
• Easily recognized style with distinct textures and engravings


Bucherer

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Bucherer
e.1888
Lucerne
• High Quality Jewels


Bulgari

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Bulgari
e.1857
Rome
Historically
Necklaces
Bracelets
Buckles and Belts
• Style based on classicism & Renaissance gold work
• Emphasis on wearable jewels


J.E. Caldwell

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
J.E. Caldwell
e.1839
Philadelpha
• Fine Art Deco & Art Nouveau jewels


Capdevila Massana, Manuel

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Manuel Capdevila Massana
Joaquim - e.1918
Bacelona
• Manuel was a jeweler and a painter


Carrera y Carrera

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Carrera y Carrera
e.1885
Spain
• Historically: Jewelers to society & aristocracy
• Known for fine workmanship and sculptural design


Cartier

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Cartier
e.1847
Paris e.1847
London e.1902
New York e.1909
1852
• Egyptian scarab design
1856
• Princess Mathilde became a customer
1873
• Egyptian Revival pushed Cartier to the pinnacle of the world of jewelry
1902
• London branch established
1904
• Royal Warrant: King Edward VII, England
• Royal Warrant: King Alfonso XIII, Spain
• Queen Alexandra of England wears the Resille necklace
1905
• Royal Warrant: King Carlos I of Portugal
1906
• Production in the Art Deco style began
1908
• Royal Warrant: King Paramindr Maha Chulalongkorn, Siam
1909
• New York branch opens
• Royal Warrant: King George I, Greece
1910
• Sale of the Hope Diamond
1913
• First Mystery Clock
1914
• Royal Warrant: Duke Philippe d'Orleans
1917
• Two strands of natural pearls traded for mansion at 653 Fifth Avenue
1921
• Royal Warrant: King Edward VIII
1924
Trinity Ring and Bracelet
1933
• Jeanne Toussaint The Panther became Director of Fine Jewelry
1936
• Royal Warrant: Prince Louis II, Monaco
1942
Caged Bird Jewel
1944
Freed Bird Jewel
• Panther Brooch ordered by the Duchess of Windsor
1969
Cartier Taylor-Burton Diamond sold to Richard Burton
1970
Love bracelet
1997
• 150th anniversary


Carvin French

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Carvin French
e.1954
New York
• Manufacturing for the Finest Jewelers
Verdura
• Donald Claflin
• R. Esmerian, Inc.
Yard
• French Trained Jewelers
• Master enamelists
Lapidary
Carved Gems for
• Donald Claflin
• Angela Cummings


Castellani

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Castellani
e. c.1816
Rome
c.1860s Paris & London
1826
• Began production jewelry based on early Roman excavations
1848
• Closed temporarily due to the Italian political climate
1858
• Alessandro and Augusto Castellani re-opened the workshop
1860s
• Became a tourist destination for Archeological Revival jewelry
1930
• Closed after the death of Alfredo


C.D. Peacock

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
C.D. Peacock
e.1837
Chicago
• Chicago Fine Jewelry Retailer
Historically
Arts & Crafts Jewelry


Chanel

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Chanel
e.1910
Paris
1921
• Chanel No.5 became the first couture perfume
1927-1933
Verdura collaborates with Chanel on jewelry design
1930
Maltese Cross design
1932
Diamond jewelry launched
1939-1945
• Closed during the Occupation
1971
• Death of Coco Chanel


Chantecler

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Chantecler
e.1947
Capri
Coral jewelry
• Jet-set and famous clientele


Charlton & Co.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Charlton & Co.
1909
New York
Currently
• Grant A. Peacock, New York


Chaumet

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Chaumet
e. 1793 Nitot et Fils
Paris
1910 New York
• Princess Josephine
• Hydrangea parure
Cameo & intaglio parure
• Pearl parure
1832
• Fossin & Fils named "Crown Jewellers" of France
1837
• Awarded Legion d'Honneur
1834-1840
• Jean Valentin worked for Fossin
• Royal Warrant: Queen Victoria - to the Morels
• Morel's daughter married Joseph Chaumet
1900
• Russian Imperial Order
• Became known as the Master of Tiaras
1910
• Opens in New York
1928
• 150th anniversary
1972
• Remounted the Sancy Diamond
1987
• End of Chaumet family involvement in the firm


Child & Child

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Child & Child
1891-1915
London
Renaissance Revival
Art Nouveau
Edwardian Jewelry
Specialty
Enamelwork


Chopard

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Chopard
e.1860
Sold in 1963 to the Scheufeles
Switzerland
• Precision Watches
• Ladies Fine Jewelry


Christian Dior

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Christian Dior
e. December 16, 1946
Paris
1950s
• Couture "New Look"
1950
• Added other luxury goods including jewelry


Christofle

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Christofle
e.1830
Paris
1845
• Expansion included tableware
1930
• Commission for jewelry from Marchak


Cipullo

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Cipullo
(1936-1984
Rome & New Hork
Assistant Designer
• David Webb
Designer for
• Tiffany & Co.
• Cartier
1969
• Designed Love Bracelet
• Design Themes: Nails, Dollar Signs, Knots and Rope


Claflin, Donald

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Donald Claflin
( - 1979
New York
Designer for
Webb
Tiffany & Co.
• Design Themes: fantasy, children's characters, fairy tales, strawberrys
Bulgari


Cocteau, Jean

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Jean Cocteau
(1889 - 1963)
Paris
• Avant-Garde Artist


Cohen, Julius

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Julius Cohen
e.1956
New York
Trained by
Oscar Heyman & Bros.
• Well Designed and Executed Fine Jewelry
• Renowned for Serving Customers at Home


Colonna, Edouard

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Edouard Colonna
(1862 - 1948)
New York
Worked for
Louis Comfort Tiffany
Associated with
• S. Bing and Maison d'Art Nouveau as Jewelry & Glassware Designer


Cummings

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Cummings
(1944 -
Angela Cummings Inc. e.1984
New York
Designer
Tiffany & Co.
1984
• Launched Angela Cummings Inc.


Cusi

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Cusi
e. 1886
Milan
• Jeweler to the Royal Family, Duke of Aosta and Count of Turin
1929
• Opened a Branch near the San Remo Casino


Dali

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Dali
(1904 - 1989)
Spain
• Made Jewelry to Protest the Emphasis on Cost of Materials vs Design in Jewelry '
My object is to show the jeweler's art in true perspective - where the design and craftsmanship are to be valued above the material worth of the gems, as in Renaissance time.
• Surrealist Design


David Orgell

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
David Orgell
c. late 1800s
England
c.1940 Los Angeles
1958 Beverly Hills, CA
• Retailer of Fine Jewelry, Timepieces & Objets d’Art


De Grisogono

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
De Grisogono
e.1993
Geneva International
• Black Diamond Jewelry


Deakin & Francis

Jewelry Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Stamped Mark
Deakin & Francis
1786 - present
Great Britain
• Silversmiths
• Manufacturers
Historically
• High Quality Handmade Jewelry with Enamel
Cuff Links
Designer
Arthur Edward Harvey


Descomps

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Descomps
(1872 - 1948)
Paris
• Jewelry Featuring Engraving & Enamels


Despres

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Despres

France
Art Deco Artiste-Bijoutier
Bijoux Glaces Mirrored Jewelry
Bijoux Moteurs Motor Jewels
1930
Chevalier de la Legion d'Honneur


Dinh Van

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Dinh Van
e.1976
Paris
1960s
• Employed by Cartier
• Bold Geometric Cut-Out Designs


Dixon, James W.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
James W. Dixon
e.1806
c.1992
London
• Silversmiths
• Platers
Britannia Metal Work
• Staybright & Firth Markings on Stainless


Drayson

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Drayson
e.1936
Art Deco
• High Quality, Innovative, Elegant Jewelry
c.1930s
• Abstract Sculptural Jewels


Dunand

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Dunand
(1872 - 1942)
Geneva & Paris
• Japanese Lacquerwork, Art Deco Wide Gold Bangles
• Tapastry Effect with Silver, Lacquer, and Stone


Dunay

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Henry Dunay
(1935 - )
e.1956
New York
• Specialty Pavé-Set Jewelry


Dusausoy

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Dusausoy
e.1840
c.1970
Paris
• Versatility was their Hallmark - many Combinations Possible for Each Piece of Jewelry.


Edward Moore

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Edward Moore
1851 - 1891
Director of Tiffany & Co. Silver Workshops
New York
• Award Winning Silver Designs for Tiffany & Co.
Japanesque Jewelry & Archaeological Revival Jewels


Eliakim

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Eliakim
c.1940s & 50s
Cairo
• Most Renowned Jewelry Salon in Cairo


Esmerian

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Esmerian
e.1890
Paris
New York
• Historically: Pioneering Colored Stone Cutting


Espezel

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Espezel

Paris
• Manufacturing Jeweler Contracting with many of the most Prominent Twentieth Century Jewelers


Nielsen, Evald

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Stamped Signature
Evald Nielsen
(1879-1958)
Denmark
• Silversmith
• Trained as an Engraver & Chaser
• S.L. Jacobson Represented his work Worldwide
Designer for
Georg Jensen


Faberge

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Faberge
(1846 - 1920)
Russia
• 1884 First Imperial Easter Egg Royal Warrant Awarded
• 1897 Royal Warrant from Sweden & Norway
• Shut Down by the Russian Revolution


Falize

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Falize
(1839 - 1897)
Paris
Cloisonné Jewelry
1878
Legion d'Honneur and Grand Prix at the Exposition Universelle
c.1880-1892
• Partnersihp with Germain Bapst Forming Bapst & Falize
• Lucein Falize's Sons form Falize Freres c. 1897
1900
Falize Freres win Grand Prix at the Exhibition
1904
• Serbian Crown Jewels


Paulding Farnham

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Paulding Farnham
(1859 – 1927)
Rome
• Fine Jewelry
Enameled Orchids – 6 Gold Medals
1885
• Joined the Design Department at Tiffany & Co.



Fasano

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Fasano
1928
Turin
• Flower and Animal Motifs - Pheasant was their Trademark
Enamel, Gold, Steel and High Quality Gemstones


Feuillatre

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Feuillatre
(1870 - 1916)
Paris
• Famous for his Enamel Work
1890
• Head of Lalique Enamel Workshop



Flato

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Flato
(1900 - 1999)
New York
Beverly Hills
Mecixo City
c.1920s
• New York
• Designers included Adolph Kleaty, George Headley and Fulco di Verdura
• Whimsical Jewelry "Say it in Jewelry"
1937
• Beverly Hills Location Serving Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich and others
1970
• Mexico City


Fontana

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Fontana
e.1840
Paris
• Classical Design
• Fine Workmaship
Chaumet Holds their Archives


Fontenay

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Fontenay
(1823 - 1887)
Paris
• Apprenticed with Marchand
• Excellent Goldsmith
• Supurb Archaeological Revivial Style Jewelry with Enamel


Fouquet

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Fouquet
e. c.1852 - 1936
(Alphonse 1828 - 1911)
(Georges 1862 - 1957)
(Jean 1899 - 1961)
Paris
Art Nouveau & Art Deco Styles
• Extensive use of Enamel and Colored Stones


Fred

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Fred
e.1936
Paris
Beverly Hills
Houston
New York
Geneva
Tokyo
Hong Kong
Cannes
Monte Carlo
Seoul
Pearls and Colored Gemstones
• Celebrity Clients


Gage

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Gage

London
Gold and Colored Gemstones, Baroque Pearls
• Use of Ancient Elements in Contemporary Design


Gaillard

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Gaillard
e. 1860
Paris
• Japanese-Style Inlay
Enamel, Niello & Patination
Art Nouveau Jewels with Insects, Flowers & Trees - Featuring Organic Materials
1889
• International Exhibition, Paris - Gold Medal for Engraving and "Legion d'Honnour
1892
• Business Transferred to Sons


Garrard

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Garrard
e.1722
London
1802
• Robert Garrard Purchased the Business from George Wickes
1843
• Queen Victoria Appointed them Jewellers to the Crown
1910
• Refashioned the Sceptre to hold the Cullinan I
1937
• Created the Coronation Crown for Queen Elizabeth with the Koh-i-Noor
1981
• Supplied Princess Diana's Sapphire and Diamond Engagement Ring


Gazdar

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Gazdar
e.1933
Bombay
• Quality Gemstones and Natural Pearls
• Popular with Hollywood Stars


Geiss

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Geiss
(1771 1846)
Berlin
Berlin Iron Jewelry
Gothic Revival Iron Jewelry of Individual Motifs


Gérard

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Gérard
e.1968
Paris
• Originally Worked for Van Cleef & Arpels
• Largest French Jewelry Exporter
1985
• Sold to American Investors
1988
• Reopened in Paris as Louis Gérard, Joaillier International


Ghiso

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Ghiso
e. c.1890s - c.1960s
Buenos Aires
c.1900-c.1940s Paris Branch
? - C.1940s New York
• Used Freelance Designers - Exported to Buenos Aires and New York


Giuliano

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Guliano-sig.jpg
Giuliano
e.1874-1914 (own shop)
c.1860 London
1860-1874
• Outsourced to Hunt & Roskell, C.F. Hancock & Robert Phillips
Renaissance Revival Style
• Lozenge-shaped Pendants
Champlevé, Basse-Taille and en Ronde Bosse Enamel
1895
• Carlo Giuliano dies and sons Carlo Joseph and Arthur Alphonse ran the business until 1914


Golay Fils & Stahl

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Golay Fils & Stahl
e.1837
Geneva
1896
• King Carol I of Romania
• Jeweler the Royal Family of Romania
• Other Royal Customers: Kim Damrong of Siam and the Maharajah of Baroda.
1961
• Purchased by Jacques Wolfgang - A Longtime Vendor to the Firm
1976
• Jesse Wolfgang Took Ownership


Graff

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Graff
e.1960
London
Specialized in the World's Finest Diamonds
• Star of Bombay
Emperor Maximilian
Idol's Eye
Wittelsbach


Grima

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Andrew Grima
(1921 - 2007)
e.966 London
e.1970 New York
e.1971 Zurich
e.1972 Tokyo<e.1987 Lugano
e.1992 Gstaad
• Organic forms, textured wire
1970
• Appointed jeweler to the Queen


Gübelin

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Gübelin
e.1854
Lucerne
• Began as Watchmakers
1923
• Added jewelry & established an international gemological laboratory
2004
• Celebrated 150 years in business


Gustav Manz

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Gustav Manz
(1865-1946
New York City
• Worked for Tiffay & Co., Marcus & Co., Cartier and many others
• Workshop in Rockefeller Center (Union Square)
• Prominent clients


Hagenauer

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Hagenauer
e.1898
Vienna
• Hagenauer workshop
• Gold and silversmith
• Belonged to the Wiener Werkstatte
• Designed until his death in 1986


Hale, Frank G.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Frank Gardner Hale
(1876-1945)
Chicago
1906
Guild of Handicraft with C.R. Ashbee
London
• Worked with Frederick Partridge
1907
• Boston: Society of Arts and Crafts


Hammerman

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Hammerman
e. 1946
New York
• High quality well manufactured jewelry


Harry Winston

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Harry Winston
(1896-1978)
New York
• Created platinum settings for gemstones that were fflexible
• Bought and sold many famous gems and jewelry collections
• Made major gemstone donations to museum collections.


Hemmerle

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Hemmerle
e.1893
Munich
  • Originally Produced Medals and Ornaments for the Bavarian Court
  • Noted for Enamel and Filigree Work


Hennel

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Hennel
e.1736
London
Origins
• Silverware manufacturers
• Evolved into an important pearl dealer


Hermès

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Hermès
e.1837 (Harness Makers)
Paris
1922
• Began Creating Women's Handbags
1929
• Fashion Apparel
1930s
• Designed "The Scarf"



Hoeker & Zoon

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Hoeker en Zoon
(Hoeker & Son)
(1862-c.?
Amsterdam
• Silversmiths
• Manufacturing/retailing jewelry


Hunt & Roskell

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Hunt & Roskell
e.1843 c.1897
London
• Fine watches and jewelry


Jaeger Lecoultre

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Jaeger Lecoultre
e.1833
Le Sentier, Vaud, Switzerland
• Fine watches & clocks
1844
• Created the millionometer
1847
• Invented push device eliminating watch keys
1866
• Began manufacturing movements
1902
• Movements for Patek Philippe
1937
• Jaeger-Lecoultre merger


Janesich

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Janesich
e. c.1835
1835 Trieste
1896 Paris
Trieste
Early
• Jewelry & silverware
Later
• Gems and pearls
Clients
Bulgari,
• Vever
Boucheron
Tiffany & Co.
• Return to Trieste producing jewelry & objet


JAR

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
JAR
e.1977
Paris
• Joel Arthur Rosenthal (New York)
• Unique jewelry and gemstones


King, Arthur

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Arthur King
c.1960s-70s
New York
Miami
Paris
Havana
London
• Goldsmith
Lost Wax Casting
• Naturalistic forms
Baroque pearls, gemstones and colored diamonds


Kutchinsky

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Kutchinsky
c.1890s
London
• Polish immigrant family
• Jewelers to the court of Ludwig of Bavaria
• Instrumental in the use of Platinum in fine jewelry
1991
• Bought by Moussaieff


L'Enfant, Georges

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Georges L'Enfant
c.1950s-1970s
Paris
• Goldsmith
• Manufacturing jeweler
• Bright polish and texture alternating style
Workmaster
Cartier
Gubelin
Tiffany & Co.
Boivin


Lacloche Frères

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Lacloche Frères
e.1875
1875 Madrid
1892 Paris
1904
• Acquired Edwin Streeter's inventory including the Agra Diamond
1912
• Bought Faberge's London store and inventory
1920s-30s
• Fine jewelry, clocks, Objets d’Art
• Known for the jabot pin
1935
• Lacloche Frères closed
• Jacques Lacloche opened a store in Cannes
1938
• Jacques used the name SARL and opened in Paris, buying from Georges Verger
Post War
• Designs for Americans
1960
• Closed


Lalaounis

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Ilias Lalaounis
c. 1940 - Joined Zolotas
1969 Ilias Lalaounis Founded
Greece
• Ran the Family Business, Zolotas
1957
• Began production of designs inspired by ancient Greece
1969
• Ilias Lalaounis became a separate company
Currently
• Run by Ilias Lalaounis' daughters


Lalique

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Lalique
(1860-1945)
Paris
1876
• Apprentice to Louis Aucoc
1878
• Studied graphic design in London
1882
• Independent jewelry designer
1884
• Two years with Varenne (Signed Lalique & Varenne)
1885
• Begins fabricating in the style that would make him famous
1887
Boucheron buys 'Flight of Swallows' Parure
1889
Exposition Universelle features his work anonymously in Verver and Boucheron's Displays
1892
• Begins to use glass
• Designer of jewelry for Sarah Bernhardt & Maison de l'Art Nouveau
1897
• Legion of Honour's Croix de Chevalier
1900 Lalique displays at Universal Exhibition (Paris) to great acclaim
1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels exhibits "The Springs of France"
• Begins manufacturing objet and statuettes in the "Lalique" Style
• After his death firm Run By Son Marc then Marie-Claude


Le Sache, Georges

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
LS in Horizontal Lozenge
Le Sache, Georges
(1849-)
Paris
Designer
• With Falize
• Manufacturing Jeweler for Bijouterie & Joaillerie

Not

Leroy et Fils

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Leroy et Fils




Leysen

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Leysen




Liberty & Co.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Liberty & Co.




Linzeler-Marchak

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Linzeler-Marchak

Founded: Istanbul, Turkey
1972: Geneva
Currently: London, Hongkong & Gstaad


Longines

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Longines

Founded: Istanbul, Turkey
1972: Geneva
Currently: London, Hongkong & Gstaad


Louis Comfort Tiffany

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Louis Comfort Tiffany




Lucy Kinsella

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Lucy Kinsella




Mappin & Webb

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Mappin & Webb




Marchak

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Marchak




Marcus & Co.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Marcus & Co.




Marilyn Cooperman

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Marilyn Cooperman




Marina B.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Marina B.





Marshall Field & Company

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Marshall Field & Company




Marzo

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Marzo




Masenza

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Masenza




Masriera, Luis

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Masriera, Luis




Mauboussin

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Mauboussin




Maurice Duvalet

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Maurice Duvalet




McTeigue

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
McTeigue




Meister

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Meister




Mellerio Dits

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Mellerio Dits




Mikimoto

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Mikimoto




Mortimer & Hunt

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Mortimer & Hunt




Movado

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Movado




==

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty





Nardi

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Nardi




Omar Ramsden

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Omar Ramsden




Oscar Heyman Bros

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
<centerOscar Heyman Bros>

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Ostertag

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Ostertag




Ostier, Inc.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Ostier, Inc.

"



Paillette et Cie

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Paillette et Cie




Paloma Picasso

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Paloma Picasso

Founded: Istanbul, Turkey
1972: Geneva
Currently: London, Hongkong & Gstaad
"


Paltscho

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Paltscho

Founded: Istanbul, Turkey
1972: Geneva
Currently: London, Hongkong & Gstaad
"


Patek Philippe

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Patek Philippe




Pedro Boregaard

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Pedro Boregaard




Petochi

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Petochi




Piaget

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Piaget




Picq

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Picq




R‚gner

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
R‚gner




Rene Sim LaGaze

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Rene Sim LaGaze




Revere, Paul

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Revere, Paul





Rigovagga

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Rigovagga




Riker Bros.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Riker Bros.




Rubel Freres

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Rubel Freres




Ruser

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Ruser




S.J. Rood

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
S.J. Rood




Sabbadini

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Sabbadini




Sandoz

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Sandoz




Sasportas

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Sasportas




Saunders & Sheperd

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Saunders & Sheperd




Schlumberger

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Schlumberger




Seaman Schepps

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Seaman Schepps




Serafini

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Serafini




Settepassi

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Settepassi




Shreve & Co.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Shreve & Co.




Shreve, Crump & Low

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Shreve, Crump & Low





Sloan & Co.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Sloan & Co.




Spratling

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Spratling




Sterle

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Sterle




Storr Mortimer

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Storr Mortimer




Sunyer I. Clar…, Ramon

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Sunyer I. Clar…, Ramon




Sunyer, Oriol

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Sunyer, Oriol

Founded: Istanbul, Turkey
1972: Geneva
Currently: London, Hongkong & Gstaad


Tabbah

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Tabbah

Founded: Istanbul, Turkey
1972: Geneva
Currently: London, Hongkong & Gstaad


Temblier, Raymond

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Temblier, Raymond




Templier

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Templier




Tetard Freres

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Tetard Freres




Theo Fennel

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Theo Fennel




Thesmar, Andre Fernand

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Thesmar, Andre Fernand




Tiffany & Co.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Tiffany & Co.




Tillander

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Tillander




Trabert & Hoeffer Mauboussin

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Trabert & Hoeffer Mauboussin




Trabucco

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Trabucco




Treskow

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Treskow




Udall & Ballou

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Udall & Ballou




Van Cleef & Arpels

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Van Cleef & Arpels


e.1895
1898
• Estelle Arpels weds Alfred Van Cleef.
1906
• Alfred Van Cleef and Charles and Julien Arpels, register the name Van Cleef & Arpels.
• Open at Place Vendome.
1923
• Produce their first white & yellow gold bracelet watch with leather strap.
1925
• Renée Puissant and René Sim Lacaze join the firm as a designers.
• 1st Prize at the Exposition Internationale des Artes Decoratif et Industrials Moderne for "Roses" Bracelet.
1929
• Wall Street crashes and VCA opens it's first New York Store.
1930
Minaudèrie created.
1931
• 1st Prize at the International Colonial Exhibition.
1933
Mystery Setting patented.
1935
• Creation of the Ludo Hexagone bracelet.
Cadenas watch patented.
1936
• Duke of Windsor orders ...
1938
• First illustrations for the "Zip" necklace are completed.

Passe-Partout necklace created.

1939
• Coronation jewels for ...
• Open in Rockefeller Center.
1940
• First "Ballerina" and "Fairy" clips created.
1949
• Pierre Arpels timepiece.
1954
La Boutique opened to appeal to younger buyers. It featured cartoon style animal jewelry.
1968
• First "Alhambra" necklace.
1976
• "First" a fragrance by VCA launched.
1979
• First Pierre Arpels "Skeleton" watch.



Verdura

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Verdura
e.1939
New York

1926
• Fulco moves to Paris.
• Worked in the textile department of Chanel.
• Produced costume jewelry for Chanel.
1935
• Went to Hollywood, then New York and worked with Paul Flato.
1939
• Opened his own jewelry business.
1972
• Sold out to Joseph Alfano and retired.
1985
• Verdura Inc. sold to Ward Landrigan.
Influences
• Royal Jewels
• Byzantine art
• The Maltese cross



Verger Frs

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
"FV" until 1911
1911-1935
Lozenge with "VF"
Verger Frs
e.1896

Paris
1879
• Ferdinand Verger worked for Vacheron Constantin (until 1938)
1896
• Ferdinand Verger registered his trademark.
1911
• Sons Henri and George joined the firm.
• Verger Freres
1935-1945
• Georges Verger et fils
1945-1979
• Verger et Co.
Manufactured for
Cartier
Lacloche Frères
Hermès
Van Cleef & Arpels
Tiffany & Co.
Gübelin
Boucheron



Verver

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
An "E and a "V" with an anchor between withing a chevron
Verver
e.1821
Metz
Paris
1821
• Pierre Paul Vever set up business in Metz.
1848
• Jean Jacques "Ernest" inherits the business.
1871
• Verver family leaves Metz as it becomes part of the German Empire.
• Ernest Vever bought the firm "Baugrand" in Paris (an established Parisian jeweler.)
1874
• Sons Paul and Henri become partners in the firm.
1876
• The firm registers their mark (used until 1912.)
1881
• Begin to produce in the Renaissance revival and Oriental styles.
1889
• Paris International Exposition - Jewelry Grand Prize.
1900
• World's Fair Grand Prize for their Art Nouveau Style
• Henri produced Sylvia - an Art Nouveau pendant of a butterfly-winged female (in the collection of the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris.)
Employed Outside artisans
• Etienne Tourette - Enameller.
1915
• Paul dies.
1921
• Henri hands the business to Andre & Pierre - Paul's sons.
1960
• Taken over by Jean Vever (grandson of Paul.)
1982
• Activities ceased.



Valadimir Makovsky

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Small black "M"
Valadimir Makovsky
(1884-1966)


Worked for
Cartier
Van Cleef & Arpels
Black, Starr & Frost
• Specializing in Chinese lacquer and inlaid stone work.



Wander & Co.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Wander
Wander France
Wander & Co.
e.1921
New York

• Jewelry featuring rough, precious and semi-precious carved stones.
• Maintained a branch in Paris during the 1960s & 1970s.



Waslikoff

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Stamped "W" between within a cartouche having a flat top and bottom and wiggly sides
M. Waslikoff & Sons
c.1920s
New York

Diamond and platinum jewelry specialists.
• Flexible platinum bracelets and earrings.



Watherston & Son

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Watherston & Son
e.1796
London

• Goldsmith
• Silversmith
1824
Brogden and Garland
1831
• Garland and Watherston
1841-1864
• Watherston and Brogden
1851
• Exhibitors at the Great Exhibition
1864
• Watherston and Son



Webb

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Stamped "Webb"
David Webb, Inc.
e.1948
New York

• Famous for his "Jeweled Jungle"
1948
• David Webb and Nina Silberstein opened David Webb, Inc. in New York.
1950s-1960s
• Bold flowers and organic forms.
1964
• Duke of Windsor buys a frog bracelet.
1970s
• Began producing more subtle designs to go with less flamboyant times.
1975
• David Webb dies and the Silberstein family continued production of his iconic designs.
2010
• Sold to Sima Ghadamian, Mark Emanuel and Robert Saidian.
• Continuing the tradition drawing on previously unproduced designs from the extensive archives and using the original molds.
• Gem materials and updated functional aspects (earring backs, etc.) distinguish the "old" from the "new."



Weingrill

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Weingrill
e.1879
Italy

• Goldsmiths
• Specializing in tubogas style chains and bracelets.



Wiese

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Stamp rhombus, with initials JW and stars above and below (through 1890)
1895 Rhombus with WIESE and stars above and below.
Wiese
e.1844
1923 closed
Berlin
Paris
1834
• Jules Wiese studied goldsmithing under Johann Georg Hossaeur in Berlin.
1839
• Moved to Paris and worked with Froment-Meurice.
1844
• Established workshop exclusively to produce for Froment-Meurice.
1849
• Paris World Exhibition medal with Froment-Meurice.
• Registers a jewelry maker's mark for his own company.
1855
• Paris World Exhibition First Class Medal for his own neo-classical jewelry.
1862
• London World Exhibition Gold Medal for neo-Renaissance jewelry.
1867
• Bronze medal for Archaeological-Revival jewelry.
1880
• Firm transfered to son, Louis Wiese.



Willmore

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Willmore
e.1773
1855 closed
London

• Silversmiths
• Snuff boxes featuring repoussé lids.



E. Wolfe & Co.

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
E. Wolfe & Co.
e.1850
London

• Bird & animal brooches, cocktail & engagement rings, bracelets, necklaces, earrings & cuff links.
19th Century
• Known for tiaras and crowns.
• Queen Alexandra's coronation crown (for Carrington & Co.)
Connaught Diamond Tiara.
• The Imperial Crown of India for Delhi Durbar.
• Cambridge Lover's Knot Tiara.
Russian Fringe Tiara (for Garrard & Co.)
Current Ownership
• Alan & Richard Cornelius.



Wolfers

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Wolfers




Yaeche

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Yaeche

Paris



Yard

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Yard
e.1922
Raymond Yard

New York
1898
• Messenger at Marcus & Co.
• Took jewelry making classes at night and trained at Marcus & Co. during the day.
1902
• Began to string pearls for Marcus & Co.
1906
• Promoted to Salesman working his way to General Manager
1920s
• Established his own firm.
• Created his own distinctive style.
1930s
• Extensive use of platinum.
• High quality gemstones i.e. Kashmir sapphires and Burma rubies.
1940s
• War years resulted in a change to yellow gold and palladium with semiprecious stones.
1950s
• Return to platinum.
• Used some imported French yellow gold mountings for brooches and bracelets.
1958
• Raymond Yard retired. He turned the firm over to 3 of his employees.
1960s
• Moved the firm to 580 Fifth Ave.
• Introduced baguettes set with claws.
• More French mountings used.
• Classic Yard styles and new styles made the firm prosperous.
1970s
• Abstract designs, metal featured.
1989
• Firm taken over by Robert Gibson Jr. (son of one of the 3 Yard employee successors.)



Zanettin

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Zanettin




Zolotas

Maker's Mark Name/Period Location Specialty
Zolotas
e.1895
Efthimios Zolotas

Athens, Greece
• Ancient Byzantine jewelry motifs.
1900
• Opened his "Experimental Laboratory" on Aeolou St., Athens
1910
• Created jewels and tiaras for the Greek Royal family to wear to the coronation of King George V of England.
1960s
• 18k yellow gold historical Greek designs.
• Celebrity & aristocratic clientele.
1970s
• Moved the business to 10 Panepistimiou Ave., where it remains today
• Opened in Paris.
• 22k gold with texture and colored stones.
Lang Antiques
Lang Antiques